The Erlkönigin : PICTORIAL

[JeepR KReapR]

My Erlk wouldn't make contact with my ProVari Mini Ti without that little washer. And that was with the AFC completely removed.

You're talking about the kit I linked to with the open positive pole insulator, and not just the clear plastic washer that came with the Erlk yes?

I want to either screw the AFC all the way in and put this modified 510 pole insulator/washer in for airflow or just remove the AFC. Trying to figure out the advantages/disadvantages of each. Could be a zero sum game with the same outcome. Which is why the existence of this kit on the Erlk site confuses me


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[DreamWithin]

Is there any advantage to using the positive pole washer for mods with AFC over just taking the AFC ring off entirely? This is the part on the site I'm referring to:

Positive pole option set for mods with AFC-EK-023

Basically you completely close the AFC ring (shutting off airflow) then put this washer in to allow unrestricted airflow through the 510 post connection. My thoughts are this could potentially lessen the extent of a chimney leak over no AFC if I were to have one. On the downside the amount of air allowed through this modified washer is probably not as much as there is with no AFC whatsoever....

Discuss!

I suspect you would have much more airflow with the AFC ring removed than by closing it and using this kit. Just guessing based on the size of the air channels. I don't think this kit would give you any benefit other than in the case of its intended use (on a mod with its own air control at the 510 connector) if you like an open draw

I don't think it would "lessen the extent of a chimney leak", myself When the Erlk floods, the juice would block the airflow path far more easily with that kit I would think, making subsequent draws pull even more juice into the chamber and worsening the flood. With the design of the AFC ring and the multiple inlets for air under it that phenomenon is not as pronounced and, in my experience, can still be vaped without exacerbating the situation too much

Hoping I understood your question correctly

 

[rcbell.N51]

Ok, so the ErlK/ErlPs using 2mm ekowool & the bridge wick method is working fab! 2 refills later on all 4 tanks and no leaks, tons of vape and flavor.

I have another question for the Erl's court.

Is there any advantage to using the positive pole washer for mods with AFC over just taking the AFC ring off entirely? This is the part on the site I'm referring to:

Positive pole option set for mods with AFC-EK-023

Basically you completely close the AFC ring (shutting off airflow) then put this washer in to allow unrestricted airflow through the 510 post connection. My thoughts are this could potentially lessen the extent of a chimney leak over no AFC if I were to have one. On the downside the amount of air allowed through this modified washer is probably not as much as there is with no AFC whatsoever....

Discuss!

My Erlk wouldn't make contact with my ProVari Mini Ti without that little washer. And that was with the AFC completely removed.

You're talking about the kit I linked to with the open positive pole insulator, and not just the clear plastic washer that came with the Erlk yes?

I want to either screw the AFC all the way in and put this modified 510 pole insulator/washer in for airflow or just remove the AFC. Trying to figure out the advantages/disadvantages of each. Could be a zero sum game with the same outcome. Which is why the existence of this kit on the Erlk site confuses me


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ok. Sorry. I read where you said "positive pole washer" and sorta fixated on that not realizing you were talking about the entire positive pole assembly (post holder, insulator, washer, and screw). I used my Erlk with the standard pole holder both with and without the black AFC adjuster, then switched to the open pole holder without AFC, then put the AFC back on. The open draw pole holder without AFC is a slightly (very slightly) more open draw (think 2mm air hole) then the standard pole holder without AFC (1.8 mm air hole). Putting the AFC back on the open pole holder in wide open position makes it about the same as the standard pole holder without AFC. In all configurations I needed the positive pole washer to make contact on my ProVari.

I think what you are calling the washer is what I'm thinking of as the spacer/insulator. The taller, tan part in your link. Maybe? I don't think that's going to have any effect on a leak. I'm relatively certain that any leaking is going to be coming out of the top (notched part) of the 510 piece, the ground terminal.

