Taifun GT Discusion!

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Do the black or gold ones from FT have the narrow wick slots? Or the "regular" sized ones?

Can't say that I've noticed the difference. The gold one does seem to have a good tight bottom chamber o-ring, which I like as the loose ones do have to be replaced. If there are differences in the slot size (and I accept that there are since you are asking), I haven't noticed them or had any problems with them, though I have read about many who choose to widen their slots, though I've often wondered why. I use a 1/16" ID tmc micro coil, and don't need a wide slot with the KGD. What is the difference?

 

[zipflint]

I've had to widen a couple of mine, the last two that I bought from focal. I use a 2.4mm bit to make my micro coils, so I guess they are a bit on the larger side. Here's a before 'n after comparison:

before:

after:

Rather sloppy, since I did this free-hand. And I should've made them slightly wider and more uniform.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

I've had to widen a couple of mine, the last two that I bought from focal. I use a 2.4mm bit to make my micro coils, so I guess they are a bit on the larger side. Here's a before 'n after comparison:

before:

after:

Rather sloppy, since I did this free-hand. And I should've made them slightly wider and more uniform.

I see. Thank you for that explanation. I have, in the past, had problems with leaking at the slots when I did not have a large enough wick, and before I used the KGD. I don't think I would want a larger slot. Also, I have found that I can't achieve "The Effect" that is possible with tensioned micro coils in diameters larger than about .055". Maybe it's just my builds or something.

 

[dwcraig1]

I set up one from Angelcigs a few days ago for a friend, I Dremeled the slots to match the size of the original TGT. But there was another minor problem, the draw tube that came installed was 1.2 mm and the extra one included was the 1.0 mm one so I fashioned a 1.5 mm id one from a clearomizer air tube like I did for my original when I first got it.
(the originals come with 1.2's, FT clones come with 1.5's)

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

I set up one from Angelcigs a few days ago for a friend, I Dremeled the slots to match the size of the original TGT. But there was another minor problem, the draw tube that came installed was 1.2 mm and the extra one included was the 1.0 mm one so I fashioned a 1.5 mm id one from a clearomizer air tube like I did for my original when I first got it.
(the originals come with 1.2's, FT clones come with 1.5's)

I'm sure that opening up the airflow would increase performance. I do have the larger diameter tubes, but have not done this yet. I still like the vape just fine, particularly compared to my previous affinity with carto tanks. The Taifun and the Kayfun have both been real game changers for me, though I am very aware that they can both be improved. However, I have a number of drippers for those times when I just want to blast out the big clouds, damn the flavor, which I do feel like occasionally. I chain vape, so I do find the Taifun, as-is, to be an excellent performer. Once one gets a proper micro coil and wick in there, my 5 ml tanks last me a good half day of vaping. Usually one or one and a half refills per day, a new wick every one or two days, a new coil maybe every two, three or four days, and vaping has never been better for me. Could be better, but I really like as little effort as possible to get up and running. You've seen my coiler. Great coils and fast, fast, fast. KGD was as good as everyone raves about, with improved, clean wonderful flavor and wicking. Pretty happy these days and have reduced spending this year to only 20% of what I spent the first year of full-time vaping. Me likee. I'll bet if you keep telling how improved airflow makes all the difference in the world, that I'll have to get off my .... and make that change, but, for now, pretty darn satisfied. Can't wait for my Eye. I may be in a new vaping Nirvana soon. We shall see.

By the way, I had such a bad voltage drop developing on my Provari, that I sent it in for repairs last week. After their examination, they told me yesterday that I needed a new board with choice of LED color (Blue), and a good cleaning. So, $65 yesterday to get that back. Illustrates again the extreme importance of backups. Though I have a Semo, I also have two backup Provari's, so I haven't been affected at all, and will have my Silver Mini back in like new condition sometime next week, That's it for vaping update. Ciao.

 

[dwcraig1]

I don't think you'll ever hear me recommending removing the air tube and drilling the base.
At least not unless other modifications are made that would require more air like extreme wattage, ect.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

I don't think you'll ever hear me recommending removing the air tube and drilling the base.
At least not unless other modifications are made that would require more air like extreme wattage, ect.

Fair enough. I won't add it to my To Do List, lol. I'm not an extreme wattage guy, and I already have the 1.5 ml tubes from Smoker Store, that I ordered with my original GT's. In fact, I believe I have all three sizes of their tubes, as I recall. I'll have to check the vaping chest.

 

[chanelvaps]

Bought a second Taifun from Fasttech recently. This time I bought "A" (few dollars more) I have built 2 diff coils on it and both times the OHMS change and go from random numbers. Start out at 1.7, next thing I know it is 2.1, within minutes up to 3.1, back down to 1.7. Just to be on the safe side I changed devices to a VAMO and same thing. Any idea what is wrong?

