The Erlkönigin : PICTORIAL

[Sptz]

@VBdev: Yes, everything is assembled correctly.

@vapdivrr: I get leaking when I fill either without the AFC, or with the AFC. So, let's say, doing either of those, I open up the fill holes, make sure both are clear (as juice gets sometimes a bit stuck up there) so air can pass through freely, start filling up, all good. Remove the needle, immediately close and tighten the drip tip. Few seconds in, starts leaking drops from the air hold at the base, I clean it, put it in my mod, start vaping, all good. No flooding, no nothing.

If I do the fully tighten the AFC thing, when I finish filling, I close everything, turn it upside down, open up the AFC and it starts dropping juice from the drip tip exact same quantities as I previously described. So, I guess that means it;s flooding the chamber correct?

 

[qorax]

@VBdev: Yes, everything is assembled correctly.

@vapdivrr: I get leaking when I fill either without the AFC, or with the AFC. So, let's say, doing either of those, I open up the fill holes, make sure both are clear (as juice gets sometimes a bit stuck up there) so air can pass through freely, start filling up, all good. Remove the needle, immediately close and tighten the drip tip. Few seconds in, starts leaking drops from the air hold at the base, I clean it, put it in my mod, start vaping, all good. No flooding, no nothing.

If I do the fully tighten the AFC thing, when I finish filling, I close everything, turn it upside down, open up the AFC and it starts dropping juice from the drip tip exact same quantities as I previously described. So, I guess that means it;s flooding the chamber correct?

May I suggest something?

Do not crank down the Chimney too much. Leave it the moment you feel restriction. We also need to keep the "Feed Control Ring" free to wobble! Feel it once you've tightened the chimney. That ring assists in / maintains proper feeding inside. Too stiff is bad.

Your pics look good, it's just a matter of time now.

 

[jluc]

The way I fill is a little different. I close the afc, expose the fill holes, snug the drip tip, put my finger over the drip tip and fill. Without removing my finger from the drip tip I loosen the drip tip, close the top cap, snug the drip tip and invert the attie. Once the juice has cleared the wick holes I remove my finger from the drip tip and remove the afc. A bit of a pain to do it this way but so far it has worked every time. By sealing both ends of the attie the juice can't displace the air in the chimney. YMMV

 

[Sptz]

I do overtight the chimney that could be a factor. Cheers Qorax.

jluc: I shall try that method next time I refill.

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try these in the future and see if that rids the problem.

 

[jaxgator]

I had leaks on fills in the beginning as well and had to use the AFC method which helped a lot. Still had to clean up underneath afterwords and focus on getting everything done quick and re-establishing the vacuum quickly after getting those fill holes closed. I also felt like, if filling with the same flavor, doing so when the juice channels were still completely covered with juice prevented leaking.

What's made the difference for me, and now I have no issues with leaking, are the big shoulders at the top of the channel and extending them out from the coil further. I trim with my scissors lined up on the channel's outer edge for the guide so they are pushed up against the chimney when shut. There's an awesome pic ITT that's been quoted a few times that has the chimney sketched in. I still have some going down the channel but minimal. I simply haven't tried the "no wick down the channel get the shoulders right" technique yet. I still get a little dampness down there and on top of my mod, wouldn't call it a leak, just a touch of moisture. Should have invested earlier in paper towels and Q-tips.

Keep tweaking at it, this is solvable.

BIG shoulders! That's the ticket. Not long shoulders, but BIG shoulders. I have found that when using rayon (CCR), more is m0Ar. I stuff it in there, drag a couple threads from the bottom downward and snip the rest off at the downward bend of the channels.

Perhaps I will take some pictures the next time I re-wick. Might be a bit as I go through at least 2 tanks with a re-wick and I just re-wicked one of the twins tonight.

Hey buddy, do you use a syringe or just the bottle? I mainly use a syringe and I think initially I had the syringe inserted all the way down which I think forced juice into the chimney, now I barely insert. If you don't do this then nevermind. I also had juice do this on the bottom but don't anymore and tbh, not sure why. I once thought it was caused by my coil being to low because my wick tail was slightly pressing against deck. So those are 2 possibilities that may or may not be reasons. I think more main reasons are oring and insufficient wicking materials. If you are only using minimal tails in channels, then you really do need some healthy shoulders. Have any pics? Also is this leaking worse if you just open up fill holes and fill? Instead of doing the whole afc opening and closing thing?

This is good info right here when using a syringe with the Erl. Don't cram the needle down in there. Just enough to get the juice flowing in the tank is all that's needed.

I have the AFC removed all the time and never have any leaking issues when filling. My procedure: After all is prepped, loosen the drip tip, open the fill port, fill to almost full (we want a slight bubble in there at the least), remove syringe, close top cap and secure drip tip. No leaks whatsoever. Every. Time.

