The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

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TBinAZ

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Yes, that's the intention. Why order scads of something that isn't going to work.

Although, I placed an order for 4 friggin feet of this stuff at the onset because I was like, hellyeah. LOL

I don't think that TBinAZ meant the 15mm as a co-op, he was just going to help people get started with experimenting by passing them out at that size. The co-op idea is for larger pieces. TBinAZ, correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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TBinAZ

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If this pans out, I will bubble wrap and send in a regular envelope. The jury is out yet. Will update. I myself am chomping at the F'ing bit to check this concept out.

Unless he mails them in a regular envelope the shipping may be the same as for a protected package of longer lengths.
 

jinxt

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Ok, so here is my input on the matter. I'm going to wheel and deal with TGP to get some sent out to me. Should be enough product for around 150 15mm pieces. I'm assuming, so far, that this is the best workable size of tube right now. If anyone has placed an order with TGP, then cancel it, and I will send out samples for testing to those who are interested. How does that sound? If this works for most, then I will fill in the details when everything is said and done.

Hell yeah! I'm down for some experimenting. Currently rocking a DuD but I have an AGA-T coming in from a co-op and I'm placing my LavaGen order as soon as Dino shoots me my invoice.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 

TBinAZ

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The owner is a good guy, so I say let it go. Put yourself in his shoes, right? This will work out one way or another.

I'd be in for the co-op and the 15mm sample if possible. I'm gonna cancel my order at TGP. They should put a minimum order restriction if it's really such a problem.
 

Birks

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I think one of the attractive features of this system is the ability to isolate the coil from the consumed air. Having the coil heat the air after the vapor is generated reduces the potential improvements. Providing more control of the vaporization process by moderating the chaotic effects of airflow over the coil is where I see the greatest potential in this effort.

Scubabatdan may want to step in here and establish a pedigree over this specific aspect of his progeny.

I guess you guys are right. What I did was to just increase insulation of regular genesis and it might end up with gunk and dry or burn taste after while. It still taste good to me and vapor production is very good. However, this is SqubaQu thread so I hope we can try and error to find a best solution specially how we can increase vapor volume.

To me, ID 2.4mm with top only air flow is not enough and it is a deal breaker.
 
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TBinAZ

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Ok, so I'm still awake. LOL

This isn't something for the hardened Geni user... for now, this is something that will help the novice user who want to try it out. This is a pretty keen deal here. Anyways, hope we can refine it.

I guess you guys are right. What I did was to just increase insulation of regular genesis and it might end up with gunk and dry or burn taste after while. It still good taste good to me and vapor production is very good. However, this is SqubaQu thread so I hope we can try and error to find a best solution specially how we can increase vapor volume.

To me, ID 2.4mm with top only air flow is not enough and it is a deal breaker.
 

altura

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The owner is a good guy, so I say let it go. Put yourself in his shoes, right? This will work out one way or another.

Oh I didn't mean to come off that way, I was just sayin :) I guess they just haven't run into anything quite like this before. and thanks for offering the samples if it works out and possible coop!
 

otrem

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just finished a tank with this.
meshwick.
4mm od x 8mm long glasstube.
flat ribbon kanthal 1/32 x .0022''.
1.2ohms 3.7v.
90degrees airhole offset.

thank you dan.! you are amazing. thanks.
 

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MeltingGlass

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www.bedazzletubes.com
Ok you guys I think its time we all have a class in glass working 101
First things first. I'm am a glass artist. I love glass and I love to melt it. I've been melting, faceting, grinding, molding, blowing, cutting, drilling, pulling, crushing and painting glass for over 10 years. My love of glass has taken me to the Czech Republic many times to study and research old glass tequniques used over 100 yrs ago. Here is a simple explanation I learned about glass from a old Czech master glass worker.

Glass is made of pure white sand and soda-lime. (Remember this is a simple explanation).
Think of glass as a soda bottle and its filled with sand. The sand is settled to the bottom and the soda is floating on the top. Nothing is disturbing the bottle of sand (glass). Everything is stable. Then someone comes along and bumps the table the soda bottle is sitting on.
Or starts heating up the glass tube. The sand starts to get mixed up into the soda and it starts to get a little cloudy.
Fire polishing or heating a glass tube will make your glass unstable. Then you pick the soda bottle up and shake it or your glass starts melting now you've reached a point were there is nothing you can do to settle the sand/glass down and it needs to sit or go into a kiln and and be annealed at 960 degress undisturbed for a period of time. This is the only way for your glass to go back to normal or settle back down.
Try to keep these simple principles in mind when working with your quartz glass and come up with even better
ways to build your tanks.
Of course there are many, many other veritables involved but you first need to know the basics.

If you can't place an order from TGP I'd be happy to place my normal monthly order and just get extra for everyone. I can send the tubes to your designated co-op guy after I receive the tubes.

Bedazzle
 
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Cjax

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Just some food for thought, porous ceramic tube. Do you think the exterior and thus the coil would become wet from seepage? Enough to corrode the coil? It would seem that it should help with airflow, but the point is to keep not only the wick isolated from the coil, but the coil isolated from the juice. And would it being porous take away from it's thermal conductivity or add to it? I saw some suggesting NON-porous ceramic tubing and like others have stated it turned me away to read that it's an "excellent thermal insulator" when the whole point is to transfer heat.
 

mkhyper1

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just finished a tank with this.
meshwick.
4mm od x 8mm long glasstube.
flat ribbon kanthal 1/32 x .0031''.
1.2ohms 3.7v.
90degrees airhole offset.

thank you dan.! you are amazing. thanks.

Thanks for the pic and the specs on the setup. I really like the idea of the Flat Kanthal. The big question is - how does it vape?
 

dsy5

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Just some food for thought, porous ceramic tube. Do you think the exterior and thus the coil would become wet from seepage? Enough to corrode the coil? It would seem that it should help with airflow, but the point is to keep not only the wick isolated from the coil, but the coil isolated from the juice. And would it being porous take away from it's thermal conductivity or add to it? I saw some suggesting NON-porous ceramic tubing and like others have stated it turned me away to read that it's an "excellent thermal insulator" when the whole point is to transfer heat.

Porous ceramic is also a 'good' insulator; 'bad' for us. The air in it due to porousity may even make it a better insulator than non-porous.
 

dsy5

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Thanks for the pic and the specs on the setup. I really like the idea of the Flat Kanthal. The big question is - how does it vape?

Also a big question, where did you get the flat kanthal and what did you pay for it? Not to mention, the rig looks good.

Edit: I see you are in the Philippines, never mind on where you got it, unless it's easily obtainable from the US.
 
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dsy5

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Ok you guys I think its time we all have a class in glass working 101

Thanks again Kathy, it nice to have someone who is an expert chime in and enlighten us 'tinkerers'. As you stated to me earlier, I thought I should add that fused quartz glass is much more toxic when heated than Pyrex and that extra care should be taken to use good ventilation when heating and forming it.
 
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