 

[dwcraig1]

Bought a second Taifun from Fasttech recently. This time I bought "A" (few dollars more) I have built 2 diff coils on it and both times the OHMS change and go from random numbers. Start out at 1.7, next thing I know it is 2.1, within minutes up to 3.1, back down to 1.7. Just to be on the safe side I changed devices to a VAMO and same thing. Any idea what is wrong?

I'd be checking the screws that secure the coil leg first thing.
Have the adjustable 510 screw a bit backed out a turn or two when tightening the positive coil screw to make sure the the 510 screw isn't stopping the brass disc inside from butting up against it's it's insulator and the underside of the deck. Then adjust 510 screw as necessary when finished.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Bought a second Taifun from Fasttech recently. This time I bought "A" (few dollars more) I have built 2 diff coils on it and both times the OHMS change and go from random numbers. Start out at 1.7, next thing I know it is 2.1, within minutes up to 3.1, back down to 1.7. Just to be on the safe side I changed devices to a VAMO and same thing. Any idea what is wrong?

A micro coil that is not properly tensioned/formed can easily have a .4 ohm difference when firing. It should settle down after pulsing and tweezing, which can take several pulse/tweezes. It can be several things, but when the coils are not touching, sometimes the metallic oxide bonds don't form uniformly and you can see this happen. Somewhere in the circuitry, there's a short, either at the legs, or within the coil itself. When this happens to me, I will throw another coil on there, making certain of a tight micro coil tension. If the variations go away, then it's the coil. If they continue, and I've double checked the legs, then perhaps it is shorting elsewhere. You have eliminated the APV from the equation by replicating on different devices, so it has to be either the coil or the Taifun. By doing a second or third coil, if it persists, then it's most likely within the Taifun base somewhere. Just a process of elimination to isolate the short. Good luck.

 

[Phone Guy]

I removed the air tube and bushing from my GT, and drilled out the side air intake hole to 7/64 which is about the same size as the air hole in the deck (give or take a hair). Yes, its a clone, and like many of you I have several GT's so I decided to take a chance.

The results are a much airier draw, unlike most of my tank atomizers. I personally vape at around 15w to 20w depending on build, juice, mood, etc... very rarely do I vape below 15w (but occasionally I suppose I do)

I didn't have a counter sink to bevel the edges of the intake hole, so it makes a noticeable "whushing" (air moving, not whistling) noise. And as I mentioned way earlier in this thread, without the air tube I always get a tad bit of gurgle or slurping sound regardless of build and wicking style...maybe if I put some wick fluffed up at the chimney slots to kind of absorb the excess? I dunno never tried yet.

I do not know who makes my clone I drilled, I got it way before FT carried them, so... I do know its all stainless, and I personally feel some of the slurping/gurgle is happening at the collapsible collar/chimney.... it doesn't leak out of the air intake hole on the side, but when I clean it and blow IN TO the air intake some juice seems to come out of the screw hole posts??? maybe its just splattering everywhere when I force so much air through, but I personally think its actually coming out of the screw posts.....

Either way, the GT still provides one of the best vape experiences in my books.... with or without being drilled honestly drilling didn't give me the night and day difference I expected, but the results are favorable IMHO.... and nowadays drilling a $20 clone as an experiment wasn't the end of the world.

My $0.02 (sorry dwcraig1, please dont think any less of me)

 

[dwcraig1]

I removed the air tube and bushing from my GT, and drilled out the side air intake hole to 7/64 which is about the same size as the air hole in the deck (give or take a hair). Yes, its a clone, and like many of you I have several GT's so I decided to take a chance.

The results are a much airier draw, unlike most of my tank atomizers. I personally vape at around 15w to 20w depending on build, juice, mood, etc... very rarely do I vape below 15w (but occasionally I suppose I do)

I didn't have a counter sink to bevel the edges of the intake hole, so it makes a noticeable "whushing" (air moving, not whistling) noise. And as I mentioned way earlier in this thread, without the air tube I always get a tad bit of gurgle or slurping sound regardless of build and wicking style...maybe if I put some wick fluffed up at the chimney slots to kind of absorb the excess? I dunno never tried yet.

I do not know who makes my clone I drilled, I got it way before FT carried them, so... I do know its all stainless, and I personally feel some of the slurping/gurgle is happening at the collapsible collar/chimney.... it doesn't leak out of the air intake hole on the side, but when I clean it and blow IN TO the air intake some juice seems to come out of the screw hole posts??? maybe its just splattering everywhere when I force so much air through, but I personally think its actually coming out of the screw posts.....

Either way, the GT still provides one of the best vape experiences in my books.... with or without being drilled honestly drilling didn't give me the night and day difference I expected, but the results are favorable IMHO.... and nowadays drilling a $20 clone as an experiment wasn't the end of the world.

My $0.02 (sorry dwcraig1, please dont think any less of me)

I am thinking about getting one to "open up" a bit but I will increase the wick slots by about 50% to run a much larger wick and hotter coil as well as open up the airway, I just haven't got around to it as yet.

