Taifun GT Discusion!

[BabyCrusher]

I'm starting to think maybe the brass disk under the the atty deck that the center pin and one of the coil posts screws into, that the threads are stripped out for the center screw. The replacement deck is actually the entire complete bottom of the atty, so swapping it out it is easy. No pressing or etc required.

What order do you tighten the brass piece in? I have from bottom to top plastic spacer-brass-really tiny plastic spacer-deck

If I tighten the center screw even to where it stops to be flush with the top of the brass piece, it's still not long enough to make contact with my device.

All I've been looking for online is a picture of these parts broke down and layer out in order of assembly. Yet to find anything. Why is that so much to ask sigh


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[bapgood]

So you have knocked out the deck and have the brass disk loose and etc?

Something like this





If that's the case then I might think you don't have it pressed back together all the way.


But posting a picture for us to see so we can better help might be easier than beating up the internet looking for the answer.

 

[BabyCrusher]

That's exactly how it is. If that needs pressed then it was never seated to begin with.. I would take a picture or a video but it's not apart right now and I'm not feeling the greatest(everyone getting sick)
If the deck needs pressed into the cup.. :: facepalm

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[dwcraig1]

Does the deck have to be in any particular position, like air holes lined up, or just any spot when pressed together?

 

[bapgood]

So it goes base, big plastic washer, brass disk, small plastic washer, main deck....and then it gets pressed together.

I put a dab of super glue on the plastic washers and then stuck them to the brass disk, that way down the road when your trying line up the 510 screw and the coil post screw your not fighting the washers.

 

[bapgood]

Does the deck have to be in any particular position, like air holes lined up, or just any spot when pressed together?

I didn't pay attention when I took it apart or put it back together....however it ended up seems to work fine

So I don't think it really matters, but it might make some sense to line up the air holes.

 

[eLCruz]

I had the brass deck from FT open like that and took the opportunity to better insulate th brass disk like this…

I added 2 layers of electrical tape here to ensure no shorts. Then screwed the brass disk to base using the center pin screw then put it in an aluminum atty stand and put a piece of 1/4 inch wood on build deck and used a bench vise to SLOWLY press the deck back into the base. Then I used a pin to find the + post screw hole by poking and probing . So far, so good :sly:

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[BabyCrusher]

This Lil guy helped me fix it.

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[dwcraig1]

View attachment 298391

This Lil guy helped me fix it.

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More.......................

 

[BabyCrusher]

More? of?
This lil guy was reference to the vice. Which isn't little at all

 

[dwcraig1]

More? of?
This lil guy was reference to the vice. Which isn't little at all

More about what was wrong, how it got that way, easy/hard to fix, ect.

 

[BabyCrusher]

All that was wrong was that the deck needed pressed into the cup. Had no idea heh.

It's sitting over there now.. Being vaped from time to time. Earned it's keep... For now

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[eLCruz]

View attachment 298391

This Lil guy helped me fix it.

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Now thats a "Baby Crusher" :thumbup: Ha!

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[the4thpower3]

Does the insulator (holder) for the draw tube come out (easily)?
I pulled the draw tube out. I like it better - but I want to see if I like it even airier.
I didn't try pulling the insulator out yet. Just want to see if anyone else has.

 

[cpomeray]

Does the insulator (holder) for the draw tube come out (easily)?
I pulled the draw tube out. I like it better - but I want to see if I like it even airier.
I didn't try pulling the insulator out yet. Just want to see if anyone else has.

I pulled one on a GT that had an unusually tight draw. Turned out the end of the insulator tube wasn't completely open. Anyway, removing it pretty much destroyed it so I wouldn't remove another without a spare in hand.

 

[the4thpower3]

I pulled mine out with a curved pick - rather than trying to grip it with pliers.
I like the airflow much better now.
I did the same to my TFGS.

 

[dwcraig1]

On my genuine GS the plastic tube was trying to come out with the air tube when I changed it to the larger one, I had to hold it in while I pulled out the tube or at least I thought I needed to.
How are you liking the air flow that way or do you want even more?

 

[the4thpower3]

On my GS - the plastic insulator/holder came out with the drawtube.
On my GT it was tight in the base.

I think the airflow is a little looser on my FT TFGT now compared to my R91 with the adjuster screw backed all the way out.
It's sort of hard for me to tell because I'm vaping a strong cinnamon in my R91 and I can't hit that the same way as I'm pulling on the TFGT with the light fruit flavor in it.

I'm gonna work on getting my SS tank to fit this FT TFGT so I can run my cinnamon in it and make a better comparison to my R91.

Eitherway I like the airlfow better on the GS and GT without the tube and insulator in.
I can't take monster cloud lung hits on it, but semi-tight lung hits. And can still mouth hit without having to take really long tight drags.

I just realized how hard it is to describe the variances in draw/airflow.

 

[dwcraig1]

I'm gonna work on getting my SS tank to fit this FT TFGT so I can run my cinnamon in it and make a better comparison to my R91.

Is the SS tank for an original TGT or is it from something else?

 

[the4thpower3]

Is the SS tank for an original TGT or is it from something else?

It was from FT. Ordered same time as the GT.