This is copied and pasted from another site to save myself some typing
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Ok, here's a good one. This is all SXK stuff.
I was having some trouble getting a consistent solid connection when using the regular 510 keys. Resistance jumping, new coil?, immediate "temperature protected" message, "check atomizer" etc. The only thing that would alleviate this (kinda) was to REALLY crank it down when putting it in. Wasn't having this problem with the brass JMK integrated tip. If I took that tip off and put a key in, it would ask me if it's a new coil and give a significantly different resistance than the always consistent one I would get with the JMK tip.
I went through several possible explanations for this, but figured out that it's because the shape of the connection point on the JMK tip sat perfect in the hole on the top of the boro where the
rba chimney would sit just about flush, if not a tiny barely perceptible hair below flush.
The 510 key has a narrower bottom protruding piece with an o ring that goes into the chimney and the shoulder just above that is what closes the circuit. That's where the problem is. The hole in the plastic boro is cut precisely straight in. The threaded shoulder on the key sits on the edge of the hole in the boro so that it barely makes contact with the chimney. That's why cranking it down would force that contact which still wasn't great and doing that has to go hard on the threads in the body of the
mod.
What I did was use a round stone attachment in my rotary tool, on the slowest speed, and ever so slightly grind that sharp corner edge on the top hole in one of my boros to a sort of tiny countersunk bevel, hopefully allowing the contact surface on the key to sit in there and make better contact with the chimney. NOT down as far the o ring though. I also rinsed everything off of course and re-lubed the gasket and o rings.
Problem solved!
Before, like I said, if I took the JMK tip off and put a regular key in, it would ask about the coil, change resistance and after some hoop jumping it would work for a while and then give me the "check atomizer" message and I'd have to fiddle with getting it working again.
With the slightly modified boro, I took the JMK tip off, put the key in with normal tightness and it didn't even know I'd changed them out. Fired on the first try with the same resistance it had before and it's been working normally ever since.
This will now be SOP on any SXK boros I have. Takes like 2 minutes.
