The Erlkönigin : PICTORIAL

[tchavei]

I'd LOVE to get the specs for the screws that hold the coil down on the Erlk. The stock philips ones are good but a hex or torx head would be better...

I was told they are the same as the kayfun ones so finding the specs of one should be enough.

I think the screws on the erlk are JIS rather than Philips.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Nic-holio]

cool. haha I am OK with whatever standard the threads etc. comply with.. JIS, metric, SAE... whatever. Would just like to know what they are, so I can search around for other screws with the same threads but better heads for our purposes.

It's easy when it's a larger screw and you can just walk into the local home improvement and stick your screw into the thread gauge so you know what you need to match...

PS: have never had a kayfun so... I'd have to search for screw specs on the kayfun

 

[tchavei]

Actually it's the head...

JIS and Philips look almost the same but are different. A JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) driver will work on both Philips and JIS screws but a Philips driver will start to strip a JIS screw head.
The difference is how the cross wall between each adjacent arm is made. Philips heads are angled because they were designed to tighten up to at certain torque at which the driver will slip out. Call it basic torque mechanism.
The JIS screws however are cut strait between the adjacent arms and are used in the automotive industry as they allow being tighten down further without stripping.

When in doubt, always use a JIS driver because it won't damage either screw.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[tchavei]

A pic is worth a thousand words so:

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[WhiteHighlights]

A pic is worth a thousand words so:

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Thanks Tony. I didn't know the difference. I'll make sure I have a JIS in my vape kit.

 

[jaxgator]

Hey, Jax, Q!!! I finally got the real deal. about to coil her, wick her, see how wet I can get her. Then pop her cherry. lol

Congrats Juggsy! How's she vaping?

 

[Elyptic]

I'm right on the verge of ordering an Erl, but have a few questions.

1. For those who run the authentic with nickel builds, are there any issues? I'll be running this on a VaporShark rDNA-40.
2. Anything I need beyond what's included in the standard package? I see options for "positive pole spacer" and "open draw pole". Are these needed?
3. With thinner juices (50% pg / 50% vg), can you reliably fill without it flooding / leaking? My only experience was with a cheap clone which had more issues than I care to remember...

Thanks!

 

[Pardoz]

I'm right on the verge of ordering an Erl, but have a few questions.

Can't speak to 1 (don't have a TC device).

For 2...not really, depending on how open you like your airflow. About the only add-ons I'd consider seriously would be a DT adapter (if you don't like the included one or like to play around with your own) and maybe a SS tank if you'd prefer a 22/23mm tank (if you want 22 mm IBTanked and Spectrum Tanks both make excellent replacement glass tanks - they hold around 6 ml, but are around 22 mm OD). Nano kit is also an option if that's something that appeals to you. None of this stuff is really necessary, though. If you're not in the EU, and ordering direct from I2R, consider picking up any accessories that look interesting, since they can be a pain to find in stock at US resellers, so you can save some pennies on shipping.

3) Absolutely - my go-to mix is 50/50, and I've never had a leak. I used to sometimes get a little bit of flooding on the initial fill, so now i close off the AFC, fill, blow a quick puff through the DT before sealing the topcap, then seal and open the AFC. I'd sometimes get a bit of gurgling on my first few hits before I started doing this, especially if I took my time filling, but have had no issues at all since I started. Never had any flooding/gurgling issues when topping up/re-filling the tank, and any first-fill gurgles usually cleared within a couple of draws even before I started preemptively de-flooding.

 

[Elyptic]

Can't speak to 1 (don't have a TC device).

For 2...not really, depending on how open you like your airflow. About the only add-ons I'd consider seriously would be a DT adapter (if you don't like the included one or like to play around with your own) and maybe a SS tank if you'd prefer a 22/23mm tank (if you want 22 mm IBTanked and Spectrum Tanks both make excellent replacement glass tanks - they hold around 6 ml, but are around 22 mm OD). Nano kit is also an option if that's something that appeals to you. None of this stuff is really necessary, though. If you're not in the EU, and ordering direct from I2R, consider picking up any accessories that look interesting, since they can be a pain to find in stock at US resellers, so you can save some pennies on shipping.

3) Absolutely - my go-to mix is 50/50, and I've never had a leak. I used to sometimes get a little bit of flooding on the initial fill, so now i close off the AFC, fill, blow a quick puff through the DT before sealing the topcap, then seal and open the AFC. I'd sometimes get a bit of gurgling on my first few hits before I started doing this, especially if I took my time filling, but have had no issues at all since I started. Never had any flooding/gurgling issues when topping up/re-filling the tank, and any first-fill gurgles usually cleared within a couple of draws even before I started preemptively de-flooding.

Thank you so much!

I'm planning on running this on a box mod (VS rDNA40), so I'm not overly concerned with diameter. And it seems that I can get good quality tanks here in the US for cheaper than I2R, so I think I'll go that route.

So far, I have the steel drip tip version in my shopping cart along with a spare o-ring set (I understand they come with no spares) and a drip tip adapter. I'm considering the nano kit and the open draw post, but I'm not really sure if I'd need either one...

Decisions, decisions!

Edit: And now I'm half considering throwing an Earlprinz into the order too... With 19 euro shipping, I'd rather get everything in one go!

 

[qorax]

Erlk and TP ~ Ah, whatta Pleasure!

