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Cut the mesh off from the top.The shorter the mesh the less it will bend or touch the inside of tank.
If the mesh wick is properly oxidized, it shouldn't matter if it hits the sides of the hole, or the tank.
The wire still touches and it does still short out.I had a problem with my DID clone doing the same thing.
Not properly oxidixed and until it is you will have problems unfortunately.
I'm totally confused now lol. When I watched re wicking videos for z atty pro he says not to let the wick touch the bottom. What I have found on the Birkshire so far, unless I have a faulty one, is that the stainless steel tank is the ground because the coil will not fire without the tank installed.
And the main issue im having is that the hole that the ss wick goes in is to big for the wick. So the wick just kinda falls in. Any ideas how to tighten that up?
On DID and the clones as long as 1 wire goes to ground screw and 1 wire goes to center positive thumbscrew and its hooked to device it will fire. The stainless tank has nothing to do with it .
For example many have clear tank. ; )
As for hole being to big for mesh wick you can roll a bigger diameter wick but even if there is airspace around wick it does not do anything to the electrical circuit.
Figured this was easier. See the gap between the wick and wick hole? I know what your saying, but if wick is any thicker it will hit the inside because the hold is very close to the side.
ok let me try wrapping again. It didn't fire at all and was saying open when the tank was off. Put the tank back on and fired right up, then shorted out to power (top screw)
If I wick and coil it with the tank installed like this and am very careful not to touch the wick it fires fine 
If I wick and coil it like this the coil does not fire
If I wick and coil it like this the coil does not fire
you may want to do some reading here on the forums before you go any farther with that mesh... I think I put a post with links to some pertinent threads in the monster mesh thread they are long but full of good info, or just do a search for 500 ss mesh and the one started by BJ43 (i think that's his name) will come up, its long as heck but very informative. Also do a search for calling all genisis pros, much shorter and has very good tips as well.
As far as your wick, do you have extra ss mesh? If not I wouldn't worry about it. When you are making your coil I would recommend trying to find a drill bit or jewelers screwdriver to wrap your coil around that is barely bigger than your SS mesh wick. Wrap the coil tight, then with the (in this instance) screwdriver still in the coil connect the wires to the neg post then tighten the wire and attach to the positive post. CHECK YOUR OHMS after you pull out the driver, find out what the resistance is minus the wick.
Pull the driver out and gently slide the wick in, it should go in with slight pressure, but if you have to force it its too tight, plus you will deform the coils. if the coil is tight then it will hold your wick steady. Push the wick till it touches the bottom.
Put your mod on its lowest setting, 3v is ideal, pulse the power button and look for any flares, that indicates a short using a toothpick, ever so slightly nudge it up or down then check your ohms, it should be at what the ohms were before you inserted the wick. Generally the place you will have the most shorts is the top coil, and right along the edge of the mesh, you can also get shorts where the wire is too tight on the mesh wick, it will also burn right through the wicks outer layer if too tight.
Keep nudging and after each nudge check your ohms or just pulse the power button to find each successive short till you get the coils all glowing evenly.
I dunno if this is what everyone else does but I do and it helps ME. drip 3-4 drops in the coil and wait a sec for the wick to absorb the juice. push the power button and blow on the coil area if you see a flare up you have a new short, nudge and do this again, and again and again. once you don't get shorts with juice and blowing you should be set, and your ohms should match what they were before you inserted the wick, if not you prolly have a short somewhere, but if it holds steady and coils are all glowing and it doesn't match the exact same ohm... just go with it and vape on it.
As far as your wick, do you have extra ss mesh? If not I wouldn't worry about it. When you are making your coil I would recommend trying to find a drill bit or jewelers screwdriver to wrap your coil around that is barely bigger than your SS mesh wick. Wrap the coil tight, then with the (in this instance) screwdriver still in the coil connect the wires to the neg post then tighten the wire and attach to the positive post. CHECK YOUR OHMS after you pull out the driver, find out what the resistance is minus the wick.
Pull the driver out and gently slide the wick in, it should go in with slight pressure, but if you have to force it its too tight, plus you will deform the coils. if the coil is tight then it will hold your wick steady. Push the wick till it touches the bottom.
