My latest creation: 99.994% pure platinum wire. After I coiled it, I placed it in the particle accelerator at C.E.R.N. to re-align the atomic structure (yet still manage to hold it's current form) to create the beautiful colors you see here.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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The New Official Post Your Coil Porn Thread
- Thread starter Tom Forde
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Crazy 
Tom i think Mistaree has been making a genuine mistake, she did it a few times on the post your coil & wick thread
Tom i think Mistaree has been making a genuine mistake, she did it a few times on the post your coil & wick thread
Nothing crazy here but it's the first time I've vaped on a mech for a couple of months, this coil Feels a lot hotter than 0.1ohms Jeeze!
" and type your response. I'm getting confused on what your replying to sometimes.
Are you telling me that Mistaree didnt make those coils
[/QUOTE]LOL I wishhh
No I did not, but I will soon have my own pics to post
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Gentlemen, my frustration and failures with aliens and staple builds have resulted in a 5 dollar expenditure of a wire vise for my drill. Wish me luck, hopefully I will be going the elite ranks soon...
Have you tried with swivels?
Have you tried the way i do it where i use no swivels for the end furthest from the drill, i leave them loose, i put the 3 main wires into the chuck or a wire vise and that into the chuck, all three wires are aligned but then i seperate them so the middle one stays in line with the nose of the drill and the other two i splay on about a 45 degree angle from the middle wire, the two outside wires are about at a 90degree from each other with the center wire in the middle of the two.
Doing it this way for me helps get a good few wraps layed at the beginning while the mains are coming together, but as with the other way you cant allow the main wires to triangle, i cant usually come back from it once this starts but you can unwrap that part then seperate the wires once again to take another run at it.
At the very beginning of the wrapping i put very little tension if any on the decored clapton wire and then once i see its laying and the 3 main wires are staying parallel i speed up the drill and i support the aliened part of the wire with my finger, obviously if you touch any of the three main wires they will begin to triangle.
i'm by no means an expert and im not saying my way is best as most of the time it doesnt want to play nicely but its the only way i can alien personally and it may be the same for you
just dont give up, sometime it may take me 4-5 times before the magic happens
My issue is the three cores triangle as soon as I fire the drill. Something about the way they are sitting in the chuck just pulls them together. I do use swivels...and I've tried a few different ways of securing the three cores to the swivel all with the same bunching results. I was planning on trying to get the cores to bite between two teeth of the chuck to keep everything flat for the first inch or so before switching it to a more centered position. Part of my problems are steming from my drill...It spurts fast even when it's set for low speeds so it makes fine control very difficult. I'm not quite ready to drop cash on a new drill, esp without knowing if the slow setting is slow enough. I also think the teeth don't clamp flush as I'd like. I'll give your suggestion a try with two 45 degree bends and one straight through the center..but I can see those angles leading to another triangle section.Have you tried with swivels?
Have you tried the way i do it where i use no swivels for the end furthest from the drill, i leave them loose, i put the 3 main wires into the chuck or a wire vise and that into the chuck, all three wires are aligned but then i seperate them so the middle one stays in line with the nose of the drill and the other two i splay on about a 45 degree angle from the middle wire, the two outside wires are about at a 90degree from each other with the center wire in the middle of the two.
Doing it this way for me helps get a good few wraps layed at the beginning while the mains are coming together, but as with the other way you cant allow the main wires to triangle, i cant usually come back from it once this starts but you can unwrap that part then seperate the wires once again to take another run at it.
At the very beginning of the wrapping i put very little tension if any on the decored clapton wire and then once i see its laying and the 3 main wires are staying parallel i speed up the drill and i support the aliened part of the wire with my finger, obviously if you touch any of the three main wires they will begin to triangle.
i'm by no means an expert and im not saying my way is best as most of the time it doesnt want to play nicely but its the only way i can alien personally and it may be the same for you
Heyup Tom How are you?
That Build you talk of i sort of just pulled it from my container where i chuck unwanted coils, its defo 2.5id and i think its 26g A1 cores.
I have a load of coils in my container that ive hardly or ever used cus ive been solely using regulated mods for about 2months and most of the fancy coils just get to hot on the slow ramp, even said coil, i made a special trip lastnight cus of this and picked up my fav mech from the house
I'm not saying im back to vape heaven though, cus now a 0.1ohm build feels
hot.The idea for me with the super hot builds on mechs before was that i was only able to take a 1 second pull thus not heating the atty, i've also changed from cotton to rayon since last using mechs which has enabled me to lower nic from 6mg to 2mg so i know the nic isnt causing a problem, no sore throat with the 0.1ohm build, just Hot
maybe i'll try some ... cotton later and compare 
Dont buy more gear, the method i use does work Trust me
i will go look for the vid where i first saw this method then you can see properly how to do it EDIT: Here go! i found it straight away! good luck!
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When it starts to triangle up, grab your pliers and squeeze the 3 wires flat where you already alien Clapton and in front of it.
You got to start slow and no tension on the alien like regular claptons. Once I put tension my wires triangle up.