28gauge Ni200 wrapped over a 2.5mm mini-screwdriver

2. The Cold Ohms:

3. The Wick:

4. Build Juiced:

5. Vapor Production:

 

[Pardoz]

So far, I have the steel drip tip version in my shopping cart along with a spare o-ring set (I understand they come with no spares) and a drip tip adapter. I'm considering the nano kit and the open draw post, but I'm not really sure if I'd need either one...

Mentioning this thread may still be good for a set of spare O-rings (was when I ordered last July), and you could pick up a lifetime supply of extras for about $5 (sizes and links in first post.). Might also consider a spare AFC ring (if you plan on using it and depending on how tight a draw you like - I'm quite sure the only reason I haven't lost mine yet is because I ordered a spare...)



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[Elyptic]

Erlk and TP ~ Ah, whatta Pleasure!

This is what I'm hoping! Awesome photos by the way!

I've found that the DNA-40 chip is very sensitive to connections, and most of my atomizers aren't really cutting it. I have a Kayfun and a Russian 91% that seem to offer a suitably stable connection, but I'm looking for something a bit more and I'm hoping the Erlk is it!

 

[Elyptic]

Mentioning this thread may still be good for a set of spare O-rings (was when I ordered last July), and you could pick up a lifetime supply of extras for about $5 (sizes and links in first post.). Might also consider a spare AFC ring (if you plan on using it and depending on how tight a draw you like - I'm quite sure the only reason I haven't lost mine yet is because I ordered a spare...)

Lol. Whenever I don't have spares, things disappear. But for the life of me I can't seem to lose things when I have a spare handy. Good point!

 

[qorax]

This is what I'm hoping! Awesome photos by the way!

I've found that the DNA-40 chip is very sensitive to connections, and most of my atomizers aren't really cutting it. I have a Kayfun and a Russian 91% that seem to offer a suitably stable connection, but I'm looking for something a bit more and I'm hoping the Erlk is it!

Thank you brother

 

[qorax]

I'm right on the verge of ordering an Erl, but have a few questions.

1. For those who run the authentic with nickel builds, are there any issues? I'll be running this on a VaporShark rDNA-40.
2. Anything I need beyond what's included in the standard package? I see options for "positive pole spacer" and "open draw pole". Are these needed?
3. With thinner juices (50% pg / 50% vg), can you reliably fill without it flooding / leaking? My only experience was with a cheap clone which had more issues than I care to remember...

Thanks!

O' wow, whatta coincidence! I was uploading my TP build pics and you posted queries regarding the subject at the same time I see that Pardoz has got you covered on the other points already ~ if there's anything further on the TP mode pls shoot.

 

[Elyptic]

O' wow, whatta coincidence! I was uploading my TP build pics and you posted queries regarding the subject at the same time I see that Pardoz has got you covered on the other points already ~ if there's anything further on the TP mode pls shoot.

Lol. Serious coincidence!

I notice that you're not spacing out your nickel wraps. I assume it's been working well for you, but do you have to do anything special to eliminate the shorts? Perhaps I was doing something else wrong, but I always struggle to get a stable resistance if I don't space them out.

 

[qorax]

Lol. Serious coincidence!

I notice that you're not spacing out your nickel wraps. I assume it's been working well for you, but do you have to do anything special to eliminate the shorts? Perhaps I was doing something else wrong, but I always struggle to get a stable resistance if I don't space them out.

I love microcoils, thus didn't attempt spaced ones at all. I don't see any issues with a contact / compact coil if you double-wrap the wire ends around the terminals.

And btw, I had "work hardened" the Ni200 (by vigorously scraping it thru a pair of tweezers) before wrapping around the bit. With that most of it's springiness disappeared and it worked pretty much like a regular Kanthal wire.

 

[Elyptic]

I love microcoils, thus didn't attempt spaced ones at all. I don't see any issues with a contact / compact coil if you double-wrap the wire ends around the terminals.

And btw, I had "work hardened" the Ni200 (by vigorously scraping it thru a pair of tweezers) before wrapping around the bit. With that most of it's springiness disappeared and it worked pretty much like a regular Kanthal wire.

Thanks for the info.

I've gotten some pretty good results using 28 gauge nickel (spaced coils) in my Lemo Drop. In fact, when it worked, the nickel has been amazing for flavor and temp protection is a huge leap forward, in my humble opinion.

It looks like the build deck is slightly smaller on the Erlk, so I'm guessing that perhaps I'll have to experiment with contact nickel coils.

 

[qorax]

Thanks for the info.

I've gotten some pretty good results using 28 gauge nickel (spaced coils) in my Lemo Drop. In fact, when it worked, the nickel has been amazing for flavor and temp protection is a huge leap forward, in my humble opinion.

It looks like the build deck is slightly smaller on the Erlk, so I'm guessing that perhaps I'll have to experiment with contact nickel coils.

Contact coils also make it easy to insert the wicking material (without a/ny risk of deforming the coil). I use Rayon, which is inserted with a thicker density than cotton (nearly 50% more), thus a microcoil makes it easier to work with.

 

[Elyptic]

Well, it's done. Order placed.

Got the steel drip tip version. Added a o-ring seal kit, drip tip adapter, and a clear glass tank.

Now to wait for it to ship!