Put your mod on its lowest setting, 3v is ideal, pulse the power button and look for any flares, that indicates a short using a toothpick, ever so slightly nudge it up or down then check your ohms, it should be at what the ohms were before you inserted the wick. Generally the place you will have the most shorts is the top coil, and right along the edge of the mesh, you can also get shorts where the wire is too tight on the mesh wick, it will also burn right through the wicks outer layer if too tight.
Keep nudging and after each nudge check your ohms or just pulse the power button to find each successive short till you get the coils all glowing evenly.
I dunno if this is what everyone else does but I do and it helps ME. drip 3-4 drops in the coil and wait a sec for the wick to absorb the juice. push the power button and blow on the coil area if you see a flare up you have a new short, nudge and do this again, and again and again. once you don't get shorts with juice and blowing you should be set, and your ohms should match what they were before you inserted the wick, if not you prolly have a short somewhere, but if it holds steady and coils are all glowing and it doesn't match the exact same ohm... just go with it and vape on it.
Check to make sure "center tube" that the positive pin goes thru is fully into top and bottom cap as this completes the circuit to the outside thread on your 510 threaded connector, its possible that with the tank on your completing the circuit to the threads of the 510 connector and with it off you are not.
Thats that tubes job and why there are insulators on top and bottom in the caps to prevent the center pin from shorting out on the inside of it.
In other words the tube is supposed to complete the circuit down to the threads of your connector but the tank is doing it instead and with it off you lose the ground therefore not firing.
Thats that tubes job and why there are insulators on top and bottom in the caps to prevent the center pin from shorting out on the inside of it.
In other words the tube is supposed to complete the circuit down to the threads of your connector but the tank is doing it instead and with it off you lose the ground therefore not firing.
Oh thank god you guys are still up lol, cuase I still am. Still messing around with this.
Ok sooo.... I have read and seen many many videos on rewicking and recoiling but I think I'm just getting frustrated now. I mean for god sakes I worked on Audis for 12 years and not sure if you guys know about German electrical systems, but they are not the easiest... so now I get this little 4 inch wire messing me all up in the head. I'm wrapping it 4-5 times and my fluke meter is reading about 4 ohms, now when I fire it at say 3.5 volts I immediately get a hot spot in between the positive post and the wick (its not even making it around one loop of the coil) So I fiddle around with the coils a bit and try again, same thing. If I fire it for about a second then it pops.
I'm gonna take it all apart and start from fresh, it came put together so I figured it was put together the correct way (maybe I'm wrong lol)
Ok sooo.... I have read and seen many many videos on rewicking and recoiling but I think I'm just getting frustrated now. I mean for god sakes I worked on Audis for 12 years and not sure if you guys know about German electrical systems, but they are not the easiest... so now I get this little 4 inch wire messing me all up in the head. I'm wrapping it 4-5 times and my fluke meter is reading about 4 ohms, now when I fire it at say 3.5 volts I immediately get a hot spot in between the positive post and the wick (its not even making it around one loop of the coil) So I fiddle around with the coils a bit and try again, same thing. If I fire it for about a second then it pops.
I'm gonna take it all apart and start from fresh, it came put together so I figured it was put together the correct way (maybe I'm wrong lol)
Before you take apart try just grabbing the top of the wick with tweezers and slightly turn the wick, you prob have a fray wire touching somewhere.
And now g'night
And now g'night
The factory oxidized it ? Geeez
My suggestion is toss it and roll your own and oxidize it your self and work from there.
Before tossing it measure it so you have an idea how big of diameter you want to make your new one.
If your having problems afterwards PM me if you like and i can tell you what works excellent for me its very simple process on the stove.
Ok so I finally got it going.... kinda lol. I ended up oxidizing the wick more, about 6 times more to the point that it wouldn't pop the coil in 1/2 a second.
I'm pretty sure I have to play with the wicks more, as it doesn't really taste all that well, and I think the bottom 2 coils are not heating up. I'll try to wrap another coil in a little bit and let you know how it goes.
I'm pretty sure I have to play with the wicks more, as it doesn't really taste all that well, and I think the bottom 2 coils are not heating up. I'll try to wrap another coil in a little bit and let you know how it goes.
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