SXK Billet box...

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Dusty6

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Anyone tried the Truss bridge yet?

Yes. First Impressions... Check Atomizer.

For me on my 2019 authentic Billet box, it works sometimes if I really crank down on it but ends up going to Check Atomizer after a bit. Not comfortable with that. Havent tried it on my 2020 because I feel like if I crank it down too much it will damage it.

Works a bit better on my SXK billet box because the positive is raised up a bit more. Maybe wider as well.

Its a tighter DL which I dont mind, and will let you know about flavor once my cotton breaks in a bit more.
 

Pigs

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Yes. First Impressions... Check Atomizer.

For me on my 2019 authentic Billet box, it works sometimes if I really crank down on it but ends up going to Check Atomizer after a bit. Not comfortable with that. Havent tried it on my 2020 because I feel like if I crank it down too much it will damage it.

Works a bit better on my SXK billet box because the positive is raised up a bit more. Maybe wider as well.

Its a tighter DL which I dont mind, and will let you know about flavor once my cotton breaks in a bit more.
Thanks @Dusty6 . Probably an obvious question but has this happened on more than one build?

Also when you say a tighter DL, how would you compare it to the Xeta or the Vapesnail (both wide open)?
 

Dusty6

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No, just one build so far. The connection is fine on the 510 adapter, and most of the time in the SXK Billet. It has something to do with the Positive connection on the Truss.

I dont have the Xeta or VapeSnail. I do have a vape shell. I would compare it as a little bit tighter than the 2nd largest airflow insert.
 

Pigs

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No, just one build so far. The connection is fine on the 510 adapter, and most of the time in the SXK Billet. It has something to do with the Positive connection on the Truss.

I dont have the Xeta or VapeSnail. I do have a vape shell. I would compare it as a little bit tighter than the 2nd largest airflow insert.
Ok interesting. Any way you could take a close up photo of the positive pin of the Truss?
 

Dusty6

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Here is the bottom of the Truss where I think the connection problems happen. Its got a huge bore in it where it doesnt get a good connection with my authentic billet boxes.

20201124_1y.jpg


Here is a pic of the positive connection of my SXK Billet box. This is raised up and maybe a bit wider than the authentic Billets. On my authentic billet boxes the positive connection is pretty much flush.
20201124.jpg


This is why I think it seems to work better on my SXK version but not my authentic. Also it could mean the Positive pin thing on the Truss was made too short and thats why I gotta crank down on it. I could try unscrewing it a bit but that may also lead to connection issues.
 
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gsmit1

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Here is the bottom of the Truss where I think the connection problems happen. Its got a huge bore in it where it doesnt get a good connection with my authentic billet boxes.

View attachment 918477

Here is a pic of the positive connection of my SXK Billet box. This is raised up and maybe a bit wider than the authentic Billets. On my authentic billet boxes the positive connection is pretty much flush.
View attachment 918479

This is why I think it seems to work better on my SXK version but not my authentic. Also it could mean the Positive pin thing on the Truss was made too short and thats why I gotta crank down on it. I could try unscrewing it a bit but that may also lead to connection issues.
Can you post a pic of the top of the boro with the Truss in it right after you take it out of the authentic BB?

I have a possible suspicion.
 

gsmit1

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Yea I think I get what you're thinkin. But after I crank down on it enough to make a connection it pulls the atomizer up when I unscrew it . My phone doesnt really want to focus

I think its the bridge that is too short? View attachment 918481
It's tough to tell in that pic, but it does look like it's protruding out of there a bit. I had a situation a good while back where some of the chimneys on some of my rbas didn't protrude from the top edge of the hole in the boro and I was having severe connection problems.

See HERE and the post after it.
 
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gsmit1

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will a non DNA SXK BB style fit authentic DNA 60 board, ??
Yes, it can be done, but it seems to me if you're looking to get an Evolv driven SXK BB, it would be easier and probably less expensive to just get one.

Unless they are actually unavailable anywhere, or if you have a dead 70 watt version. OR have a 70 watt version and just want to put a DNA board in it.

UNLESS :) you're just a tinker and like tinkering :)
 

gsmit1

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3F have a few of the rat black DNA clones left on sale

Buy Evolv DNA60 SXK BB Style 60W AIO VW Black Box Mod Kit w/ USB Port
They seem to randomly pop up here and there the last several months while the 70 watt Ares version is always available. I theorize that it has to do with SXK being able to get their hands on DNA 60 boards.

I grabbed one last time. It has the logos on it. Pretty disturbing. The logos are dead on accurate and are actually a coating of some sort. Not stickers. Pretty good quality. SXK is going a bit overboard with their cloning zeal I think. I was happy with em without the logos. They even did the shallow slot for the authenticity sticker.
20201002_155803_cr.jpg
 

Pigs

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They seem to randomly pop up here and there the last several months while the 70 watt Ares version is always available. I theorize that it has to do with SXK being able to get their hands on DNA 60 boards.

I grabbed one last time. It has the logos on it. Pretty disturbing. The logos are dead on accurate and are actually a coating of some sort. Not stickers. Pretty good quality. SXK is going a bit overboard with their cloning zeal I think. I was happy with em without the logos. They even did the shallow slot for the authenticity sticker.
View attachment 920355
How's the G10 quality of the newer clones' doors? My older 70W clones had pretty rough G10 panels (compared to the authentic) til I worked on them. I'd prefer SXK put more effort into the panels than the logo.
 

gsmit1

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How's the G10 quality of the newer clones' doors? My older 70W clones had pretty rough G10 panels (compared to the authentic) til I worked on them. I'd prefer SXK put more effort into the panels than the logo.
I couldn't get a good shot with the lighting at the moment. It made em look all frosty which is not the way they look in real life.

They seem pretty clean to me. I'd have to dig out my old ones to compare directly. I will say that that little bit of play that was always in the battery side door is gone. The older ones always had this little bit of play if you push down on it and moved it around in a circle. The last 2 from the late runs have none at all.

Then again I didn't try em in the old mod so maybe they tightened up the mod lol. Overall the build quality on the last 2 from this year with the logo seem a hair better than the last 3 from early last year, which was already good.
 
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