The Erlkönigin : PICTORIAL

[Clark F]

Congrats on your purchase, I know you were thinking hard about it from your posts.

 

[Drumonron]

Congrats on your purchase, I know you were thinking hard about it from your posts.

Yes, I struggled and wrestled with it for some time and grew weak to it's power over a mere mortal such as I, resistance became futile and I succumbed to it's lure from the pictures that Qorax echoed out into vapeland.

I mean, ECF is like disneyland for a guy like me, you know.

 

[Clark F]

Oh yes, hope you get it soon!!

 

[qorax]

Amazon: "we're sorry, we can't ship that item to your location"

Me: Seriously, Amazon? You can't ship frigging sticky labels to a USPS military address?

I used to have similar problems getting things via courier at my Mil addy. Then I started using one of my local civilian friend's home address. Became a ritual to meet them, chat, have a drink and grab my package

 

[vapdivrr]

Did the First set up on the elk last night. Being that both my vv devices are topped, I set up the elk for a mech. I'm use to vaping between 15 to 20 watts so when I do mech set ups I do them between .5 to .7 ohms, this because of voltage drop and fairly soon depletion of battery puts me in my wattage range. Anyways made coil in the .6 ohm range and thought I nailed the first build. Worked great for about 5 minutes then got a slight gurgle then dry hits. As I broke it down to rebuild I noticed that somehow the top cap had come loose . Maybe I had loosened it up while filling or something but this was the reason I was getting the dry hits. Rewicked again and it's been running awesome all day. My coil diameter is 1.7mm so I didn't cut tail in half, instead just trimmed a slight bit off on an angle. I would think the smaller the diameter the less you would need to trim. Anyways awesome device, thanks Q.

 

[qorax]

The WAE II you just ordered isn't exactly small, put a big ... topper on it and use as a cane when not vaping.

Like this?

Ah, the K-Mini has one more attachable section, which I chose not to mess around with

 

[qorax]

Did the First set up on the elk last night. Being that both my vv devices are topped, I set up the elk for a mech. I'm use to vaping between 15 to 20 watts so when I do mech set ups I do them between .5 to .7 ohms, this because of voltage drop and fairly soon depletion of battery puts me in my wattage range.

Anyways made coil in the .6 ohm range and thought I nailed the first build. Worked great for about 5 minutes then got a slight gurgle then dry hits. As I broke it down to rebuild I noticed that somehow the top cap had come loose . Maybe I had loosened it up while filling or something but this was the reason I was getting the dry hits.

Rewicked again and it's been running awesome all day. My coil diameter is 1.7mm so I didn't cut tail in half, instead just trimmed a slight bit off on an angle. I would think the smaller the diameter the less you would need to trim.

Anyways awesome device, thanks Q.

Good going Vap, my ol' KFL guru

 

[jaxgator]

Love it...and true it is...til next month! It's the Vape Budget! It's just fun trying new things, though.

Yeah...good luck getting the Squape Reloaded...I think maybe in Aug or Sept they will have colored ones...it looks good but BIG....REALLY BIG compared to the Erl, that is.

Got the SQuape R(eloaded) the same day as I got the Elkie. It's currently sitting on my dining room table and will stay there until I get my wicking sorted on the Elkie.

Your efforts shall not be in vain or go unrewarded...you put a lot of work into this pictorial and I appreciate your efforts...I'd go so far as to say they are on par with some Major Advertising Campaigns with very detailed descriptions. IMHO a great service to your fellow vapers.

Indeed! His reviews are definitely top notch. If I'm not mistaken, Q is a photog by trade. If he's not, then he should be.

And on that note I just clicked the "Pay Now" button on PayPal for the WAE II.

 

[archimede]

Thank you for this great pictorial qorax.
What i wanted to learn is that, when we want to change the cotton is it possible to do it when there is liquid in the tank? Is it possible to open from the bottom or must the tank be emptied before changing the cotton?

 

[Sekasi]

Hey qorax. I'm a clearomizer person. Never tried an rba, ever. I just bought this. I expect to fail a lot but I'm thankful for all your tips and images throughout this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jaxgator]

Thank you for this great pictorial qorax.
What i wanted to learn is that, when we want to change the cotton is it possible to do it when there is liquid in the tank? Is it possible to open from the bottom or must the tank be emptied before changing the cotton?

In Q's absence, no, you cannot rewick without first emptying the tank.

Now, on the other hand, with the SQaupe R(eloaded) , this is possible. However, I don't find it that much of a bother. I just grab a syringe, suck all of the juice out, re-wick, put it back together and then squirt the juice back into the tank from the syringe.

 

[vapdivrr]

Qorax! I just purchased a WAE2....doh!

me too! between the new elk and this, about 600.00. when I got into vaping my first thought was all the money I would be saving. why did that sad face end up, up there?

 

[jaxgator]

me too! between the new elk and this, about 600.00. when I got into vaping my first thought was all the money I would be saving. why did that sad face end up, up there?

Ah yes, initial costs can be expensive but in the long run...

 

[VBdev]

Thank you for this great pictorial qorax.
What i wanted to learn is that, when we want to change the cotton is it possible to do it when there is liquid in the tank? Is it possible to open from the bottom or must the tank be emptied before changing the cotton?

