Ok, the 50W iStick (when it comes out) is 23mm. The Sub Tank is 25mm. OCD? Not sure.
The Provarinati Saloon IV - Back Alley
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You can order small quantities from protovapor but I ended up getting spools of it from lightning vapes on FleaBay.
I don't recall it being 4 times more expensive...checking my ebays orders...brb
ETA... I think you are looking for lov...erm nickel in all the wrong places http://www.ebay.com/itm/281178605938?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
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I like them both and don't think you can go wrong with either. The KST you can at least switch it up & build your own coils if you choose to go that route.
One thing though, the KST is kicking my ayuuss. Strong juices are toooooo strong. For me the weaker juices shine in it without knocking me to the floor.
I don't know if I want one tank dedicated to 8ml of juice. Currently I've got GCD in the subtank. Been vaping it for an entire week & bored would that flavor.
On the tank from VaporDna (the 8ml) use coupon code DNA10 for 10% off!
I should've said this in my last reply but {IMO} I get a smoother vape off the Atlantis. Throat hit isn't so harsh.
No it's not, that was based o 25ft spools....
So how much harder is it to work with??
I prefer the draw of the Atlantis but hell, I'm a woman & may change my mind in a few min.I have both as so does Chief I believe.....
They are both good tanks....
The Kanger however beats out the Aspire simply because of its open draw, and it is so close in vapor production to a dripper it's not funny!
That combined with the fact you can also build your own coils with the rebuild deck, in my mind makes it a better tank.
IMHO
A few posts back I posted a place where I got my Sub and a coupon code that brought to under $40.00 for the Sub!
Bought mine from Lightening Vapes. I believe they also have an eBay store.
I put mine on everything I have just to see what it looks like & it looks ridiculous.
Only looks sharp on my box mod.
I put mine on everything I have just to see what it looks like & it looks ridiculous.
Only looks sharp on my box mod.
I'm thinking that it can't be that much worse than a Nautilus on the iStick I have now. I can deal with that.
There is a learning curve because it is softer. You have to turn temp control off to pulse fire and you should pulse at around 11-12 watts not more really. Lots of folks have better luck with spaced coils rather than contact. But all of mine are pulse fired contact coils. I would not go with a gauge higher than 28. 28 seems to be a good gauge to work with.
Building a single coil seems to be rather easy....duals can be tricky in attys with drilled posts since the wire is so soft you can easily snap the wire. I built the fogger just fine though (no drilled posts).
Your target resistance is 0.16. Yes, you heard that correctly. To get much above 0.2 requires that you build a slinky in there...not so fun.
It is a regulated mod though so you are safe that low.
You can also build Kanthal on it but you will not get temp protection with Kanthal. You can build whatever resistance you desire on Kanthal but it will soft limit at 0.1 or 0.16 (I forget actually).
One interesting thing you will note is when the Nickel heats up the resistance raises ever so slightly. It can make you think you have a short but actually it is just the conductive properties of the nickel that makes that happen.
The Kiwi is pretty much a master builder in my book and is a wealth of information on Nickel as well as traditional Kanthal builds.
Also, there seems to be more machine oil left on the Nickel during processing. So before I build I get a cotton ball soaked with Isopropyl Alcohol and clean the wire until it squeaks.
Learning to build Nickel?....slightly challenging at times with a time investment. Not burning your wicking? Priceless...
Oh and fyi...I run my Aspire Atlantis on it at 25 watts wide open and it chucks the vapes =) That's Kanthal obviously.
Also, I will admit to having used 30G Nickel on the fogger just so that I didn't have a bunch of chunky wire to fasten down.
Next single coil I build will be 28G around a 3mm 11 or 12 times.
Surface area baby!
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Okay. Here comes the incredibly dumb question time. As most of you probably know by now, my mind does not process math. The concept eludes me. Thank goodness I am able to figure out my simple coils/ohms/volts to run my R91 and Kayfun.
Why do you have to go such high watts to vape a sub ohm coil. I would think that you would use lower power on sub ohm. When I vape a 2.0ohm coil I go higher volts on my Provari Mini than I do with a 1.5ohm coil. Where am I getting lost? If I go too high on the volts it burns my juice, every time.
I know that this is going to drive all you experienced vapers nuts. I apologize in advance. This is also why I will never attempt a mech or sub ohm. I would be a danger to myself and the general community. I would be the faceless one on the front page, seriously.
ETA - I truly do want to understand this.
The higher the resistance of the coil the less power (watts) it will draw at a certain voltage. So let's take a voltage of 3.8. I like my vapes between 3.4 to 3.8...I know weird to some but that is what I like because I find my stuff does not burn.
So, a 2.0 ohm coil at 3.8v is going to draw 7.22 watts. Whereas a 0.56 ohm coil (such as the Atlantis) is going to draw 25.78 watts for the same 3.8 voltage setting.
If you set a mod to voltage you are controlling the heat of the coil and how much power it gets. Conversely, you can set whatever wattage you like (say to conserve battery) and it will give you the voltage appropriate for that wattage setting.