Here's the post that made it click for me. Never had a leak on fill issue again.

Saw your post and was going to search the thread for that image. Thanks for saving me the time.

Here are some pics of the wicking I did:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/617922/20140926_214033-1-1.jpg

My opinion? That's a great build but those shoulders are too long. Clip them closer to the bend in the channels as mentioned above. At least on the right hand side anyway.

But what do I know?

 

[jluc]

BIG shoulders! That's the ticket. Not long shoulders, but BIG shoulders. I have found that when using rayon (CCR), more is m0Ar. I stuff it in there, drag a couple threads from the bottom downward and snip the rest off at the downward bend of the channels.

Perhaps I will take some pictures the next time I re-wick. Might be a bit as I go through at least 2 tanks with a re-wick and I just re-wicked one of the twins tonight.



This is good info right here when using a syringe with the Erl. Don't cram the needle down in there. Just enough to get the juice flowing in the tank is all that's needed.

I have the AFC removed all the time and never have any leaking issues when filling. My procedure: After all is prepped, loosen the drip tip, open the fill port, fill to almost full (we want a slight bubble in there at the least), remove syringe, close top cap and secure drip tip. No leaks whatsoever. Every. Time.



Saw your post and was going to search the thread for that image. Thanks for saving me the time.



My opinion? That's a great build but those shoulders are too long. Clip them closer to the bend in the channels as mentioned above. At least on the right hand side anyway.

But what do I know?

I have an empty Erl. I'll try it this way again but it has been hit and miss for me. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[jaxgator]

I have an empty Erl. I'll try it this way again but it has been hit and miss for me. I'll let you know how it goes.

jluc, as far as I can tell it is about doing it without haste. That's why I mentioned the "After all is prepped" part. Ready? Get set. Go!

No leaks thus far.

ETA: You don't have to rush it but don't dawdle all the same.

 

[jluc]

jluc, as far as I can tell it is about doing it without haste. That's why I mentioned the "After all is prepped" part. Ready? Get set. Go!

No leaks thus far.

ETA: You don't have to rush it but don't dawdle all the same.

Didn't work for me. I filled quickly and got a few drips out the bottom. I guess we each have our own method that works for us. Here are some picks of the build I just did.

 

[XBarbarian]

hi!

so.. last month or so, Ive been partial to a 2x 28g parallels, or single 26g, both coming in around .6-.7 ohms. raan for several weeks with those variants.

I ve seen several posts on various places about it being better to run higher ohm coil with regulated mods.. like dna 30's ( or my a mod zna clone )

so tonight I went 9 wraps 28g, @ 1.8 ohms

theoretically, longer battery life because its amp draw that kills the battery, I believe? thats correct?

anyway.. what the heck.. I love the vape Im getting with this 1.8 ohm, @ 17 watts. heats fast, lot s of surface area.. it's churning much more it seems to those .6 builds.. weird. but whatever.. Im LOVING IT! I love my Erl so much. nothing else compares. ( of tanks Ive tried anyway. just blows away my R91 )

bout to order a 2nd one, but waiting for nano's to be available.

 

[jluc]

hi!

so.. last month or so, Ive been partial to a 2x 28g parallels, or single 26g, both coming in around .6-.7 ohms. raan for several weeks with those variants.

I ve seen several posts on various places about it being better to run higher ohm coil with regulated mods.. like dna 30's ( or my a mod zna clone )

so tonight I went 9 wraps 28g, @ 1.8 ohms

theoretically, longer battery life because its amp draw that kills the battery, I believe? thats correct?

anyway.. what the heck.. I love the vape Im getting with this 1.8 ohm, @ 17 watts. heats fast, lot s of surface area.. it's churning much more it seems to those .6 builds.. weird. but whatever.. Im LOVING IT! I love my Erl so much. nothing else compares. ( of tanks Ive tried anyway. just blows away my R91 )

bout to order a 2nd one, but waiting for nano's to be available.

I go for a lot of surface area myself. The build I just did is a ten wrap 26g coming in at 1.12 ohms. I tried your parallel build after reading how much you were enjoying it but I kept overlapping the wires and I gave up pretty quick.

The mods I use are regulated, a dna30, an sx350, and an ipv2.

 

[XBarbarian]

Didn't work for me. I filled quickly and got a few drips out the bottom. I guess we each have our own method that works for us. Here are some picks of the build I just did.

that wicking looks superb

hmm.. I occasionally get those drops / or minor seepage for a minute or two post fill. I don't bother with the afc anymore. I just wipe it every time I fill anticipating some of those few drops. lately, haven't had any though. even when I do, its as you described, it's just 2-3 drops or less. I wipe it, and vape, no leaks .. so I just dont worry about it.

