~The Billet Box~ page 1559 continued...

[TheotherSteveS]

I haven't used it yet, but the DNA60 board does have the option to use SS and other materials for TC.

I'm not sure if the profile is the basic one from Evolv, or if BB placed something in there (doubt they did, but they did add a logo on the startup screen.)

What I meant was it will work well with SS provided the wire matches the profile ie 316, 316L 430 etc etc. If it doesnt match, it wont work at all but that is true of any of the wire types!

edit: just checked and it's (apparently) 316.

I must admit, having a DNA60 in there and no opportunity to tweak it is a bit frustrating but there it is I will run my NiFe48 on the Ni200 setting with offset temp as I do for the DNA40. In fact, the 60 offers no advantage to me over the 40...

 

[batteredwombat]

I took a USB charger for a DNA40/60 and make it so the header pins can be fit into the PCB. This means I can set/update my DNA60's and then put the mod back together. The stock profiles Evolve made are OK at best and don't have a temperature dominant profile for SS (which I use exclusively).

Have you done this with a dna60 BB? I was thinking if there is access on the backside to the header pins mabey solder the tips of the wires until they fit snugly into the back and us the charging port to import settings into dna60 billet box.

Edit: Found it!

 

[Freedom2Vape]

Just built and ran my Insider....Hole E fack. Way better than my *sob clone Exocet. A little tight on the draw but no dry hits and feeds like a dream. I wish I could get a real Exo but this will have to do. Solid product.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

I actually found the Insider and Exocet to be a little loose on the draw (tightened it up by using a provari/radius o-ring on the Insider and the KF mtl kit on the Exocet). Both of them work great for me now as restricted DL.

 

[NeoGoldenBoy]

What I meant was it will work well with SS provided the wire matches the profile ie 316, 316L 430 etc etc. If it doesnt match, it wont work at all but that is true of any of the wire types!

edit: just checked and it's (apparently) 316.

I must admit, having a DNA60 in there and no opportunity to tweak it is a bit frustrating but there it is I will run my NiFe48 on the Ni200 setting with offset temp as I do for the DNA40. In fact, the 60 offers no advantage to me over the 40...

Sorry about that. Yes, it indeed is 316 and so far it seems to be working fine for me.

My handcheck:

SS316L 26awg @0.82 on the Insider
22.2 w

I turned off TC as I prefer regular watts even with SS, but I did try a couple minutes and it was working quite well.

 

[jcash74]

What do you guys use to clean the contacts? I have a problem with my ohms fluctuating and wanted to try a good cleaning before I try anything else.
It's a problem on my dna 40 & 60.

 

[gnees]

I just use a q-tip and alcohol.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I just use a q-tip and alcohol.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Just to say I wouldn't use iso-propanol (rubbing alcohol) as it might affect any seals that are around there!

 

[DPLongo22]

I just use a q-tip and alcohol.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Just to say I wouldn't use iso-propanol (rubbing alcohol) as it might affect any seals that are around there!

I've been using 99% for years (4?) on all my BBs (3s & 4s), including contacts. No problems to report.

Keep spare o-rings handy, just in case.

DeoxIT also works well, if you're concerned.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I've been using 99% for years (4?) on all my BBs (3s & 4s), including contacts. No problems to report.

Keep spare o-rings handy, just in case.

DeoxIT also works well, if you're concerned.

okeedokee. If it's tried and tested that's great!!

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

Sorry about that. Yes, it indeed is 316 and so far it seems to be working fine for me.

My handcheck:

SS316L 26awg @0.82 on the Insider
22.2 w

I turned off TC as I prefer regular watts even with SS, but I did try a couple minutes and it was working quite well.

What diameter and how many wraps? With my 3mm 26g 315l contact coil I keep getting stuck at .55 ohms. I would like to go higher to increase efficiency but I have 8 wraps going and not much more space.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

What diameter and how many wraps? With my 3mm 26g 315l contact coil I keep getting stuck at .55 ohms. I would like to go higher to increase efficiency but I have 8 wraps going and not much more space.

27g maybe?

Do you mean TC efficiency??? If so, then using a different wire with a decent TCR would be more fruitful!!

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

27g maybe?

Do you mean TC efficiency??? If so, then using a different wire with a decent TCR would be more fruitful!!

I only use wattage mode. I'm getting dry hits and not much heat at 30w with the Insider. all of my 40w devices love .8-1 ohm range with a nice hot tasty vape. To get that high with 26g i need 10+ wraps and that is just not good for juice-feeding.

 

[GeekyGeezer]

I have no idea why it took me so long to find this place. It's nice to see many of my Provari friends here. So Hello!

I've read back 40 or 50 pages and didn't see anything regarding a problem I'm having. I continue to get leaking out the bottom of the pin. It happens on both the Exo and the Insider and with different boros. I've done every kind of build and wicking I can think of and nothing has seemes to help. It happens on all 3 Rev 4s that I have.