To be completely honest, I've never really understood how that part that you linked to works. I've been under the impression that the air flows through the notches on the ground terminal (that I linked above) and the two little notches cut out of the underside of the base then into the holes cut into the positive pole holder. Being that that spacer/insulator is located well below the holes on the positive pole holder I've never been able to figure out what difference it makes. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable then I can help here.

As far as leaking goes, I've never really had an issue unless my wicking was not done correctly, in any configuration.

EDIT: Actually, as I look at the part you linked I guess I do understand. It's not round and won't block air coming up through the bottom of the positive holder. As I recall you're also supposed to turn the ground terminal 90 degrees so the notches don't line up with the notches cut in the underside of the base. Effectively blocking air flow at that point, and allowing air to flow through the entire length of the positive pole holder. I think if you're looking at this as a method to resolve a leaking issue, the only thing that's going to happen is that it will leak out of the bottom of the positive pole holder rather then at the top of the ground terminal.

Also... what DreamWithin said (since it was much more succinct and better worded).

 

[JeepR KReapR]

Ok. Sorry. I read where you said "positive pole washer" and sorta fixated on that not realizing you were talking about the entire positive pole assembly (post holder, insulator, washer, and screw). I used my Erlk with the standard pole holder both with and without the black AFC adjuster, then switched to the open pole holder without AFC, then put the AFC back on. The open draw pole holder without AFC is a slightly (very slightly) more open draw (think 2mm air hole) then the standard pole holder without AFC (1.8 mm air hole). Putting the AFC back on the open pole holder in wide open position makes it about the same as the standard pole holder without AFC. In all configurations I needed the positive pole washer to make contact on my ProVari.

I think what you are calling the washer is what I'm thinking of as the spacer/insulator. The taller, tan part in your link. Maybe? I don't think that's going to have any effect on a leak. I'm relatively certain that any leaking is going to be coming out of the top (notched part) of the 510 piece, the ground terminal.

To be completely honest, I've never really understood how that part that you linked to works. I've been under the impression that the air flows through the notches on the ground terminal (that I linked above) and the two little notches cut out of the underside of the base then into the holes cut into the positive pole holder. Being that that spacer/insulator is located well below the holes on the positive pole holder I've never been able to figure out what difference it makes. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable then I can help here.

As far as leaking goes, I've never really had an issue unless my wicking was not done correctly, in any configuration.

EDIT: Actually, as I look at the part you linked I guess I do understand. It's not round and won't block air coming up through the bottom of the positive holder. As I recall you're also supposed to turn the ground terminal 90 degrees so the notches don't line up with the notches cut in the underside of the base. Effectively blocking air flow at that point, and allowing air to flow through the entire length of the positive pole holder. I think if you're looking at this as a method to resolve a leaking issue, the only thing that's going to happen is that it will leak out of the bottom of the positive pole holder rather then at the top of the ground terminal.

Also... what DreamWithin said (since it was much more succinct and better worded).

Thanks to both Dream & rcbell. That's exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for!

I know that no tank based on the vacuum principle that has holes in it to allow airflow will ever be leak proof. I'm still holding to the hope that a simple one way flapper valve will become standard eventually on RTAS so they are completely closed at rest und only open under pressure of the draw through the chimney. Hmmm, perhaps I'll have to fashion something like that!

I've also become confident enough in my wicking to eliminate most leaking scenarios. But I do live in a climate with major temp changes, so leaks do happen. I'm just looking for the configuration the would minimize the damage/juice loss when they eventually do.

It doesn't seem like there is much upside to that insulator/washer kit. Especially at the price plus shipping. I'll probably go with the AFC ring entirely off, since I can only open it to barely the bottom of the air groves on the Erl base and still make a 510 connection with my PV. The Erlk faq says that is the 'open' state (with pictures), but airflow still feels too restricted to me unless I loosen the ring past the point where the bottom of the ring is flush with the bottom or the grooves on the tank.