 

[dwcraig1]

I am thinking about getting one to "open up" a bit but I will increase the wick slots by about 50% to run a much larger wick and hotter coil as well as open up the airway, I just haven't got around to it as yet.

OK so I thought while I'm thinking about it I might as well order another, this time a FT b
WOW, it shipped already.

 

[chanelvaps]

Craig
Now that I think about it I was tasting something burnt before I noticed that the OHMS were jumping-After hearing what you just said I seem to remember reading somewhere that a short like this could burn something rubber inside-I immediately took it apart after reading what you said and loosened the lower (I guess that is the 510 screw) and will rebuild but how to know if I have melted something inside?

I'd be checking the screws that secure the coil leg first thing.
Have the adjustable 510 screw a bit backed out a turn or two when tightening the positive coil screw to make sure the the 510 screw isn't stopping the brass disc inside from butting up against it's it's insulator and the underside of the deck. Then adjust 510 screw as necessary when finished.

 

[Phone Guy]

I don't think there is anything inside to melt. With the exception of the bushing for the air tube. But I've never opened the base either. I seem to remember someone saying once you open then they don't go back together?

 

[zipflint]

It's daunting to sift through 164 pages of this thread, so I'll just ask:

What are some good 22 or 23mm mech mods (under $70, so either shockingly cheap authentics or clones) that match up well with yr GTs? Seems most of the current, popular 18350-18650 mods are 21mm. I've got a few different Caravela clones, a side-firing EA clone, good old Chi-You, Poldiac (which works great after some work on the button), etc. And I had a new Hammer clone until I shorted it and collapsed the flimsy spring. Go me.

Stainless steel with brass or copper contacts would be nice, but anything that is safe from ridiculous voltage drop is fine. Photos would be nice too. I realize this IS more of a mod question, but since I want something to pair specifically with a Taifun GT, I thought it would be kosher to ask here. If not, apologies.

 

[chanelvaps]

Mine fits exactly right on my ASTRO. Not crazy about it in tall mode (18650) though because it is telescopic and therefor gets smaller towards the bottom.. The ASTRO is same at 23mm as the Taifun. looks great in 18350 mode with Nano tank. Perfect.

It's daunting to sift through 164 pages of this thread, so I'll just ask:

What are some good 22 or 23mm mech mods (under $70, so either shockingly cheap authentics or clones) that match up well with yr GTs? Seems most of the current, popular 18350-18650 mods are 21mm. I've got a few different Caravela clones, a side-firing EA clone, good old Chi-You, Poldiac (which works great after some work on the button), etc. And I had a new Hammer clone until I shorted it and collapsed the flimsy spring. Go me.

Stainless steel with brass or copper contacts would be nice, but anything that is safe from ridiculous voltage drop is fine. Photos would be nice too. I realize this IS more of a mod question, but since I want something to pair specifically with a Taifun GT, I thought it would be kosher to ask here. If not, apologies.

 

[zipflint]

Thanks! Totally forgot about the Astro! I don't mind telescoping at all; seemless/single tubes are slightly preferred but I don't mind "snuggin' up" mah mods.

Mine fits exactly right on my ASTRO. Not crazy about it in tall mode (18650) though because it is telescopic and therefor gets smaller towards the bottom.. The ASTRO is same at 23mm as the Taifun. looks great in 18350 mode with Nano tank. Perfect.

 

[dwcraig1]

Craig
Now that I think about it I was tasting something burnt before I noticed that the OHMS were jumping-After hearing what you just said I seem to remember reading somewhere that a short like this could burn something rubber inside-I immediately took it apart after reading what you said and loosened the lower (I guess that is the 510 screw) and will rebuild but how to know if I have melted something inside?

If it works and tastes good I would leave it but here is a picture of the insulator on positive post where it screws into brass disc, note red arrow

There is another silicone insulator under the disc also as seen in pic below

 

[dwcraig1]

It's daunting to sift through 164 pages of this thread, so I'll just ask:

What are some good 22 or 23mm mech mods (under $70, so either shockingly cheap authentics or clones) that match up well with yr GTs? Seems most of the current, popular 18350-18650 mods are 21mm. I've got a few different Caravela clones, a side-firing EA clone, good old Chi-You, Poldiac (which works great after some work on the button), etc. And I had a new Hammer clone until I shorted it and collapsed the flimsy spring. Go me.

Stainless steel with brass or copper contacts would be nice, but anything that is safe from ridiculous voltage drop is fine. Photos would be nice too. I realize this IS more of a mod question, but since I want something to pair specifically with a Taifun GT, I thought it would be kosher to ask here. If not, apologies.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007638/1836000

Mine is type "a" with silver plated contacts, the "b" has copper contacts.
It's 22 mm but offers a good "grip" on it's self