The NEW Sigelei 19 tips thread...

[State O' Flux]

Yeah, you're saying to yourself, "what's this crap... we already got a huge Sigelei 19 tips and tricks thread, what do we need a new one for?"

Well that's the thing. When Oktyabr started that thread, here was his reason why:

Hi!

I'm starting this thread because our beloved sigelei mech thread is growing like an out of control brush fire... posts are buried, posts that should be about a specific model are mashed up with other ones, etc.
New posters don't bother to read all 150+ pages so the same questions are getting asked over and over again. Feel free to contribute to this one, if you like!

So, here's the idea. Lets start again.
This thread is for all those great folks who have posted a variety of tips and tricks here and there, now and again... but, what I'd like to see are the very best, most useful, least buried in BS... tips and tricks all in one place. Cut and paste your best stuff here... "contribute".

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Please title your posts with the most important aspect of your tips and tricks. If you have a great way to reduce button travel, title it - "Sigelei 19 reduced button travel"... or something similar. The idea is that key words make for an easier search.

Now... this thread may never take off. That's fine... if you don't think this is a good idea, or useful, the thread will die of it's own accord.

I'll start, with the next post. Nothing earth shattering... just a tip about magnets. I tried to find this in Oktyabr's thread... lots of posts about the magnets in the original 19, and some posts about the FDV kit... but nothing on magnets for the 19 (and anything else with a 8mm button shaft) alone. Hopefully, this isn't a repeat of another post, somewhere in ECF... if it is, then epic fail on my part.

OK. Lets see how this flies... or not.

 

[State O' Flux]

If you have a 19e, or have converted your earlier 19 to a 19e configuration, but with a spring, here's a cheap magnetic button conversion.

Now... before I post the link, you need to know that this came to me when I bought a Fat Daddy Vapes Sigelei #19 Switch Rebuild Kit - with 3 Ring Magnet (Axially Magnetized) to update an old SS 19b.
In that kit, Dennis includes 3 magnets, should the user wish to delete their spring. Full credit to "Fat Daddy" for sourcing all the pieces parts to create the kit, that sells for $12 shipped.
This kit works great, and the magnetic resistance is about perfect. Enough to hold up a full, 7ml, glass carto tank... but still, a very light press. After reducing the button travel to 0.8mm... it's as good as any high end magnetic mech.

What if you have a 19e, or have already rebuilt your older 19... and don't want to spend $10 just for 3 magnets? For $12.89 shipped, you can get ten 12mm X 2mm X 8.5mm magnets... enough for 3 19s and one left over. If your atty weighs more than the average, you may need 4 magnets per... so you can still do 2 19s for $13 bucks.

Anyway... here's the link. They're coming from Hong Kong... so figure on 2-3 weeks delivery time.

I bought some of these, and they are, for all intent and purpose, the same magnets as used in the FDV kit. I'm not trying to undercut FDV... the kit is perfect, serves it's purpose brilliantly and well worth the $12, but if you don't need the solid brass button pin, copper washer (for SS buttons) or new delrin spacer... then why spend the money if all you want is magnets?

Cheers,
SOF

Addendum 10-4-13. I've been chatting with Dennis Cruz, the "Fat Daddy" of Fat Daddy Vapes. He's looking into carrying the 12mm X 2mm X 8.5mm magnets separately. He's also looking into magnets for Nemesis and Chi You.
He has to buy them 500 at a time to make it worth his while, but if you contact him with a suggestion for a magnet size (in other words, you figure out the size needed) and application, I'm sure he'd look into it.
Given the options, I'd much rather buy from Dennis and pay a small premium than order direct from China.... Support the vendors that support you!

 

[zipflint]

I hope it's okay to post this here. I was active in the original, extremely lengthy thread a few months back when the brass #19 was new-ish.

Just today my #19 has started shorting. I'm getting misfires and little sparks around the button. The only modification I ever had to do to mine was to put a little o-ring under the brass pin to reduce the throw. It's been a champ since then. I might have ordered a glue-free stainless steel top cap from fatdaddyvapes. I'm just not sure.

I'm under the impression that this kind of shorting (it's happening with every atty I try) is due to the body/contact springs hitting some part of the interior of the mod that it isn't supposed to. Right? I'm thinking maybe I need to replace the spring at the positive end, but I can't really see where/why it could be the culprit. And there's no excess heat being generated there either. The only place that's getting hot and/or sparking is the button itself.

I've got this thing nice 'n tarnished, just like I want it to be. I'd hate to have to start the process over with a whole 'nother #19.

 

[State O' Flux]

I hope it's okay to post this here. I was active in the original, extremely lengthy thread a few months back when the brass #19 was new-ish.

Just today my #19 has started shorting. I'm getting misfires and little sparks around the button. The only modification I ever had to do to mine was to put a little o-ring under the brass pin to reduce the throw. It's been a champ since then. I might have ordered a glue-free stainless steel top cap from fatdaddyvapes. I'm just not sure.

I'm under the impression that this kind of shorting (it's happening with every atty I try) is due to the body/contact springs hitting some part of the interior of the mod that it isn't supposed to. Right? I'm thinking maybe I need to replace the spring at the positive end, but I can't really see where/why it could be the culprit. And there's no excess heat being generated there either. The only place that's getting hot and/or sparking is the button itself.

I've got this thing nice 'n tarnished, just like I want it to be. I'd hate to have to start the process over with a whole 'nother #19.

I have two... an all brass 19e with a spring and a converted polished stainless 19b (with a Fat Daddy magnetic button switch kit).

Complete dis-assembly and cleaning at the least... and if necessary a light sanding of the button OD and the button lock ring ID (where the shocking seems to occur from) seems to do the trick... at least for me.
Also, this appears to be more likely to occur if you use a standard, low amp rated battery, where a 30 amp high drain would be more appropriate... below 0.5Ω for example.

It seems primarily to be a matter of poor continuity that develops over time with brass mechs, as they build up a non-conductive tarnish or corrosion layer.

 

[State O' Flux]

I noticed that Dennis (aka Fat Daddy) has revamped his webpages... to a single shopping page, so, the link provided in the first post, no longer exists. Everything he has, save for what he sells on eBay, can be found here.

 

[zipflint]

Thanks! I have not cleaned the log ring areas in a looong time. I'll give that a shot! I'll probably eventually order the magnetic kit from fatdaddy, since I'm also interested in his Nemesis magnets.

I have two... an all brass 19e with a spring and a converted polished stainless 19b (with a Fat Daddy magnetic button switch kit).

Complete dis-assembly and cleaning at the least... and if necessary a light sanding of the button OD and the button lock ring ID (where the shocking seems to occur from) seems to do the trick... at least for me.
Also, this appears to be more likely to occur if you use a standard, low amp rated battery, where a 30 amp high drain would be more appropriate... below 0.5Ω for example.

It seems primarily to be a matter of poor continuity that develops over time with brass mechs, as they build up a non-conductive tarnish or corrosion layer.

 

[State O' Flux]

Thanks! I have not cleaned the log ring areas in a looong time. I'll give that a shot! I'll probably eventually order the magnetic kit from fatdaddy, since I'm also interested in his Nemesis magnets.

I certainly won't hurt to lightly sand (with a scotchbrite pad) all the threaded surfaces, and apply a bit of Noalox/OX-Gard/silver paste/what-ever-anti~corrosive-paste-you-have-handy to those threads. Good continuity/low resistance is your bestest friend. ;-)