I don't think that was me, I use autodesk inventor. You can download a free 30 day trial. I have heard some like google sketch up, but I haven't used any of the free software so???
-
Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
View thread
The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
- Thread starter Scubabatdan
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I don't think that was me, I use autodesk inventor. You can download a free 30 day trial. I have heard some like google sketch up, but I haven't used any of the free software so???
Nice gdeal. What are you using for your battery? VV? VW? I would suggest upping the ohms to like 2.4 or 2.5 and would love to hear what you think.
Update on some Ceramic Wick Testing
I drilled out my AGA to a 1/8 inch hole to fit a bigger wick (~1/8 inch) I wrapped a kanthal A-1 28g 5/6 coil for 1.2 ohms. The earlier 2.3mm wick as previously described was a bit lacking in terms of wicking rate.
So I was a bit surprised, the 1/8 inch wick is completely vapable up to 14 watts. But satisfaction depends upon your defined vape style, At 14 watts I could only do a two pull and then got a dry hit. After the two pulls, the wick needed about 10 seconds to full refresh to get back to another two pull hit without getting dry (not quite burnt) At 11.4 watts, I could do 5 consecutive pulls, then dry hit. At 9.1 watts, I went non-stop for 10 pulls and then had to stop cause I was about to fall over My two pull vape takes about 10 seconds in total.
After a short resuscitation period, I went to cap off tests.
At three different power levels, I tested for time to first red coil, waited 5 seconds, then time to second red coil, waited 5 second, then time to third red coil.
At 9.1 watts, it could run for 13 seconds, then 6 seconds, then 5 seconds.
At 11.4 watts, it could run for 12 seconds, then 4 seconds, then 5 seconds.
At 14 watts, it could run for 9 seconds, then 4 seconds, then 4 seconds.
Not bad at all for a 20 cent piece of petstore ceramic and about a ½ hour of wet grinding on a diamond wheel.Hopefully the next sample material can increase the juice refresh rate to equal mesh. But overall this is definitely a keeper.
I pre-formed the coil using a 7/64 drill bit (Petar K Style), then released tension at the both connections, then threaded the ~1/8 ceramic wick and re-tighten all coils using a finger on top of the wick for stabilization. No break-in period.
I can believe the bit about PetSmart not carrying that type of bubbler anymore - I visited 3 of them in my area, Petco and a large no-name aquarium supply store and they had only the blue Top Fin bubbler. Hopefully someone will come up with another source for that particular model. Until then, it is back to the FQ inner coil R&D...
Ya shoulda hit up DizGrizz when you had the chance. I have two untouched 5 1/2" (real length) tubes. Let me know if I can donate some to the cause. ;-)
Try some 30 at a 6/5 or so wrap. Anneal the wire a bit before turning.
EDIT: Question, is that a stock orange o-ring on your AGA or did you alter that?
EDIT: Question, is that a stock orange o-ring on your AGA or did you alter that?
Last edited:
The Petsmart I got my ceramic from had about two dozen of different size on the shelves..so if anybody is locked out...let me know.
I anneal before coiling to release tension. Whats your thinking on the 30g?
O-rings are stock red(ish), proly the lighting....
Last edited:
I left some on the hooks back when I was testing earlier on. Going to check if they are still there. GONE if they are.
Higher ohms, man. I have been using 5 wraps of 32 so far.
Run the higher ohm coil at like 4.5v
Run the higher ohm coil at like 4.5v
I anneal before coiling to release tension. Whats your thinking on the 30g?
Last edited:
68 pages... has anyone tried, or thought to use a 20mm top section of ceramic, wrapped below in SS mesh as a feeder? The ceramic could be rotated as it breaks down from heat/use, and a relatively expensive long wick becomes 3-4 affordable "top stubs"? Thoughts?
Last edited:
What are you using as the thinner center post spacer?
Look what I'm playing with
Went to Petsmart tonight and my local 1 here had plenty of the top fin Stone.
Sent from the ether.
You mean if I use higher gauge wire, I can have more resistance? just joking....I'll try 32g on the next set-up to see where it goes. I need to get some more attys, cause it doesn't seem right to break down the ones that I finally got tuned perfectly (You know, rule number one of genesis). lol.
Wait...I have a chobra sitting in the toy cemetery...chinese mystery metal here I come.
Whoot! Third times a charm. After busting my 1st two wicks before I could vape 'em, I've got a nice setup going now. I'm using 30 awg Kanthal, 5 wraps, giving 1.8Ω. I dry burn tested it and all coil glowed red, so I filled it up and tried it out. Started at 3.7 volts and it was OK. I liked it because it was working, but the vapor production was just so-so. Moved up to 4.0 volts and - nice! Vapor production was quite satisfactory and I had my first gleamer that this could really be the 'next big thing'. Pushed the + button for 4.2 volts and the vapor density increased again - nice!. I'm liking this. Actually like gdeal, I got to take a break. Even at 7.5 mg nic I'm getting a buzz. I haven't had a dry hit yet. If I leave it sit a bit, it does need a vape or 2 to get working optimally again, but that I can surely handle.