Im considerably more casual about the whole deal now. I used to be all tense and stuff.. lol. now, I rebuilt it including coils and wick in like 15 mins. waalaa. if a drop seep or something, I wipe it and start vaping! lol. I have noticed it does like to take a few draws post build, then I let it sit for a few minutes. then have at .. chainin' yummy clouds til tank is drained.

on the base / o ring post ( forgot who asked the question ) to me.. it looked like it wasn't seated down enough on one side to me. the screwing down of the cap doesn't necessarily tighten the tank walls flush, as Q said, it isnt load bearing. I just manually make sure its flush when I install the tank piece.

cheers!

 

[XBarbarian]

I go for a lot of surface area myself. The build I just did is a ten wrap 26g coming in at 1.12 ohms. I tried your parallel build after reading how much you were enjoying it but I kept overlapping the wires and I gave up pretty quick.

The mods I use are regulated, a dna30, an sx350, and an ipv2.

ahh! right on. will give that a go too. tonights was similar with 28g instead of 26g. minor diff, although the resistance is higher with the 28. I think it might ramp just a tad faster.. and the 28g version will draw less amps

 

[Cloud Hunter]

jluc, your build looks pretty OK to me but please allow me some small tipps:

on the right side you might have just a bit too much cotton/rayon which extends or protrudes over the side of the base (see red lines). If you have it that way, you displace the wick (no matter how "fluffy" it is) by screwing on the chimney due to friction and that results in opening the channel on that side where liquid can enter the chamber freely and causes the Erli to loose some drops down the airholes later. The trick is that you wanna have a fluffy wick on top of the channel-shoulders but not protruding sideways over the shoulders. IMHO you should let some cotton fibers run down the juice channels, too (but not down to the very end of the channel, cut it two mm above). But the most important thing is the trimming of the wick on the side. If that's OK, you can screw down the dome/chimney without displacing the wick.

hope that helped

 

[dave18]

Hi. Just got mine yesterday. Need help. When I fill from the top, about halfway the juice starts leaking from the bottom. What could be wrong ?
After I've cleaned it up, it vapes well and doesn't leak anymore, until the next refill. How do I fix this?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Cloud Hunter]

Hi dave, please read the last 10 (or so) postings ;-). Hopefully you'll find your solution there.

 

[qorax]

Hi. Just got mine yesterday. Need help. When I fill from the top, about halfway the juice starts leaking from the bottom. What could be wrong ?
After I've cleaned it up, it vapes well and doesn't leak anymore, until the next refill. How do I fix this?
Thanks in advance.

Hi, congrats and welcome to the thread (of the Erlk)! Pls read below:

Erlk Filling Procedure

Tighten the AFC Disc completely in > Loosen the drip tip and Open the fill ports > Use a Syringe (or needle tip bottle) and fill it in one go > Ensure you have filled only 80-90% of the tank > Also ensure that while filing one of the fill holes is completely free (unobstructed) > Close the fill ports and Tighten the drip tip > Inverse the Erlk and slowly open the AFC Disc to your liking > While doing so pls ensure that the mouthpiece of the DT is free (unobstructed) > Let it sit in this position (upside down) for a few secs > Upright the Erlk and vape on.

99% of the time you'll have no issues of flooding or whatever if you fill it this way.

 

[qorax]

Heads Up: 22mm Glass Tanks for the Erlk Nano

www.ibtanked.com/other-tank-tubes/pbproduct/erlkonigin-nano

 

[dave18]

Hi, congrats and welcome to the thread (of the Erlk)! Pls read below:

Thank you, Qorak and Cloud Hunter. Sorry, i havent been following the thread for a long time. Obviously, Im not alone on this issue. Will try the AFC method on my next refill.
Strangely, my first build yesterday didnt leak at all. The resistance was too high so i built another. And another since it was flooded all the time. I'll try another with more fluffy cotton on top, cut off at the rim and with a shorter tail.
thanks again

 

[qorax]

...I'll try another with more fluffy cotton on top, cut off at the rim and with a shorter tail.

Trim your wick this way, juice it up and assemble the chamber:

 

[jluc]

jluc, your build looks pretty OK to me but please allow me some small tipps:

on the right side you might have just a bit too much cotton/rayon which extends or protrudes over the side of the base (see red lines). If you have it that way, you displace the wick (no matter how "fluffy" it is) by screwing on the chimney due to friction and that results in opening the channel on that side where liquid can enter the chamber freely and causes the Erli to loose some drops down the airholes later. The trick is that you wanna have a fluffy wick on top of the channel-shoulders but not protruding sideways over the shoulders. IMHO you should let some cotton fibers run down the juice channels, too (but not down to the very end of the channel, cut it two mm above). But the most important thing is the trimming of the wick on the side. If that's OK, you can screw down the dome/chimney without displacing the wick.

hope that helped

I noticed the right side in the pic also. The angle of the picture seems to exaggerate it. It's wicking great.