The bad thing about the prodigy v2

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pmgelectronics

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I think the PureSmokers Ace (KR808D-1) cartomizer vape better at 3.7v anything higher then that will literally cook the juice in the (KR808D-1) cartomizer and will dry up quicker so i've notice. I wish that steve would some how have the option of a 3.7v battery the would fit in the v2 am sure their are others out their who are thinking the same way as me. On certian atomizers like the 510 seem to vape better at 3.7v i think 5v is a little too harsh on the 510 and certain other atomizers that's my opinion..
 
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mwahle1

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Another thing i think the cartomizer vape better at 3.7v anything higher then that will literally cook the juice in the carto and will dry up quicker so i've notice.

I do not own a V2; however, I vape cartomizers almost exclusively at 6 volts. I think they work great. You just have to keep them very moist. After the initial filling, I generally take between 10-20 drags, drip 6 drops into the battery end, take 10-20 drags, drip 6 drops into battery end……. repeat…repeat…repeat.

Yes, you definitely use more juice at higher voltages; although, I take less drags.
 

dgriego

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I drip and have had no juice inside the switch although with the 510 adapter (have not tried the others yet) you can get juice inside the adapter itself so I clean the adapter out ever so often. None of this has leaked inside.
The switch is easily removable, but that spring does like to fly away. Use a spring from a pen to replace it should you lose it. My pen spring is working well.
Some of us have had problems with the switch but I think it has been a fairly low number of people. Mine is now working fine since yesterday around noon.
I have zero desire to vape it at 3.7. I tried 3.7 with my Xhaler and after using the HV it was not enough for me.
I have no input on the cartos as I have never used them. Dripping is all I do.
 

Quitter

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One of the other threads has a nice DIY video on switch removal and cleaning.

Actually I have to agree with the OP on having a 3.7v option on the V2. I looked around for some batteries that may fit in the tube with maybe a small mod. No luck yet. There are times that I would like to have a monster mAh batt in my V2 for super long vape time, even if I had to step down to 3.7. Tenergy has a 2200 mAh 3.7v batt that falls about 4mm short of the two CR123a's (so that's fixable) but it's 18mm wide. The CR's are 17mm. No way it'd slide in the tube. Too bad.
 

Quitter

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If the batt was short by a few MM you can add a conductable (metal) spacer to the bottom so the neg terminal of the batt would contact the spring. But the 1mm larger diameter is a show stopper.

Turns out it's all moot because the V2 has about 2 ohms resistance in the switch (to drop the 6v coming from the batts to 5v). Putting a 3.7 batt - even if one could fit) wouldn;t work anyway. PS would have top supply a non-resistored switch like the V1.
 

Dkrom68

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I have a V2 and havent had a problem with this at all seems to liven the 510 atties up and produce better flavor, vapor, and less problems. Any juice that was overused the first couple times on the learning curve pooled in the resevoir around the atty and didnt go near the switch. Is you O ring in place good maybe thats the problem?
 

Applejackson

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Well since the OP appears to be heavily edited judging by the responses, I'll answer what has been left. With the V2, you know when you're purchasing it that it wil only run 5v (6v switch to come?). It has been discussed numerous times on the forums. It is made perfectly clear on the site. If you wanted a dual voltage device, it probably would've made more sense to actually buy one. There's nothing wrong with the V2. It performs exactly as advertized.
 

pmgelectronics

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Quiter... yes, am aware that the mechanical switch has a low resistence in which it will lower the output power coming out of the 3.7v battery but it's worth the try... PS made the contact disc thicker which is why the resistance is lower but all that PS would have to do is make the contact disc thinner and that would produce at least 1 more ohm. just so you know theirs no resistor on the v2 the contact disc was the mod that was done to lower the resistence. so PS would have to make an optional mechanical switch with a thinner contact disc which would increase the resistance by at least 1 ohm thus producing the full 3.7v coming from out of the battery. That's what i know from testing the unit with my multimeter..
 
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NekoGurrl

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If the batt was short by a few MM you can add a conductable (metal) spacer to the bottom so the neg terminal of the batt would contact the spring. But the 1mm larger diameter is a show stopper.

Turns out it's all moot because the V2 has about 2 ohms resistance in the switch (to drop the 6v coming from the batts to 5v). Putting a 3.7 batt - even if one could fit) wouldn;t work anyway. PS would have top supply a non-resistored switch like the V1.

I PM'd Steve back in mid December about this, possibly using a 17670 or one in that range to do 3.7v (with different button/switch of course). But the device was to far towards production at that time to make changes. Wish I'd brought it up a month earlier.

There would be one other way to do 3.7 on the V2, but that would entitle using a 16340 cell with a dummy cell, and a different switch. Just not worth it in my opinion when the Protege does 3.7 so well.

I'm going to keep one of my V1's with the new mechanical switches and the 3000 mAh 18650's for my big battery mod. Have my Protege for 3.7v, and will order the V2 next paycheck!
 

Quitter

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I'm still not sure why all the fuss... If you want 5 volts buy a Prodigy, if you want 3.7 buy a Protege. If you want both then buy both. All this futzing about with cusomizations and asking Puresmoker to be all things to al people just over complicates the matter.

Simpler is better, more reliable and cheaper. :D

Nice if you have the funding. I personally would like to be able to convert my current investment to the voltage I want for the need. Especially If I can do this with a cheap battery and a switch. Sure beats spending another $100 on another unit. If it can't be done, so be it. But you can't get down on us for exploring the possibility.
 

Quitter

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So here's a key question I have. How does the V2 switch drop the voltage to 5v from 6v? Is it the resistance in the switch's contact ring? (per PMGelectronics post above)

Turns out that an Ultrfire 17670 protected battery is 17mm wide by 68mm long. It should be an exact fit for the V2 tube. SO if the resistance of the switch was taken out, wouldn't the V2 in theory become a 3.7 unit? (but with 1800 mAh life!).

Would substituting an all-metal ring do the trick?

Just throwing it out there.
 
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CaSHMeRe

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Quitter ... A 17670 battery won't fit in the V2. I have 4 of them here, from 2 different manufacturers. The ID of the V2 tube is roughly 16.5mm ... where as the OD of the 17670 is roughly 17.0 - 17.2mm ...

Resistance to the overall circuit of the V2 is added at the contact disk. Aluminum also add about .1 ohms of resistance over your standard Copper/Brass contacts.
 

2Packsaday

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I just started using my V2 today, all day. I LOVE it. It is a VM (Vapor Monster). I bought it BECAUSE it is a 5V device.

I get the flavor I'm looking for out of my KR808 carts along with the awesome vapor produced by a 5V supply. By the way, do these batteries every run out?????

If you own a V2, please try your favorite juice in a KR8 carto - I think that you will love it as I do.
 
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