The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group

[Ed_C]

I don't have pics but I use Mini PT2s and Evods and I think they look good. The corners of the top of the VV are rounded off so they fit quit nicely. The Mini PT2s are a little heavy so it's a bit top heavy, but it really doesn't bother me. I really like mine.

 

[McFeely]

Hi All,
I recently sold a few of my mods, and I'm looking for something "small," with vv, which brings me here. I'm very close to buying one of these to try out, but one thing is bothering me: I'm not sure how it will look with several tanks that I use. I've been using mini-Protanks, Evods, and most recently, Aspire BDC's, I just can't picture how these "round" tanks will look with the "square" itaste. Anyone have any pics of the itaste with these tanks? Thanks in advance.

I don't own an aspire but here are the others

 

[Katdarling]

Hi All,
I recently sold a few of my mods, and I'm looking for something "small," with vv, which brings me here. I'm very close to buying one of these to try out, but one thing is bothering me: I'm not sure how it will look with several tanks that I use. I've been using mini-Protanks, Evods, and most recently, Aspire BDC's, I just can't picture how these "round" tanks will look with the "square" itaste. Anyone have any pics of the itaste with these tanks? Thanks in advance.

I think the VV looks marvey with a round tank.

 

[p.opus]

Mini Protank II with itaste vv 3 black six rivet model........very nice.

 

[chrismikehead]

I use various Kanger round tanks with mine (EVOD, Mini PT 2, T3s), and they all look good. The black EVODs look the best with it IMO.

Hell, even a ProTank 2 doesn't look too bad. A bit top heavy, but not a deal breaker.

 

[sneakerpimp]

round works... IGO-F

 

[peraspera]

Taste test: I have 2 VV-3's and 2 MVP2's all set at the same wattage and I tried the same juice using a Mini ProTank2. Between the 4 mods the VV-3's IMO has the better taste. How can this be? I don't know but I enjoy the taste from the VV-3's better. Both the MVP and VV-3 take 5 turns to put on the Mini Protank so I'm baffled, but I do notice a taste difference.

It might be a difference in how the MVP and VV 3.0s are calibrated but my money would be on differences in builds between the ProTanks. That can make a noticeable difference in performance. Also, dirty coils versus clean ones will perform quite differently .

 

[McFeely]

mvp wattage seems to run a bit hotter than most.

 

[Mike.S]

mvp wattage seems to run a bit hotter than most.

...like it's not adjustable.

 

[McFeely]

...like it's not adjustable.

I realize it is adjustable, but my comment was about the guy using the same wattage and tank on a vv3 and an mvp and wondering why the vv3 tasted better. Its been mentioned mvp wattage runs hotter than most in a few reviews, so that might explain his difference in taste.

 

[amoret]

MVP has the same issue, its more of a problem with over tightening and different tanks not being equal.

I don't see how the connection button problem would just be a problem with over tightening or different tanks when I have two itaste vvs that I alternate between and it never happens on one of them and frequently happens on the other one. So, if I get an MVP is it also a 50/50 chance? I'm seriously asking, since as much as I like these I'm not sure how much poor quality control I'm willing to invest in.

 

[McFeely]

I don't see how the connection button problem would just be a problem with over tightening or different tanks when I have two itaste vvs that I alternate between and it never happens on one of them and frequently happens on the other one. So, if I get an MVP is it also a 50/50 chance? I'm seriously asking, since as much as I like these I'm not sure how much poor quality control I'm willing to invest in.

It depends if you use a lot of ego connections and 510 connections. Example: I have a few protank minis if I over tighten them they can push the center post down. If I switch to my protank or my igo-L (which uses the 510 connections) I will sometimes get the NON thingy, and i will have to push the rubber grommet under the center post to lift it back up. Most 510 connections are the same where ego connections sometimes differ depending on the maker.

Edit to clarify: if you only use ego tanks you may never need to mess with the center post, same goes if you only use 510 connections like the standard protank. Its the switching between the two where this problem may arise.

 

[amoret]

It depends if you use a lot of ego connections and 510 connections. Example: I have a few protank minis if I over tighten them they can push the center post down. If I switch to my protank or my igo-L (which uses the 510 connections) I will sometimes get the NON thingy, and i will have to push the rubber grommet under the center post to lift it back up. Most 510 connections are the same where ego connections sometimes differ depending on the maker.

Edit to clarify: if you only use ego tanks you may never need to mess with the center post, same goes if you only use 510 connections like the standard protank. Its the switching between the two where this problem may arise.