Ok - more specifics. This setup is w/ a ZAP, wick hole is 1/8 inch (.125 inches). The wick is ~.116 inches diameter (#32 bit size), so the wick fits loosely into the hole. I passed the 30 awg Kanthal thru a bic lighter flame once to take some of the spring back out of it, then went down 5 bit sizes and rolled it around a #37 bit (.104 inches). Took the coil off the drill bit and 'screwed' the wick into it. It only took light pressure to fit the wick through the coil. Then carefully inserted the wick/coil into the wick hole and attached to +/- posts. Lastly for those using a ZAP/ZAU/ZAG, I cut the length of the wick to 1 7/16 inches. Don't go much higher or you risk busting the wick when you put the top cap on (been there, done that).
I put the PV down while typing this post to let it cool off. At 4.2 volts it took 1 easy double pull vape to 'heat up'. Then it was working just fine again.
Ok - more specifics. This setup is w/ a ZAP, wick hole is 1/8 inch (.125 inches). The wick is ~.116 inches diameter (#32 bit size), so the wick fits loosely into the hole. I passed the 30 awg Kanthal thru a bic lighter flame once to take some of the spring back out of it, then went down 5 bit sizes and rolled it around a #37 bit (.104 inches). Took the coil off the drill bit and 'screwed' the wick into it. It only took light pressure to fit the wick through the coil. Then carefully inserted the wick/coil into the wick hole and attached to +/- posts. Lastly for those using a ZAP/ZAU/ZAG, I cut the length of the wick to 1 7/16 inches. Don't go much higher or you risk busting the wick when you put the top cap on (been there, done that).
I put the PV down while typing this post to let it cool off. At 4.2 volts it took 1 easy double pull vape to 'heat up'. Then it was working just fine again.
Nice stuff guys!!!
I just got my first cuts done. The wet saw cuts through this stuff like butter. For the wetstone, I cut off a slice about .160" wide and then flipped it on it side and split it down the middle to separate the "fine" and "coarse" halves. For the fish tank bubbler, I cut it right down the center then cut one of the halves down the center, then cut that quarter down the center (ish).
The pic below shows the wetstone on its side in the upper left. The lower right-to-left is the coarse wetstone chunk, the fine wetstone, a busted 1/8 of the bubbler (yeah, it's a bit fragile), the other 1/8 piece, and a 1/4 piece of the bubbler. You can see the other 1/2 bubbler holding the wetstone at an angle for the pic. BTW, the calipers are showing 0.26".
Sorry for the crappy focus, I need to get some new NimH AA batts for the real camera tomorrow.
Now, it's off to the grinder to see if I can make some rods outa these things!
I just got my first cuts done. The wet saw cuts through this stuff like butter. For the wetstone, I cut off a slice about .160" wide and then flipped it on it side and split it down the middle to separate the "fine" and "coarse" halves. For the fish tank bubbler, I cut it right down the center then cut one of the halves down the center, then cut that quarter down the center (ish).
The pic below shows the wetstone on its side in the upper left. The lower right-to-left is the coarse wetstone chunk, the fine wetstone, a busted 1/8 of the bubbler (yeah, it's a bit fragile), the other 1/8 piece, and a 1/4 piece of the bubbler. You can see the other 1/2 bubbler holding the wetstone at an angle for the pic. BTW, the calipers are showing 0.26".
Sorry for the crappy focus, I need to get some new NimH AA batts for the real camera tomorrow.
Now, it's off to the grinder to see if I can make some rods outa these things!
MikeE3 - that is a nice coil! Can your wick handle max voltage? Just asking to compare notes...
Oh, I totally forgot; I did some more tests...
I torched the wetstone (both grits) to red hot and no failures...no flaking, cracking, melting, stinking, or farting...OK, one, but that was me.
Just for grins, cause I know it's already been done, I did the same to the fish tank airstone...big surprise, same thing.
Then, I tried something to answer a question that someone had raised earlier and I had wondered about myself; how does this stuff handle thermal shock? Well, to use a commercial catch-phrase, "like it never even happened"! I heated both grits of the wetstone and the airstone to red hot and then promptly dropped them into a sink of cool water. What did I get? Slightly warmer water! As far as I could tell, no damage at all to any of the stones.
I'm getting pretty exited about this now. Wish me luck on the grinder, gentlemen.
I torched the wetstone (both grits) to red hot and no failures...no flaking, cracking, melting, stinking, or farting...OK, one, but that was me.
Just for grins, cause I know it's already been done, I did the same to the fish tank airstone...big surprise, same thing.
Then, I tried something to answer a question that someone had raised earlier and I had wondered about myself; how does this stuff handle thermal shock? Well, to use a commercial catch-phrase, "like it never even happened"! I heated both grits of the wetstone and the airstone to red hot and then promptly dropped them into a sink of cool water. What did I get? Slightly warmer water! As far as I could tell, no damage at all to any of the stones.
I'm getting pretty exited about this now. Wish me luck on the grinder, gentlemen.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
