Just do be aware of that positive post. It does not HAVE to break. I've had both of mine for months with a few builds in each and have not had any problems.
Like I said in a previous post. Just snug it up until the wire doesn't move on the outside of the clamp when straightening out the coil. This should be no problem with a lightweight mtl coil especially.
The one I broke I had done a stack of builds on all with fairly fine wire, 28-30g, I "thought" I was fairly careful with it, I was aware of the issues with the genuine version... I can be a bit heavy handed at times and using the allen/hex key it's fairly easy to go overboard due to the leverage it provides... I've been thinking next time I rebuild I might switch to the included straight slot screws so I cant over-tighten..
There's so little metal to the sides of the hole
through the positive post it's no surprise they're fragile, I understand why it is like that, if they made the post any heftier you wouldn't be able to fit a 3mm coil in there..
Better to be a little too tight with the wicking than a little too loose though. It CAN gurgle if you leave spaces around the wicking ports in the cap. I think I said before, imho, they should have made the tops of the ports round instead of squared off like that.
When I first built the xeta I used the tall screws to partly block off the wick ports but this seemed to cause gurgles and flooding after refilling, it was hard to get the cotton fluffed all around the screw to stop the
juice flooding into the chamber when the boro was opened, I ended up going back to the short screws because it was easier to get the cotton to fill/seal the port without a screw poking up into the area... This is also why I've stuck with 3mm
coils so I can get as much cotton as possible in there...