Thanks for responding. Actually, when I started having problems I was only using 510s. Now I have both, but it's no better or worse. Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to figure out what's going on.

 

[McFeely]

Thanks for responding. Actually, when I started having problems I was only using 510s. Now I have both, but it's no better or worse. Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to figure out what's going on.

Its no biggie this is just what I've discovered through my own personal trial and error.

 

[Jonner]

Thank you for the pics, I guess I'll be buying one of these sometime today, there goes the money....

 

[tonyorion]

I have been using ego style vv with bottom coils when out and about, which is a lot. I just do not want to schlepp a lot of the paraphernalia with me associated with RBA's when travelling. The BC's satisfy my inner drive to mod and yet are a real easy swap of a burned out coil in the field.

My ego's are not vw, but at the market prices of the itaste vv, it was just not worth it. Comes Black Friday................and I saw them on Vapor World for $29, so I bought 2 and an MVP 2 at $39. I have the SVD from Innoken and was impressed with the quality of that unit. They arrived today. I have only had them for a few hours, but I must say that I am impressed. These are version 3's.

My cell phone, headset, and Kindle are all micro usb, so this is one less cable I have to worry about. The retractable cable supplied with the unit is really nifty. Such cables are around $5-$10 as stand alone items.


The pass through is nice, although I would never hook up anything to my PC to charge. I am also impressed with the MVP 2. That came with an Iclear 30. It is certainly better than the other top coils I have tried, but I prefer my modded Kanger's.

Overall, I would give this a 9 out 10. If they made a mod with 4000 mAh in the same size, I would give it a 20/10. It packs a lot of features in a small package, but at 800 mAh, I just wish it had a little more staying power, but that is a limit of the battery technology more than the device. If you are a chain vaper, that is not a lot.

Still, it's a great little unit.

 

[XJ-linux]

I've noticed with all my iTaste devices + Protank 2's... if you take the coil/wick out, wipe it down quickly, and then screw it back in to the tank again, it often times fixes everything from a weak airy draw to burnt taste. My V3 and VTR seem to be finicky on how I assemble anything "Kanger". Everything has it's quirks I guess. Even my Jeep needs coaxing sometimes to get into gear. Go figure.

 

[p.opus]

I've noticed with all my iTaste devices + Protank 2's... if you take the coil/wick out, wipe it down quickly, and then screw it back in to the tank again, it often times fixes everything from a weak airy draw to burnt taste. My V3 and VTR seem to be finicky on how I assemble anything "Kanger". Everything has it's quirks I guess. Even my Jeep needs coaxing sometimes to get into gear. Go figure.

I must have gotten REALLY lucky. My Mini Protank 2's on my itaste vv3 perform flawlessly.

I've run 100 % PG apple to Bobba's Bounty through my tanks and never had a problem. The Boba's did tighten the draw due to it's thickness.

Of course, I probably clean my tanks more often than others. I have three tanks in rotation. One is on my device, and two are filled with refills. When I finish a tank, I disassemble it completely and rinse it off in hot tap water and dry it thoroughly. Dry burn a couple times to dry the wick and reassemble.

Once a week, I then take the empty tank and disassemble it and boil it in water for 5 minutes then dry, dry burn the wick and reassemble.

I have had these tanks for over two weeks and haven't had to replace a head yet. I currently have 24 heads sitting "in standby". At this rate, I won't need to buy heads for a year. I'm pretty sure I will be buying some Kanthal and silica to rebuild the head just so I know how to do it...

 

[Gaspar74]

I'm having issues mine stopped working after a day. It reads Non for ohms and even attaching tanks is a ...... The center pin out too much pressure seeing its spring loaded. I've tried screwing it in unscrewing. Doesn't seem to move at all. Any idea. The green light lights up and display but no firing. W

 

[peraspera]

It sounds like the center post on your VV 3.0 got pushed down too far or the pin inside your tank that makes the 510 connection got pushed too far inside the device. You can use a flat-blade eyeglass repair screwdriver to leverage your VV 3.0's center post up just a smidge (≤.5 mm. above the white plastic insulator) or pull your tank's connector pin out so it is flush.

Be extremely gentle when attaching juice delivery devices to any PV but particularly to any eGo style battery. It's easy to push their 510 center post down too far.

None of my three VV 3.0s (early models without the 6 rivets) seem to have spring-loaded center pins and I don't think the two I gifted did either.