Taifun GT Discusion!

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bapgood

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Thanks for posting good news and it was less than the one from FT which was ordered 18 Nov! going to go pick up the FC TGT in a few mins, might even build it when i get back. So the FT SS replacement arrived and its damaged cant fit the the chimney cap to the deck, had a look and the whole deck is slanted to one side. So totally useless as you can't screw the top cap / chimney tube into the chimney cap. (one coil post is higher to)

ws6f.jpg


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While this kind of sucks! It shouldn't be to hard to fix.

My suggestion....
Pull out the tubes so you have a flat deck, then find a setup base or something else flat and square that can go on the bottom so your not wobbling on the 510, then find something you can place/hold over the deck....like a piece of wood....something brass or aluminum is even better....this is just so the next step doesn't mar the deck, then find a nice solid surface like a concrete floor and give the give the deck a nice solid deliberate whack with a hammer on the high side....not super hard but not hesitant. Hopefully it will finish pressing in nice and square.

If this doesn't work you might try knocking the deck out from the 510 (remove screw and insulator), and then try pressing it back in straight.

An arbor press would be better and easier if you have one. A little cheap arbor press comes in very handy at times.

Ok now I'm going to check the two I got the other day to see if they are straight.
 

Rattman

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While this kind of sucks! It shouldn't be to hard to fix.

My suggestion....
Pull out the tubes so you have a flat deck, then find a setup base or something else flat and square that can go on the bottom so your not wobbling on the 510, then find something you can place/hold over the deck....like a piece of wood....something brass or aluminum is even better....this is just so the next step doesn't mar the deck, then find a nice solid surface like a concrete floor and give the give the deck a nice solid deliberate whack with a hammer on the high side....not super hard but not hesitant. Hopefully it will finish pressing in nice and square.

If this doesn't work you might try knocking the deck out from the 510 (remove screw and insulator), and then try pressing it back in straight.

An arbor press would be better and easier if you have one. A little cheap arbor press comes in very handy at times.

Ok now I'm going to check the two I got the other day to see if they are straight.

good ideas bapgood, I also think two sockets would work too. One on the bottom and on top(just to clear the two posts)
 

bapgood

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Yes what rattam said.....great minds think a like.....this is what I did....the posts don't just slide out like the authentic.....so I used a 7/16" socket to fit over the posts....a metric size might actually fit better, but I had a 7/16" setting on the bench and my metric is all out in the shop....anyway here are pics, you can see the socket slightly marred the deck but not bad.






 

eLCruz

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Yes what rattam said.....great minds think a like.....this is what I did....the posts don't just slide out like the authentic.....so I used a 7/16" socket to fit over the posts....a metric size might actually fit better, but I had a 7/16" setting on the bench and my metric is all out in the shop....anyway here are pics, you can see the socket slightly marred the deck but not bad.







A vise could work too, if you go slow and steady. What do you think Bapgood?

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tiburonfirst

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ok, so i have been waiting for sunshine to take a decent picture of my 2 bases. alas, i've not have had much luck ;) and once again, here's bap to the rescue! unless i'm completely wrong this picture:

6898C5F9-9685-4642-BE52-A518B57B97B1_zpsntxhioj8.jpg


shows the deck plate with brass underneath - you can see the spray pattern. with the replacement base the deck plate is completely smooth.
 

bapgood

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ok, so i have been waiting for sunshine to take a decent picture of my 2 bases. alas, i've not have had much luck ;) and once again, here's bap to the rescue! unless i'm completely wrong this picture:

6898C5F9-9685-4642-BE52-A518B57B97B1_zpsntxhioj8.jpg


shows the deck plate with brass underneath - you can see the spray pattern. with the replacement base the deck plate is completely smooth.


That's actually a ss base :D
 

BabyCrusher

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@ BabyCrusher....how far apart do you have it?

@ DW....I'll see what I can come up with

As far as it goes. It never gets tight and throws ohms all over. I tinker with it at work for hours at a time and never get the center to not move again. If it needs pressed I can do that but I don't see at all what is pressed where when it's essentially just two screws. This thing could have been designed differently although guess I wasn't supposed to take it down this far. Course.. Have to replace the deck regardless from brass to ss

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

bapgood

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As far as it goes. It never gets tight and throws ohms all over. I tinker with it at work for hours at a time and never get the center to not move again. If it needs pressed I can do that but I don't see at all what is pressed where when it's essentially just two screws. This thing could have been designed differently although guess I wasn't supposed to take it down this far. Course.. Have to replace the deck regardless from brass to ss

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

I'm starting to think maybe the brass disk under the the atty deck that the center pin and one of the coil posts screws into, that the threads are stripped out for the center screw. The replacement deck is actually the entire complete bottom of the atty, so swapping it out it is easy. No pressing or etc required.
 

mbolack

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I have the opposite problem. I have a Rainbow Heaven GT clone, and even with the tube pulled out, I can't pull enough air through this to keep my ears from popping! I am wondering if I should think about drilling out the air hole on the outside. Anybody have any suggestions for me?


While I liked the increased air flow just fine with the 1.2 mm ID tube removed the flavor diminished too much so I compromised and put in a 1.5. The little bugger is stainless steel so it's no that easily damaged.
 
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