It means it is 10 Working Hours (WH) based on the ma or a output that is usually printed on the device.
Dan
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The ABCs of batteries
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It means it is 10 Working Hours (WH) based on the ma or a output that is usually printed on the device.
Dan
WH is watt-hours, isn't it?
WH / Voltage = Amp Hours
10 / 3.7 = 2.7 Amp Hours, or about equivalent to an 18650 (2600 mAH = 2.6 AH)
WH / Voltage = Amp Hours
10 / 3.7 = 2.7 Amp Hours, or about equivalent to an 18650 (2600 mAH = 2.6 AH)
This was probably the first thing I've read on batteries that I actually understood. Thanks
can anyone confirm if this is normal...i checked my 510 battery and the it reads arounr 3.2 to 3.3 volts only...(tested both batteries i have...both had the same reading). am just curious if this is normal...considering that iv'e been reading that 510 batteries should give out around 3.6volts...
ps...tested them on full charge
ps...tested them on full charge
Hey y'all,
Glad this thread is here, even though prickly. To begin, my background is 30 years of Engineering drawing: Civil, Geotechnical, Structural, Environmental, etc. In short, maps and mechanical processes. For instance, I could draw an assembly blueprint of your entire car and know how the whole thing works or, one of your town's water system.
Conversely, all I know about chemicals is which ones shouldn't be in groundwater and how to remediate them so you and I don't become mutants. As for things electrical, forget it... you could take my knowledge, roll it around in a thimble and still hear an echo.
Fortunately for me, ignorance, unlike stupity, is curable and the posts so far have been very informative. Tip o' the hat to ya.
Please be patient with me as I want to eventually mod. (Waste decades of designing, are you kidding?) In keeping with fond memories of the bongs of my misspent youth, it'll probably be a personal desk unit of a hooka variety with a re-warming device near the mouthpiece of the tube and an auto-refiller juice reservoir. Now would be the time for anyone to tell me if such is being made... or to beat me to it.
First igmo question: Is it true all e-cig batts are made in China still?
If so, do they still have laxer safety rules than typical US Li-ion batts?
In reading up on them I actually began to wonder if the dock stopages of e-cig shipments might have more to do with questionable batts than the "Devil-e-cigs" themselves. Hmmmm.
Lastly, do manual switches act as an over-ride of internal batt safety features, somehow, and if so, could they pose any dangers auto types wouldn't have?
OK, that's enough revelation of ignorance for one sitting.
Thanks again for posting here.
Genie
Glad this thread is here, even though prickly. To begin, my background is 30 years of Engineering drawing: Civil, Geotechnical, Structural, Environmental, etc. In short, maps and mechanical processes. For instance, I could draw an assembly blueprint of your entire car and know how the whole thing works or, one of your town's water system.
Conversely, all I know about chemicals is which ones shouldn't be in groundwater and how to remediate them so you and I don't become mutants. As for things electrical, forget it... you could take my knowledge, roll it around in a thimble and still hear an echo.
Fortunately for me, ignorance, unlike stupity, is curable and the posts so far have been very informative. Tip o' the hat to ya.
Please be patient with me as I want to eventually mod. (Waste decades of designing, are you kidding?) In keeping with fond memories of the bongs of my misspent youth, it'll probably be a personal desk unit of a hooka variety with a re-warming device near the mouthpiece of the tube and an auto-refiller juice reservoir. Now would be the time for anyone to tell me if such is being made... or to beat me to it.
First igmo question: Is it true all e-cig batts are made in China still?
If so, do they still have laxer safety rules than typical US Li-ion batts?
In reading up on them I actually began to wonder if the dock stopages of e-cig shipments might have more to do with questionable batts than the "Devil-e-cigs" themselves. Hmmmm.
Lastly, do manual switches act as an over-ride of internal batt safety features, somehow, and if so, could they pose any dangers auto types wouldn't have?
OK, that's enough revelation of ignorance for one sitting.
Thanks again for posting here.
Genie
grrrrr the chart is gone ?? i see a box with a red x in it ..... *cry*
i wanted to know what batts to use.... i went to dealextreme.com there are so many damn batts its crazy
does the Mah matter? or can i pick anyone?
im lookin for 2 AA batts that kick ... lol
would any of these be decent? 18650- 3.7v-2400Mah
or http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19770
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3435
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21474
i see a box with a red x in it ..... *cry*i wanted to know what batts to use.... i went to dealextreme.com there are so many damn batts its crazy
does the Mah matter? or can i pick anyone?
im lookin for 2 AA batts that kick ... lol
would any of these be decent? 18650- 3.7v-2400Mah
or http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19770
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3435
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21474
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more mAh means more life, longer vaping time. But some companies - *fire - aren't always so accurate in their listings of mAh.
