SXK Billet box...

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charlie1465

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Yes I looked at them when I first started too. But I didn't get them. I figured I had enough rebuildables for my BBs. But I am still curious how they vape. :)

I'll let you know when i've built on it. Was wondering whether it could be used to carry the euc coils :)
 
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gpjoe

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Ok...just bought the A tank and some EUC coils and this little thing which works in the BB apparently...

$2.79 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Coil Head for Atlantis Clearomizer - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I picked up two of these and they do fit - it's an RBA for Aspire Atlantis coils. One of mine was shorted and I had to re-align the posts and re-tighten the center post. As I recall, it's a tight fit inside these RBAs and though it comes with a couple of pre-made coils, building a new coil from scratch is probably an adventure. The Kanger RBAs work really well in my experience and look to be waaaay easier to build.
 

charlie1465

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Ok....I've built the stock RBA which is, I believe, essentially the same as the Kanger subtank mini. It's a bit fiddly but it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.

Really nice vape with excellent flavour and draw is fine for me wide open :)

I'm really pleased with my resin panels they look excellent imo :) I changed the fire button for a brass version so it's matchy, matchy...love this thing.

20190420_184655.jpg

20190420_184758.jpg
 

Nailz

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    Ok....I've built the stock RBA which is, I believe, essentially the same as the Kanger subtank mini. It's a bit fiddly but it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.

    Really nice vape with excellent flavour and draw is fine for me wide open :)

    I'm really pleased with my resin panels they look excellent imo :) I changed the fire button for a brass version so it's matchy, matchy...love this thing.

    View attachment 810383
    View attachment 810385

    Looks really good, just need to find a drip tip to match the rest of it now ;)
     

    charlie1465

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    First build report :)

    Ok, i've built a 0.850hm clapton coil (3mm ID) on the kanger subtank RBA included with the BB and I am really impressed. It's a very slightly restricted direct lung draw which i've realised that I like a lot....it's kind of slower with more time to savour the flavour!

    Talking of flavour i'm really impressed also...it has more flavour than some of my RDA's....wow.

    I can see why you decided @BillW50 to get several more and stick with the BB :)

    A love affair has started :D

    Build was fine for several days but have been getting an intermittent check atomiseur so am going to open it up today and see if i can isolate the problem...I must admit it was difficult snipping the ends to make sure there was none poking out to far from the deck....it's possibly that or maybe it needs a re-tighten after a few days heat.
     

    BillW50

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    Build was fine for several days but have been getting an intermittent check atomiseur so am going to open it up today and see if i can isolate the problem...
    One thing I don't like about the Kanger RBA and bridge is when unscrewing the BB key, that o-ring grabs the chimney and wants to pull out with the key. Not good when the tank has juice in it. I fixed this by using JMK Tips that doesn't have an o-ring so this doesn't happen. Others have simply removed the o-ring on the key. Although the other bridges and atomizers doesn't seem to be a problem with the o-ring.

    The intermittent thing, the bridge will move up and down in the tank a bit. Make sure its sticking at least higher than the top of the tank. Of course, cranking down the key should align everything anyway. While the key is tight, you could move the tank up and down a little and that should insure you're grabbing metal and not the plastic tank.

    Another thing about the RBA and the Kanger bridge is that it is a tad short to reach the key to the bottom connection. If the chimney was just a tad longer this problem would go away. Some have purchased third party keys without an end stop. So they screw down further. But for the money, I just use something else besides the Kanger stuff and the problem disappears.
     

    charlie1465

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    One thing I don't like about the Kanger RBA and bridge is when unscrewing the BB key, that o-ring grabs the chimney and wants to pull out with the key. Not good when the tank has juice in it. I fixed this by using JMK Tips that doesn't have an o-ring so this doesn't happen. Others have simply removed the o-ring on the key. Although the other bridges and atomizers doesn't seem to be a problem with the o-ring.

    The intermittent thing, the bridge will move up and down in the tank a bit. Make sure its sticking at least higher than the top of the tank. Of course, cranking down the key should align everything anyway. While the key is tight, you could move the tank up and down a little and that should insure you're grabbing metal and not the plastic tank.

    Another thing about the RBA and the Kanger bridge is that it is a tad short to reach the key to the bottom connection. If the chimney was just a tad longer this problem would go away. Some have purchased third party keys without an end stop. So they screw down further. But for the money, I just use something else besides the Kanger stuff and the problem disappears.

    Thanks Bill, that's useful. I'm just about to take it apart so i will look closely at it as I do and see whether I can learn anything.

    Mines got a good few mls of the chimney protruding from the tank top so that's been fine and the tank is sitting right down on its legs onto the chip casing leaving a little gap at the top. It has been working fine apart from the recent check atty which may be a bad connection with the positive but I don't think so :)

    It's more or less empty now so it won't be a problem if the bridge gets dragged up with the o ring.
     

    BillW50

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    Mines got a good few mls of the chimney protruding from the tank top so that's been fine and the tank is sitting right down on its legs onto the chip casing leaving a little gap at the top.
    All of mine, the atomizer is lower than the four legs of the tank, so they wobble a bit sitting on the desk. But it doesn't really matter as long as both ends are making electrical connection. Remember on the BB, the top part (chimney) is the ground connection for the coil. So without a good connection up there, you will get no atomizer.
     

    charlie1465

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    OK, just dismantled the Kanger RBA. Nothing was loose so maybe there was a problem as @BillW50 said and the RBA is barely long enough which was what was causing the 'check atty' warning.

    Anyway switched it out with the Vapeshell and it vapes great again. It's a little bit noisier than the Kanger....that's wide open without the airflow adjuster on. Really good flavour and a relatively pleasant build although i did have more trouble catching one side of my coil leads under the screw.

    It's definitely a good idea to keep your o rings juiced up :)

    EDIT. And square rings :)
     
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    chanelvaps

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    Uggh..
    I thought I wanted to join the SXK BB club. Heard it was a great vape. I ordered this:
    $65.25 SXK BB 70W Styled TC VW APV Mod Kit - 5ml / 1*18650 / 1-70W / 200-600'F at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
    I got it last week and set it up last night. I build a .60 coil and used it in the Kanger RBA. Not the best coil I have built but it worked for a first go. Figured I would make a better one today. For some reason my red square oring/seal got compromised while sliding the glass door. I felt I had it back in place but it still buckled a bit at the top. Did not affect the vape and the vape is good.
    Woke up this morning to a giant mess as the whole thing has leaked. Tried to read back through the thread and cannot find much about the leaking.
    Any help as to where it leaks from. Something I have done wrong?
     
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