 

[vapdivrr]

Hey guys I'm back! Hopefully everyone is enjoying the new year and I have missed you all. I had went on vacation and my crew in charge kind of messed things up so when I got back I had issues. Then it was Christmas and just couldn't find the time for anything. I then got the flue, so it's been crazy. Being that I haven't been here in a while I feel so out of touch, I need to catch up to see what's new! Any exciting things going on?

 

[sedge]

Glad your back vapdivrr. You were missed.

The only thing new is everyone has gone back to using Boge cartos. We all finally realized it is vape nirvana.

 

[vapdivrr]

Glad your back vapdivrr. You were missed.

The only thing new is everyone has gone back to using Boge cartos. We all finally realized it is vape nirvana.

I certainly still have a bunch in my vape draw, so if anyone needs a few, lol. I do remember going from a standard boge to a low resistance boge and thinking it was the shizzzz!

 

[vapdivrr]

The erlk is still my favorite and haven't really been doing to much with it except I went from 26g to 24g wire. Using resistances in the .5 range at 25 to 28 watts has been my sweet spot lately. The best thing on the 24g has been the ease of wicking it with rayon. There is absolutely no movement of the coil while pulling the wick thru and I just get a better feel of the rayon amounts when the coil doest budge.

 

[slyphex]

I have some reading to catch up on in this thread, but I finally got my MiniStick by Chels and I wanted to share! I really like the size of the MiniStick without the extender, and they actually now offer a smaller one that fits a kick and a 490 battery - after I had placed my order - oh well.

I'll compare it to my friends MVP2 tomorrow but I am pretty sure my MiniStick with an 18650, kick and fullsize Erlk (as pictured) is smaller overall (width and height). I am really happy with it. I expect it to last a full day, battery and juice-wise and it really does fit in the hand nicely.

I like how it protects the glass tank so I can vape tank-crackers and still be somewhat protected. The base is stable and it's great not worrying about knocking it over

 

[nasca]

ministick?? I love my microstick but...

this changes everything.

 

[slyphex]

You're talking about the kit I linked to with the open positive pole insulator, and not just the clear plastic washer that came with the Erlk yes?

I want to either screw the AFC all the way in and put this modified 510 pole insulator/washer in for airflow or just remove the AFC. Trying to figure out the advantages/disadvantages of each. Could be a zero sum game with the same outcome. Which is why the existence of this kit on the Erlk site confuses me


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I am just confused how this would redirect intake from the ridges in the bottom of the Erlk. Oh I looked at it closer. So that little brown piece fits inside the 510 connection which cuts off air flow from the normal intake, and then there is that tiny little hole toward the edge of the inset that pulls air from your battery compartment.

It is so small, though. I like tight air flow (my favorite atty is the Heron) but even that looks too small I bet it's a lot quieter though

 

[Nic-holio]

Among some other random vapemail today I just got a Coil-Master. If you've been curious about these things, I give it two thumbs, a tentacle, and an appendage-that-can't-be-named-in-polite-company up. If you've never heard of them, it's a small (about the size of a 510 stick battery) coil-making jig that will make a perfect micro-coil in seconds - comes with 5 sizes, so it can make 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, or 3 mm coils effortlessly (and when I say "effortlessly", I mean it - I just wrapped 3 perfect coils in about 45 seconds, total). I don't know if it's the best 15 bucks I've ever spent on vape gear, but it's pretty close.

Yep I've got 2 pre-ordered too from rbasupplies.com. They're supposed to be in and shipping anytime now. Plus, per the update email they sent out to folks who pre-ordered, they made an improvement with alternate screws:

We have been working closely with the manufacturers of the Coil Master to help them improve their product. Through our research we have discovered a simple way for them to offer even more functionality to their current design with an easy change… an alternative set of screws. Because we are their largest customer and because we have played a key role in marketing their product, they have listened to our suggestions and are going to INCLUDE our “upgrade” in each kit that they send us. The addition of the new screws opens up the functionality on thinner gauge wire such as 28, 29, 30, 32, etc.