What mod are you using?
What mod are you using?
does the battery matter to what mod im using scottes? = i dunno
i need double A batts though... AA
if it does matter, im thinkin of makin a version of a nico stick, maybe a flashlight mod too.
i wanna buy some batts tonight but i dunno which ones to get... sounds by your last post it doesnt matter ... as long as they are AA the Mah doesnt matter.
i need double A batts though... AA
if it does matter, im thinkin of makin a version of a nico stick, maybe a flashlight mod too.
i wanna buy some batts tonight but i dunno which ones to get... sounds by your last post it doesnt matter ... as long as they are AA the Mah doesnt matter.
Generally, the term AA indicates a 1.5-volt battery (or 1.2 for rechargeables). The 14500 is a AA-sized battery which puts out 3.7 volts, which is the voltage required for atomizers. One could hook up 3 AAs in series - with rechargeables this is 3.6 volts, which is more than close enough.
The mAh doesn't matter. Higher is better for longer life, but a lower mAh will still work. Don't believe the mAh rating on the no-name blue batteries, or batteries from Trustfire or Ultrafire. When tested, those never live up to their stated mAh. Batteries from AW and Tenergy are more likely to have more honest mAh statements.
The mAh doesn't matter. Higher is better for longer life, but a lower mAh will still work. Don't believe the mAh rating on the no-name blue batteries, or batteries from Trustfire or Ultrafire. When tested, those never live up to their stated mAh. Batteries from AW and Tenergy are more likely to have more honest mAh statements.
I'm very tempted to write this comment in aLtcAPs, but that might be rather silly, perhapS thiS coulD bE aN optioN? Enough, enough.
Lots of useful info here, after a first read my head is just spinning but reading this subforum has definately woken some kind of urge to learn about electronics.
One thing that puzzles me is, how come batteries still suck so much? Afaik they have changed very little over quite a long period of time. We have tiny microchips that can do amazing things or hold a mass of information, we have nanotechnology (how mind-boggling isn't the idea of nanorobots?) and so on and so forth yet the batteries that are available fall very short of impressing.
Lots of useful info here, after a first read my head is just spinning but reading this subforum has definately woken some kind of urge to learn about electronics.
One thing that puzzles me is, how come batteries still suck so much? Afaik they have changed very little over quite a long period of time. We have tiny microchips that can do amazing things or hold a mass of information, we have nanotechnology (how mind-boggling isn't the idea of nanorobots?) and so on and so forth yet the batteries that are available fall very short of impressing.
Because new battery chemistries do not advance at the same rate as programming and computer hardware.
To the best of my knowledge you simply need to pop it in the charger again. But that's just a fleeting memory that I seem to remember reading somewhere, and I'm not sure, so take that with a large grain of salt.
Argh, now I'm off to research...
And I could find nothing either way. So I have no idea.
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Although this thread has died off, hoping for an answer...
OK, so I'm just Jane Doe here, got my meager little beginner collection of e-cig goodies. In my case, Vapor King. I have two regular batteries and one extra long. Now these aren't mods, of course, but we're talking about battery life and charging here.
From what I'm reading, it sounds like I need to have an ohm meter (or something similar) when charging my batteries. I'm sorry, I'm just an average person. If my light blinks, I go put the battery on the charger. If it's late and I go to bed, oh well, too bad. That puppy's going to charge while I sleep.
How in the hell would I even KNOW when it's at the right voltage anyway? Other than indicator lights - which I now see are completely unreliable - how do I really know the optimal charging for these self-contained batteries?
Geez, I need to get a mod already and just deal with finding decent rechargeables for it. All this stuff is starting to make my head hurt (nearly as painful as reading that 'cell' guys' writing *shudder*).
Off to read more about mods to buy - again.
OK, so I'm just Jane Doe here, got my meager little beginner collection of e-cig goodies. In my case, Vapor King. I have two regular batteries and one extra long. Now these aren't mods, of course, but we're talking about battery life and charging here.
From what I'm reading, it sounds like I need to have an ohm meter (or something similar) when charging my batteries. I'm sorry, I'm just an average person. If my light blinks, I go put the battery on the charger. If it's late and I go to bed, oh well, too bad. That puppy's going to charge while I sleep.
How in the hell would I even KNOW when it's at the right voltage anyway? Other than indicator lights - which I now see are completely unreliable - how do I really know the optimal charging for these self-contained batteries?
Geez, I need to get a mod already and just deal with finding decent rechargeables for it. All this stuff is starting to make my head hurt (nearly as painful as reading that 'cell' guys' writing *shudder*).
Off to read more about mods to buy - again.
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