SXK Doggystyle 2k18

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stols001

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I want to try it! I wish it was topfill too, though.

Honestly, I don't mind bottom fill tanks and none of my topfill tanks leak even a bit (that's really more about wicking technique I honestly think) but they most certainly don't.

Some bottom fills are fine. My Kabukis are easy as pie. It's just le doggystle, which likes to make my life HARD is one of the most difficult bottom fills around if you ask me. I mean, I can never seem to find the right sized object to "jam" into the dang airhole, or the exact right angle to kind of separate the top and the bottom it's a whole annoying process Every Time.

I know there are mystery doggystle users who don't have that issue and etc., but I always seem to have to make hard labor out of it.

It's really the ONLY bottom fill tank that gives me that amount of grief. It's just how it is for me and le doggy-- no PAIN, no GAIN.

It's an awesome tank but seriously it took me like 3 months and two orders to get that sucker up and running and I am STILL convinced my first one was possessed. LOL.

Anna
 

sk25411

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@stols001 from my experience, if you need to put ANYTHING in the air hole to separate the tank from base, you are tightening the tank too much.

The acrylic tanks are much easier to get on and off, and only need to be a tiny bit tightened down.

Never had any issues after I stopped making it too tight
 

smoked25years

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@stols001 from my experience, if you need to put ANYTHING in the air hole to separate the tank from base, you are tightening the tank too much.

The acrylic tanks are much easier to get on and off, and only need to be a tiny bit tightened down.

Never had any issues after I stopped making it too tight

I think there's a difference between sticking something in the AFC to keep it from rotating freely and needing leverage because it is too tight.

The AFC rotates freely. You can hold onto the threaded 510 or remove the AFC but neither is ideal to me. I hold onto AFC ring when I remove the tank. Sometimes the AFC pops off accidentally. Sometimes I'm lucky and lightly squeezing the AFC ring is enough to keep it from spinning independently of the deck. Sometimes I just stick a precision screwdriver in the AFC since I don't want to be bothered by it.

It's one of the quirks of the (underengineered) design.
 

rifky

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Uh, I´m confused @rifky ... so your picture shows a real SXK clone of the newly released Animodz doggystyle 2K18 ??? Or is the picture showing the very expensive (160 Euros) original? I can´t believe the clone is out so fast...

I take from sxk pic. But dont know the truth. Btw on FT already show up
 
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smoked25years

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@smoked25years i still don’t get it. I turn my mod upside down, and rotate the tank section freely, and it comes right off the base (that’s still attached to mod). Fill, reattach, easy peasy.

The tank BARELY needs to be tightened to the base.

The difference is that you leave it attached to the mod. I always remove atomizers before I take them apart.
 
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Ryedan

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Yup I probably am and I wish I could find a way out of that. Muscle memory and all.

Anna

Here's what I do to help me with that. Whenever I screw the tank on the mod I use a long nose plier with the noses (new vaping technical term there ;)) in the wicking slots where the wicks go into, and tighten the atty a bit onto the mod. This atty is the only one I do that with. After that, as long as I go easy on tightening the plastic tank onto the Doggy I can consistently unscrew it with no problems same as @sk25411 does.

The difference is that you leave it attached to the mod. I always remove atomizers before I take them apart.

That just wouldn't work for me with the Doggy. Thinking about it now, I estimate I take the tank off every few months to clean the 510 connector. That's fine by me as this way there is minimal wear and tear on that 510 connection.
 
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smoked25years

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Here's what I do to help me with that. Whenever I screw the tank on the mod I use a long nose plier with the noses (new vaping technical term there ;)) in the wicking slots where the wicks go into, and tighten the atty a bit onto the mod. This atty is the only one I do that with. After that, as long as I go easy on tightening the plastic tank onto the Doggy I can consistently unscrew it with no problems same as @sk25411 does.



That just wouldn't work for me with the Doggy. Thinking about it now, I estimate I take the tank off every few months to clean the 510 connector. That's fine by me as this way there is minimal wear and tear on that 510 connection.

If it's working for you, that is the important thing. Lots of different ways to do things. My preferences are very different. I never over tighten the 510. And I completely disassemble and thoroughly clean all of my atomizers frequently.
 

Ken B

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I can see that it may be possible to use the new top-fill tank with the 2k16 bases, but a) it does introduce a second thread to cause extra potential wear in the PC tank, and b) I can only see PC 2k18 tanks being available and not (so far) any acrylics.
I think they have also missed an opportunity to swap the Deck screws to cross-head type, and maybe even put a stop on that air-flow ring. Be nice to get a choice of central airflow holes too. Hope you all enjoy the new tanks anyway, but I think I might stick to my original 2k16s (when I get them)
 

smoked25years

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I can see that it may be possible to use the new top-fill tank with the 2k16 bases, but a) it does introduce a second thread to cause extra potential wear in the PC tank, and b) I can only see PC 2k18 tanks being available and not (so far) any acrylics.
I think they have also missed an opportunity to swap the Deck screws to cross-head type, and maybe even put a stop on that air-flow ring. Be nice to get a choice of central airflow holes too. Hope you all enjoy the new tanks anyway, but I think I might stick to my original 2k16s (when I get them)

I agree about the stop for the air flow. But I couldn't care less about Phillips or slotted screws. People only like them because they already have the drivers. Phillips cams out which is ideal for power tools (so you don't accidentally over tighten) but slipping is not at all desirable for precision screws turned by hand tools. An allen type screw will never slip. Unfortunately people complain when RBAs use them because they don't have the drivers. But a high quality Czech or German-made Wera or Wiha allen driver only costs $4. Well worth the few bucks imo.

524859.jpg
 
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ricks

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Interesting, but it's 13mm longer than the 2K16 and has the same 3 1/2 ml capacity. Still a bit shorter than the Aqua V2, but it's getting close. Plus the 2K16 has never leaked in my pocket and I find it very easy to refill. Unless I'm missing something I think I'm going to pass on this one.
What's longer???
 

ricks

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Well heck ricks, for some reason at the time I thought there was a height difference between them but I just checked FT and they are pretty much the same.

Thanks for asking or I would have continued to believe that :thumb:
I think some show the height with and without the drip tip??? That's what I thought you may have meant. :thumb:
 
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Ryedan

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I think some show the height with and without the drip tip??? That's what I thought you may have meant. :thumb:

It might have been, but after having another look at it I really think they are the same size atty. Best thing will be to get first hand info from folks once they start getting these and we can be sure.

Going to see if I can still modify that post.

ETA: Nope, it's been too long. I hate when that happens!
 

rifky

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I hear 2k18 is not tight as 2k16 draw and its a Restricted DL. But I read somewhere if you have a 2k16 SXK you can replace the center pin and airhole block with 2k18. Is anybody here try this methode? It will be great if 2k18 have a tight MTL like SXK 2k16. Pls share here if you already try that. Is the 510 pin and block are complatible?
 
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