I've also changed multiple gaskets and all the o-rings on a boro. Yes, the glass is oriented correctly and I'm making sure to slide it that extra mm or so after it seems to have seated.

This is not a condensation problem I'm talking about. I don't mind that too much and have learned to deal with it. This is a situation where after a few hours, juice is coming out the vent slots on the case, and in worst cases can actually be poured out. It happens with a fuller tank and also one that needs to be filled; usually if I can get the leak stopped I can vape the tank without problems. I never get the leaking after a full out servicing of the boro (removing the gasket and washing, etc.) but more than not will happen on the first refill.

Yes, the gasket is fully seated and shows an even width around all edges. I do seem to have a lot of problems with iiquid getting under the gasket which makes it want to flex up out of its recess as the glass is closed.

Sorry for such a lengthy first message. This is incredibly frustrating since I haven't discovered what causes it and have never understood what I did to fix it when it finally goes away. Help, please!

 

[NeoGoldenBoy]

What diameter and how many wraps? With my 3mm 26g 315l contact coil I keep getting stuck at .55 ohms. I would like to go higher to increase efficiency but I have 8 wraps going and not much more space.

I used a 3 mm screwdriver and it's a spaced coil, I'm not sure how many wraps they were but the coil covers the air slot perfectly. I'm using the airflow wide open and the wider chimney, no dry hits or issues for me.

Also, in case it helps, I used LightningVapes 26g SS316L wire.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

anyone know what the %woot% Ni200 profile settings are on the 60?

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

I used a 3 mm screwdriver and it's a spaced coil, I'm not sure how many wraps they were but the coil covers the air slot perfectly. I'm using the airflow wide open and the wider chimney, no dry hits or issues for me.

Also, in case it helps, I used LightningVapes 26g SS316L wire.

Hmm. Cotton touching the deck at all? My 1st build was fantastic, but wanted to try out some other builds as I get bored sometimes. Back to a spaced coil methinks.

 

[HBcorpse]

I have no idea why it took me so long to find this place. It's nice to see many of my Provari friends here. So Hello!

I've read back 40 or 50 pages and didn't see anything regarding a problem I'm having. I continue to get leaking out the bottom of the pin. It happens on both the Exo and the Insider and with different boros. I've done every kind of build and wicking I can think of and nothing has seemes to help. It happens on all 3 Rev 4s that I have.

I've also changed multiple gaskets and all the o-rings on a boro. Yes, the glass is oriented correctly and I'm making sure to slide it that extra mm or so after it seems to have seated.

This is not a condensation problem I'm talking about. I don't mind that too much and have learned to deal with it. This is a situation where after a few hours, juice is coming out the vent slots on the case, and in worst cases can actually be poured out. It happens with a fuller tank and also one that needs to be filled; usually if I can get the leak stopped I can vape the tank without problems. I never get the leaking after a full out servicing of the boro (removing the basket and washing, etc.) but more than not will happen on the first refill.

Yes, the gasket is fully seated and shows an even width around all edges. I do seem to have a lot of problems with iiquid getting under the gasket which makes it want to flex up out of its recess as the glass is closed.

Sorry for such a lengthy first message. This is incredibly frustrating since I haven't discovered what causes it and have never understood what I did to fix it when it finally goes away. Help, please!

The only times I've encountered what you're describing, is when my wick/build was too close to and/or touching the deck.

When the juice flows into the wick, it would then "fall" to the deck since the wick was so close, and take the path of least resistance down the center pin and out the bottom of the atomizer.

This happened with Kayfuns, BBox builds, etc.

It sounds like you're on top of the tank game, in the sense that the tank is not the issue.

Be sure you have enough clearance from the deck/center pin...

If that's not the issue either, then I have no idea.

Maybe slightly too little wick?

Sometimes the juice will "overpower" a thin wick and cause the same behavior.

 

[NeoGoldenBoy]

Hmm. Cotton touching the deck at all? My 1st build was fantastic, but wanted to try out some other builds as I get bored sometimes. Back to a spaced coil methinks.

I put the cotton with just enough resistance and it was thick, so I thinned it a little bit and put a little bit in the feed channel (1 milimiter or so) and enough not to get caught in the threads.

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

I put the cotton with just enough resistance and it was thick, so I thinned it a little bit and put a little bit in the feed channel (1 milimiter or so) and enough not to get caught in the threads.

I tried this once but had mad feeding issues. I think I need to thin out my cotton a touch. Just built your method and it is working well except when I chain vape.

 

[GeekyGeezer]

The only times I've encountered what you're describing, is when my wick/build was too close to and/or touching the deck.

You may have gotten it in one. That is honestly nothing I paid much attention to before - and your explanation makes sense. Right now all the BBs are happy and not weeping tears of ejuice, but the next time one comes apart I'm going to take a close look at that. Thanks!

edit: After a bit more thought, I'm not sure if the exocet could be affected by that although the insider sure could be. At least I have another thing to work with whereas before you replied I was at a loss.