For now, this is an exclusive upgrade for RBASupplies.com customers that will be included for FREE as a courtesy to you for your patience and to give you the best kit possible! Unfortunately it has caused a slight delay in getting these kits sent to us, but overall, it’s worth the wait. Even if you don’t use thinner gauge wire now, trends always change, and you may in the future, better to have a kit that will do it all, than to have to buy something else down the road.

 

[Pardoz]

Yep I've got 2 pre-ordered too from rbasupplies.com. They're supposed to be in and shipping anytime now. Plus, per the update email they sent out to folks who pre-ordered, they made an improvement with alternate screws:

I'm curious as to what this upgrade is about - mine came with one set of screws (one for each mandrel) but two holes (just move the screw depending on what thickness of wire you're working with). Came installed in the outer (thick wire) hole, moved it to the inner hole, wrapping bootyfool 28g coils with it.

 

[Nic-holio]

Glad your back vapdivrr. You were missed.

The only thing new is everyone has gone back to using Boge cartos. We all finally realized it is vape nirvana.

LOL!

I actually had to switch back to using my old Phiniac + boge cartos for work/road while I wait for my tank glass to arrive. It works but just ain't the same.

 

[jaxgator]

A little off topic but I've got a question for those in the know.

I ordered an Erlthron 18650 Deluxe. Can I order the Deluxe and then just the top piece for the nano? I don't know why I didn't think of doing this when I ordered the Deluxe. If this is possible, I'd like to email i2r to see if they can update my order.

 

[sedge]

Jax. I was wondering the same thing myself.

Also, weren't the orders supposed to ship yesterday?

 

[LoveVanilla]

A little off topic but I've got a question for those in the know.

I ordered an Erlthron 18650 Deluxe. Can I order the Deluxe and then just the top piece for the nano? I don't know why I didn't think of doing this when I ordered the Deluxe. If this is possible, I'd like to email i2r to see if they can update my order.

+1 My thoughts exactly. Also is wide-open air flow the same or increased? Maybe easier to increase flow (since size of 510 post not be the constraint)?

 

[Nic-holio]

Hey guys I'm back! Hopefully everyone is enjoying the new year and I have missed you all. I had went on vacation and my crew in charge kind of messed things up so when I got back I had issues. Then it was Christmas and just couldn't find the time for anything. I then got the flue, so it's been crazy. Being that I haven't been here in a while I feel so out of touch, I need to catch up to see what's new! Any exciting things going on?

Welcome back vapdivrr!!!

 

[Nic-holio]

Yep I've got 2 pre-ordered too from rbasupplies.com. They're supposed to be in and shipping anytime now. Plus, per the update email they sent out to folks who pre-ordered, they made an improvement with alternate screws:

Not sure -- no additional info so far but when I get mine I'll take some pics. Pretty excited about getting these. I haven't done "too too bad" wrapping around drill bits - and I am not sure if it's going to be possible to get anything like a spaced coil with these (ie, the wraps are separated slightly from each other) but I bet very uniform and tight wraps is a big plus -- in my noob-esque estimation.

 

[Nic-holio]

Aww-aww... chicka-chickahh.... Ohh yeahh.....

Prism Blue IBTanked Erlkonigin tank tube

SO glad to be back in business with the Erlkonigin and vaping with nice clouds and lotsa flavor!

The IBTanked glass is quite nice and the containers they ship the tubes in are great. I can also see why it's so easy to break the glass if your mod falls over or something - the glass is the largest diameter of anything on my mod. So if it falls over, guess what hits first?

Have some grey vape bands on the way too. Hopefully here tomorrow. I'd rather not put them on, but I'd also rather not break my glass, LOL. (I did buy some spares though).

Not sure if Prism Blue is still the Prism series color they have on sale but I got a couple of them for +$1.75 each on the color option.