???the best battery period???
- Thread starter AustinOwens
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Yeah... I kinda did a Bad Job of Setting up where I Wanted to go.
How about this? Say I make a .2 Ohm Build for a Mod that is Outputting 4.2 Volts. My Amps would be 21 Amps. Right. So if I put a 25A Constant Discharge Battery in it I should be OK.
But what Happens when I Use Stacked Batteries? Now my Output Voltage would be 8.4 Volts. So Doesn't my Amps Double Also? And Now my 25A Batteries are NOT Good to go Anymore.
I know this is kinda a Rare. Because not to many people are Using Stacked Battery Mech Mods. But I was just Throwing it out there.
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BTW - On something like a Vamo that is VV, is the Input Voltage Unregulated?
Meaning, does the Chip set just Take whatever Voltage the Batter/Batteries give it? Or is the Input Voltage to the Chip Set Limited?
And how does one go about Calculating Battery Amps for a VV Device?
Meaning, does the Chip set just Take whatever Voltage the Batter/Batteries give it? Or is the Input Voltage to the Chip Set Limited?
And how does one go about Calculating Battery Amps for a VV Device?
If you are stacking two 18350 6 amp batteries, your continuous amp limit is still just 6 amps (amps don't double, just voltage). Your current draw will be WAY over that (21 amps).
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Yeah... I'm with you. The Amp Limit of the Battery doesn't Change when I put Batteries in Series.
But to Keep Ohms Law in Equilibrium, when I double the Voltage (and keep the Resistance the Same) the Amps (draw) has to Double Also.
However sigelei's chip (and vamo's for that matter) threat differently a single vs stacked setup. The first uses a different circuit than the second so in the end, in practice, you get twice or even three times more duration from a stacked setup. Check out the sigelei owners group thread for more info. Many are using stacked setups there as it will overcome the mod's 2.5 amp limit in single batt mode.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Well, this is where I disagree with you. a 6.8a batts mah rating cannot be compared to a 30 amp bat mah ratting, Had some AW 10 amps that would stop powering the Provari sooner than the 18490's I was using. And that kind of pizzed me off, who'd a thought the AW 1100 mah 490 batts would out perform and last longer then the 650's 2000. True, at this point in my vape game, P was being pushed to her max, but still. grrr. lol
Then there's the "Pepsi Incident" factor to consider. Even regulated "protected" devices can malfunction. Accidents happens, circuits were made to be shorted, or something like that, but if that happens, which batt do you want in the tube?? hmmm??? a 6.8 amp continuous or maybe one may feel a bit safer with 30 amp continuous in the tank??? Just saying.
Also, heck, what if I decide to go mech or high amp regulated, down the road, well, lets see, if I had only 6.8A or 10A batts, well frak, I now have to go buy all new batts, because what I now have will not be safe to use, and may not even power my device adequately. High amp batts are never overkill in my opinion, they are a smart vape investment.
I was reluctant to list the Panny's with the 6.8 amp rating. It's probably the first time I have ever listed them, and I kind of regret it now. They might be appropriate for a mechanical mod using standard resistance coils. But I admit putting them in a regulated mod using pulse width regulation can push these batteries harder than they should be pushed. So, I actually agree with your points.
The NCRA and NCRB Panny's are not high drain batteries, and Provape specifically states using only high drain batteries for the Provari. I'm not surprised of your results with this battery.
The AW 18490 IMR 1100 mah is a pretty remarkable battery. It has a 16.5 amps continuous rating (15 C rating). Even the purple Efest 18500 1100 mah only has 15 amps continuous. All the other batteries in this size only have 9 amps continuous.
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Yeah, upon further investigation, that was an enlightening conundrum for me.
Have the highest respect for your knowledge and input here at the ecf. You have always been one of my mentors along me personal vape Journey, so I never lock horns with Bad lightly And I do tend to push things to the highest standards, while being as safe as possible. The info and searches your guidance has led me to, has most likely saved my azz more than once, so I tend to look at things from the Max what if perspective.
Sure, one may never need high amps batts, but I am always happier to have an airbag, than not, when crashing.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!
I've been vaping for just over 6 months and am just getting into mechs and dripping. While I realize that having a "cushion" with regards to battery amperage is critical, what do you guys consider "enough of a cushion". I'm building coils only as low as .45 ohm (~10A) and just don't understand (for me) the need for 30+ amp batteries (though I am currently using Orbtronic SX30 Ultra High Drain Hybrid IMR batteries in my AR-15 Clone). I need to get a few more 18650s and am realizing that the apparent popularity of the VTC5s has made them all but impossible to find. In your opinion, wouldn't I be well within the "safe zone" with some good 20A batteries? If so, which have the best performance and mAh?
TIA
TIA
Well technically it will work but it's a very bad idea... There is a reason we call negative pole "ground "... It's because everything is negative.
If you invert the polarity, then you nice mechanical mod will be positive all-around it's body and it will discharge or worse (sparks come to mind) when it comes in contact with anything grounded, yourself included... Bad idea.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
If you invert the polarity, then you nice mechanical mod will be positive all-around it's body and it will discharge or worse (sparks come to mind) when it comes in contact with anything grounded, yourself included... Bad idea.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
20 amps are within the safe zone for 0.45 coils, and leaves a margin of safety. This is my personal opinion.
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw = (margin of safety)
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw (over spec)
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw = (over spec)
- AW 18650 1600mah 24A
- LG 18650HE2 2500mah 20A
- MNKE IMR 18650 1500mah 20A
- Orbtronic 18650 SX22 2000mAh 22A
- Orbtronic 18650 2500mAh 21A
- Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A
- Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh 20A
- purple Efest 18650 2500mAh 35A* (rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp*) <-- actually a 20 amp battery
I disregard "pulse discharge" ratings. They are not standardized within the battery industry like the "continuous discharge" ratings. Pulse ratings give a false sense of security. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relied on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse, burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are running the battery at the edge of it's limits (relying on the pulse rating), there is no margin of safety.
Again, this is my personal opinion. People who are running 0.1 ohm or less coils are over the specs for any 30 amp battery.
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Is this One of those "Path of Least Resistance" things?
The Reason I ask, is another Member, Rossum?, mentioned that Batteries are Designed to Vent at the Positive End of the Battery. But Most Mods are Designed to Vent thru the End Cap.
So if the Battery Swells, Venting Gases might not be able to go around the Battery. Making the End Cap Vent Hole not very Useful.
So I wondered if a Mod was Designed for the Positive End of the Battery to be on the Battery Cap End/Vent Hole, wouldn't that be a Better Design?
Then I wondered about a Mech Mod?
A battery venting through the top of the mod would be venting into a user's face. Most batteries will pop their top when they vent, sending the juice attachment into one's mouth, hence "You'll blow your jaw off!" (A Christmas Story anology)
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Yeah... Venting is Not a Good Thing.
So if a Battery Is going to Vent, wouldn't you want it to Vent thru the End Cap? Away from your Face.
Of course. But as you and Rossum pointed out, most batteries will vent from the top. Since a venting battery may swell in size, the increased physical volume of the battery could block the gas pathway to the bottom of the mod. Essentially no venting possible out the bottom. Maybe side vent holes in addition to a bottom hole are a better idea?
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