So, I tend to set watts for whatever target voltage I like. So, I calculate how many watts I need to get 3.8 volts. Does that make sense?
I am sure there are people with deeper electrical knowledge than I but that simple way of thinking of it has never failed for me.
Higher Ohms mean more resistance and less current flowing. Think of a water hose. A thicker hose is going to flow more water than a thinner hose, right? So the higher the resistance, the thinner the hose happens to be. Kind of like, nothing holding it back opens up the flood gates. Whereas a dam in the way makes the flood a trickle.
Hope I didn't confuse you more....
The other ever so simple way to do this is put your atty on your mod....start the watts low and keep raising it until you get the flavor and vapor production that you like.
....on a regulated mod that is. Because on a mech the voltage limit of a fully charged battery is 4.2 volts and it goes down from there as the battery discharges. On a mech, you have to make sure that your resistance does not natively over-discharge the battery by drawing what it will in keeping with Ohm's Law.
And you don't need math...you just need this...http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php plug any two of the factors in and it will give you the others. Try it...plug in 3.8 in voltage and 2.0 resistance. Then note the Power (wattage) number. Now plug in 1.0 into resistance and calculate. You will see the Power number go higher. This is because more power is used when there is less holding it back (resistance).
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That is how the device WORKS - it "knows" the temperature by reading the resistance... There's not actually a "thermometer" in there, it is using an algorithm based on how Nickel changes resistance. And that's why it's got to be Nickel...
Thank you so much Bassnorma. This does confuse me, lol. Does not take much. I had/have the same deer in the headlights reaction to Ohms Law. Read the thing a zillion times. I just taught myself what range I could build my coils on for the Provari and at what voltage I like to vape at.
I will have to dig out my MVP2 and actually put my R91 on it and play around with the wattage. I have not done that since I got my first Provari Mini and R91. But I do need to understand this.
I really do appreciate your explanation and I do get the whole water hose thing. That helps. I believe I have heard/read that before, but it keeps escaping me, or just does not stick properly. You are a real trooper. Several people over the last year have tried to explain some of these things to me and I get a little, for a while. Evidently I never truly get it because if I did I would know it forever. Sigh. No fun toys for me. This is the only reason I do not own a Reo.
You can own a Reo...Just don't build your coils below 0.8 ohms on AW 18650 battery and change the battery when your vape starts to sag. If you do that and use an ohm reader when building the atty, you will be fine.
Sorry that didn't help much just keep thinking of resistance...when something is resisted it is slowed down or stopped. So the more resistance you apply the slower it goes. Like brakes on a car. The more your apply the brakes (increase the resistance) the slower your car will go...
@ Train...LOL thanks that makes sense I was running around thinking it was the physics of the wire itself. Thanks for clearing that up. ETA...but well yeah it is the physics of the wire...lol misread your post at first but now that being the reason for Nickel makes perfect sense.
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That is my fist sticky on my favorites bar so I can just pull it up all the time. I could not build a coil for weeks without it. Now I can build my set coils but if I want to change from 28ga to 30ga or the resistance, I do go to this chart all the time. Thank you for posting it for me. I just seem to have a big problem with how all the numbers work together.
So, the sub ohm coil is the bigger hose in the equation? I keep thinking that 28ga needs less coils to get to x ohms and it is the opposite, I think. Thus, the trusty Ohms Calculator.
See, DH for 22 years has been telling me I would get lost in a paper bag. lol You should have seen his face the first time I broke down my r91 and built and wicked a coil. It was priceless!
But I can do our taxes, pay the bills and hunt down the sales. Research how to fix a wood floor (with help from a friend), etc. Go figure. I guess we all have our talents. Math is not one of mine. Practice and seeing it done is my way to learn. But my mind wants to know why and I get mad at myself when I do not get something. Character flaw. One of many.
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Here's how to remember PART of it: Higher gauge is THINNER. Thinner wire, it's "harder" to push electrons through (skinny hose, right? It's a tighter fit, lol). So thinner has more RESISTance. Big thick wire, there's plenty of room for the electricity to flow - there's less resistance to it.
So for a 1 ohm coil, you might need 6 wraps of 28 g, but you'd need 9 wraps of 26 gauge.
Because the 26 is thicker, easier, less resistance. If you only did 6 wraps, it would be like 0.7 ohms.
These are estimates - the length of the legs matters too - it's how much wire and how thick that really drives the resistance...
Along with an Ohm's Law calculator, here is a Coil Calculator that's good for PLANNING (always check readings, too).
So for a 1 ohm coil, you might need 6 wraps of 28 g, but you'd need 9 wraps of 26 gauge.
Because the 26 is thicker, easier, less resistance. If you only did 6 wraps, it would be like 0.7 ohms.
These are estimates - the length of the legs matters too - it's how much wire and how thick that really drives the resistance...
Along with an Ohm's Law calculator, here is a Coil Calculator that's good for PLANNING (always check readings, too).
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