It wasn't designed to be done this way, but I have done it half a dozen times. It's not hard and no biggie. I have two posts in this thread describing how I did it. However I think they both make it look harder than it is.

So yes, you definitely can access the build without emptying the tank. Qorax has some picks too somewhere early in the thread.

 

[jaxgator]

Ok, bummer! I got a call from my boss about a production issue after I arrived home. I have been working remotely from home for the last 4 hours. It's Friday and I want to just go and have a drink and relax so my rewicking will probably not start until the morning.

No worries though as I have the Plume Veil at .8Ω running at 22w on the eVic supreme so I am good to go for the night.

 

[jaxgator]

It wasn't designed to be done this way, but I have done it half a dozen times. It's not hard and no biggie. I have two posts in this thread describing how I did it. However I think they both make it look harder than it is.

So yes, you definitely can access the build without emptying the tank. Qorax has some picks too somewhere early in the thread.

Really? I must've forgotten your posts because I have read this entire thread. My bad. I didn't know that it could be done. Thanks for clarifying that.

 

[MaxUT]

Ah yes, initial costs can be expensive but in the long run...

... you spend a whole lot more!

 

[VBdev]

Really? I must've forgotten your posts because I have read this entire thread. My bad. I didn't know that it could be done. Thanks for clarifying that.

Must be a gator issue Sorry but you left yourself wide open for that, had to take the layup.

It's really easy, I think the trick is to get the drip tip tight then unscrew the whole top piece so the chimney is unscrewing too, and make sure you push the tank down so it goes with the top...the overly winded posts below were literally after my first and second times doing it. I barely think about it now, just look at what your doing.

I rebuilt today without emptying the tank again. No problems.
-I had to tighten down a bit(top then tip, tip very tight)
-Had to push top and bottom together while unscrewing to get the chimney to loosen, just to get that initial chimney turn
-Remember to push tank from bottom section to top section while separating or you'll empty your tank all over you.
-tiny metal ring stayed in place fine while putting back together
-watch the o-rings and alternate between screwing and squeezing top to bottom to get tank on both o-rings right. Tighten down from top after reasonably snug

I successfully got to my build and redid it with a full tank today. It can definitely be done. It wasn't difficult. I was playing with twisted wire and higher vs lower ohms as a learning noob. Hey qorax, that 32awg is nice twisted. Builds 3+4 good to go, got my coil confidence on now.

When I say top I mean where the drip tip goes and when I say base I mean where the coil and wick go...but it's upside down...just to be clear the "top" is at the bottom for most of my description below.

some mental notes. while removing base
-understand the components and how they go together, think about what's unscrewing, what you want to stay tight, and the o-rings touching the tank.
-use the right tension and pressure on top cap and drip tip to get the chimney to unscrew from base, watch chimney. You want chimney unscrewing; not top cap and/or drip tip. May have to play with drip tip tightness.
-while unscrewing, the tank wanted to to stay with the base instead of the top cap. I let the top cap separate a tad (O-ring's keeping the juice from leaking) and then pushed the tank from the base to the top section. O ring at base clearly let go and top o-ring grabbed on; watch the tank. It's like a dripper cap, you can feel it get seated right on the o-ring. Absolutely no leaking and I had a decent gap.
-when unscrewing the top keep your eyes on the chimney, make sure it is unscrewing off the base. After tank was on the top and not the base, the base was wanting to turn so I either held that or unscrewed from there.
-the tiny metal ring stayed on the chimney when the base came out, no prob grabbing it with tweezers

and putting back on...
-the tiny metal ring stayed on the base fine with the fresh wick. I keep it fluffy where bending down into the vertical channels so that grabbed it fine. It's lighter than a feather. No prob there, and before this step I was thinking this would be the issue.
-when screwing back on I was gentle, didn't want to knock the tiny ring loose, prolly not a problem though. Remember to screw with the drip tip and top cap sticking together.
-as screwing gets tight and tank is meeting the o-ring, twist a tad then squeeze together and repeat. Encourage the tank onto the o-ring properly; perhaps serenade it.
-realize when the tanks on the o-rings it's not going to leak
-gripping the base while screwing wasn't a problem with the stock tank, hmmm wonder about the wider ones. There's not a lot to grab.
-you can tighten everything up from the top cap after o-ring is reasonably seated in tank.


My list is probably making this look much worse then it was. It was easy and not a problem. So here-s the condensed how to
-Understand the gadget and look at what you're doing.

 

[qorax]

Thank you for this great pictorial qorax.
What i wanted to learn is that, when we want to change the cotton is it possible to do it when there is liquid in the tank? Is it possible to open from the bottom or must the tank be emptied before changing the cotton?

Hi, as vbDev has correctly opined (and described) it is plausible. But needs some practice - and initial efforts could fall into a mess since the Erlk was not designed for this escapade.

 

[VBdev]

Here's how I think about the top components.

Drip tip tight, unscrew the top (not tip), the chimney will unscrew to access build, but flip it over after loose of course
loosen drip tip and unscrew and it opens ports to fill
loosen drip tip, unscrew and open ports, then keep unscrewing and you will remove the whole top piece.

And the tank will tend to stay with the build section so if you are accessing the build you have to push the tank towards the top with drip tip (upside down)