I'm using a swivel, bends the ends 90 degrees and into the chuck. All 3 wires are straight as possible out of the chuck.
But try squeezing the coils flat. That should help.
1024x720 gauge PLAT99 with a micro-cellular twist with a twist pitch of 108 picometers (108×10−12 m).
I can't really tell you what kind of coil it is - not that I don't want to, I can't. The "name" (for lack of a better definition) isn't pronounceable within the limitations of the human vocal chord constraints, and therefore has no appropriate spelling. The closest I can come to a description of the "name" is with an image:
I've done that as well, crimping the wire on both sides of the wrap. Nadda. I'm giving it one more try tonight, then I will just wait for the wire vice. I've got a bunch of rebuilds to do tonight. Want to replace the staggered fused in my velocity since I don't find the flavor worth it. Assuming I don't nail the alien tonight I want to do another cat track to replace my 24 gauged fused in my heavens hells atty (it gets a bit to hot at .14 ohms..I'd lime a .16 cat track). My vector needs replacement coils because the 26 gauge fused are looking a bit rusted out and the flavor seems off. Thinking about a hammered fused for that one. I have a marquis that id like to try Clapton's in to get more flavor out of it (only ever did standard coils), and lastly, I want to see if I can get 30/gauge fused coils in my Billow v2 without brushing the chimney section. Also want to try another clapton helix since i have 38/40/gauge wrap wire now to reduce the overnall coil size. I also need to snapnsome pictures of my Mizrah mod for uploading and a small review on a great mech on the mech forums. So I'm going to be a busy boy tonight.
Yeah, right, I see. Funny guy.1024x720 gauge PLAT99 with a micro-cellular twist with a twist pitch of 108 picometers (108×10−12 m).
I can't really tell you what kind of coil it is - not that I don't want to, I can't. The "name" (for lack of a better definition) isn't pronounceable within the limitations of the human vocal chord constraints, and therefore has no appropriate spelling. The closest I can come to a description of the "name" is with an image:
But back to the purpose of this thread:
Hey there Coil Masters
I finally got everything... The N80 wire, the vise & the hobby lamp, so I'm ready to get going on these coils and do what it do
I'll have my phone by Sunday, but I'm gonna figure out how to take pics with this Logitech C920. Now let go do some juice mixing (I'm trying a new flavor) & some coil builds 
I finally got everything... The N80 wire, the vise & the hobby lamp, so I'm ready to get going on these coils and do what it do
I'll have my phone by Sunday, but I'm gonna figure out how to take pics with this Logitech C920. Now let go do some juice mixing (I'm trying a new flavor) & some coil builds Hey tom that stitched alien you did looks pretty similar to the stitched alien I did a few pages ago. That makes me feel better about how it came out. I thought I was messing up when I did it but it looked so interesting I just kept going with it and I think it looks awesome coiled up. How is the vape from that beast? And a quick question even though this isn't the mech thread. When you are trying to figure out the amps your using do you calculate it with the batteries charge level or from the voltage drop point? Not sure if that's confusing or not I just want to know for sure how to calculate it. I always try to be as safe as I can when using a mech especially but the vape I get from a .14 coil is out of this world. Thanks for any info.
Edit: Just thought about my question for a few minutes and realized that it is your battery life that you calculate with. Some of my days I'm a little slow. Lol
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Didn't get the time to do all the builds I had wanted to before Wifey came home, but I got two coils done, both Ni80, 26 gauge and 40 gauge wraps. Hadn't done 40 gauge wraps before, so this is a new one for me. The velocity came out better then the vector coils (the wrap split, so i'll need to redo one of the coils) and I got some nice blues that the camera didnt pick up. Also of note, the Mizrah mod is fantastic. I only have one minor niggle about it, the attys sit at a very slight angle..I mean like a degree or two. Other then I had an autofire when I dismantled and messed with the button that took a while to fix...otherwise it's been a pleasure..thanks to Tom and Retro for the suggestions and idea respectively.
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I'm using my monster v3 on my Rolo DNA 200. And I don't really do maths when it comes to builds, most of mine end up around .10-.20Ω so I'll throw them on whatever mod I please. If I feel like they're too low I put them on my parallel box. I don't really use an ohm reader anymore bc my Rolo has a cutoff at .03Ω when building with KA1 or N80.
She vapes great at 65-70w. Got a slight ramp up to the hottest she gets but I like that. Doesn't leak even with the chuff pin on my monster v3.
Wicking has to be just right though. Too little wicking and you're leaking, too much wicking and you're getting burnt hits.
Edit: when you're coiling a triangle stitched alien, make sure you keep the wrap straight so that one side of the triangle shape is always down on the bit and it shapes up like that. You wanna remove the twists with nylon pliers while wrapping the coil.
**And on the .14Ω coil on a mech, .15Ω is the limit on 30A batteries like the VTC series. I've vaped .12Ω & most likely lower (not on purpose) on a single battery mech, but I don't recommend it. It kills your battery life & isn't safe. Builds like that make the mod get really hot...that's a warning to not do that IMO. Keep your ohms .15&up for a single battery mech.
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