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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
- Thread starter Scubabatdan
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Hey Ricks......Don't worry, I think most of the guys here vape ceramic sub-ohm,I'm sure it's something simple. I have to admit I never go above 1.2and prefer 8to9. I think Bap may have nailed it......break in, the other thing is a hot positive leg. I always have to support the wick with one finger then take a large needle and force the coil coming off the top of the wick, force it over so it's snug against the wick[, and when that fails I drape a small coil of cotton over the positive leg soak it in juice and that usually works, sometime after a while some people pull the cotton off after the coil is broke in.....personally I leave it on
.QUOTE=ricks;10921021]I'm not offended at all. I'm just looking for some help on this issue form someone else.[/QUOTE]
.QUOTE=ricks;10921021]I'm not offended at all. I'm just looking for some help on this issue form someone else.[/QUOTE]
DrMA & gdeal -
Where are you setting your afcr (aif flow control ring)?
What if any mods have you done to change air flow from stock?
What is your coil wire and ohm, and device/v/w
*Edit - Also the juice your running (me 50/50)
Mine is significantly modded from stock so I have found that I need to keep my afcr closer to closed, but there again my afcr is also modded
I'm running 28g wire at ~1ohm.....and the weird thing is I'm getting a really nice vape around 12-12.5 watts (~3.6v) on a DNA mod. (When its wet of course)
DrMA - On dry hits how long does it take to go from wet to dry? And if you let it set, does it eventually get wet again?
I get about 3 or 4 drags and then it dries out.....and I haven't waited to see if it recovers on its own
No mods to afcr, fully opened (I think the airflow is pretty nice in stock form).
Coil is 1.0Ω made out of my special 3-ply twisted 32AWG Kanthal. Nice vape at around 16W (DNA20 mod), hot and flavorful (when it works).
So, the dry hits - it takes 7-10 puffs before it goes dry. When it does dry out, it stays dry for hours (I left it once overnight and it was still dry in the morning).
Update - I drilled a rather large channel into one of the wick ends and reset the Fogger with cotton sealers. This time I can see air bubbles, but I think I made the channel a bit too large, cause it has a small leak. This device is proving to be a massive PIA.
BAP, when you cut down that centre "air tube" did you notice a significant decrease in air restriction?
did you also enlarge the 3 air holes, or did you leave those alone?
i have grown accustomed to a VERY open draw, and am wondering, if it is worth hacking up this Fogger V2, or if i should just give it to someone who is willing to toy with it.
This thing was picky even with SS mesh... i'm reluctant to waste my ceramic on it...
i finally got it to feed enough to achieve the perfect balance between dry and flooded.... WOW that took me about 4 attempts... SHEESH!
Pics or it didnt happen!
did you also enlarge the 3 air holes, or did you leave those alone?
i have grown accustomed to a VERY open draw, and am wondering, if it is worth hacking up this Fogger V2, or if i should just give it to someone who is willing to toy with it.
This thing was picky even with SS mesh... i'm reluctant to waste my ceramic on it...
i finally got it to feed enough to achieve the perfect balance between dry and flooded.... WOW that took me about 4 attempts... SHEESH!
Pics or it didnt happen!
Cutting off the center tube did open it up at full open on the afcr. I didn't drill out the three holes in the base. I mainly cut off the center tube to better utilize the afcr, plus I lowered the internal chamber deck enough that the insulator would have covered the four holes in the center tube.
The problem with opening up the air flow is that it will reduce vacuum for feed. So you will likely need to adjust your wick config for the reduced vacuum.
The problem with opening up the air flow is that it will reduce vacuum for feed. So you will likely need to adjust your wick config for the reduced vacuum.
sorry this is my first tank of this style....
really airy draw is a big no no...
thanks for the heads up, i really wasn't thinking of the consequences that would have on juice feed....
anyone try the Ceramic rope at the ends of the AO rod? this is the ceramic thread after all...
i may jump into this once the Fogger has been cut up to my liking.
really airy draw is a big no no...
thanks for the heads up, i really wasn't thinking of the consequences that would have on juice feed....
anyone try the Ceramic rope at the ends of the AO rod? this is the ceramic thread after all...
i may jump into this once the Fogger has been cut up to my liking.
Here is my AGA-T with 32g at 2.27ohms. It works and tastes great with one of my liquids. The other day I had it wrapped with 30g with 3/4 wraps at 1.2ohms and it sucked. It did not work.
really airy draw is a big no no...
thanks for the heads up, i really wasn't thinking of the consequences that would have on juice feed....
While the Fogger and the Taifun GT are different than the Kayfun style attys, they both rely on vacuum from vaping for juice feed. The Fogger and TGT probably a little bit less than the Kayfun style attys. I think that is why the KFL went away from an adjustable air hole, they probably felt most users would have less issues if they went with an air hole size that works well for silica the most common rba wick material.
I wouldn't say that an airy draw is a no no, just that the wick and/or coil might need to be different to suit the desired draw.
Also make sure the notch in the silicone piece in the bottom of the Fogger is aligned with the 3 holes, and that the insulator on the center tube is towards the top. If these are covering holes you could be restricted more than you think. I cut the bottom silicone piece to the diameter of the disk so I didn't have to worry about it lining up.
yeah, i saw your post on the other thread...
i opened up the base, to make sure. everything was just jammed in there...
i aligned it back up the way it was supposed to be.
i also noticed you sanded down the chrome(?) plating to bare brass for the positive connection, notice any difference with performance?
it would have been nice if those two pieces were screwed together, similar to the A7 atty .
but for the price, i guess you cant be too picky...
this atty will be my laser engraving mule more than anything else....
in the next week i will update with relevant info to contribute to this thread.... but for now, i'll just get used to bottom coil rebuildables...
i have 3 genisis tanks that need a break for a while....
i opened up the base, to make sure. everything was just jammed in there...
i aligned it back up the way it was supposed to be.
i also noticed you sanded down the chrome(?) plating to bare brass for the positive connection, notice any difference with performance?
it would have been nice if those two pieces were screwed together, similar to the A7 atty .
but for the price, i guess you cant be too picky...
this atty will be my laser engraving mule more than anything else....
in the next week i will update with relevant info to contribute to this thread.... but for now, i'll just get used to bottom coil rebuildables...
i have 3 genisis tanks that need a break for a while....
I didn't notice any change in performance, but I'm using a DNA20 mod so besides noticing a slight change in resistance (which I didn't notice, but didn't really look for) I wouldn't really see or notice a change like a mech might.
If I continue using the fogger I will probably make a new ss disk.
That's a purty lookin' coil. Thinking out loud here - maybe using 30g around a fat stone wick isn't enough wire to heat up the wick and vaporize the juice. Do you have any 28g to try a low Ω setup. Most folks doing low Ω are using 28g and thicker.
Yes its completely hollow.....but is the hole straight and wick completely round....no
But it should work to try this out....now the challenge is to keep it in one piece and finish getting it setup.
Well asdaq I bit....I think I'm going to try it
That just simply rocks! I take it drill first, shape after? I'm guessing that is about an inch in length, quite doable and still quite strong. Taht there is essentially the mini Bon version of the stock petsmart airstone. Can't wait to hear how it does, man, the juice has to wick through what, 2mm of ceramic?
1.5mm-ish
OD is ~4.3mm
ID is ~1.6mm
I usually drill a square blank first and then round, but this was a thicker round piece I had so I drilled it and then ground it down as far a dared.
Very nice, is it still 'sturdy'? That ID is pretty large, I had in mind something 1mm-ish. Not complaining, just thinking. How long is it?
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