The Reuleaux by JayBo Designs

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Tpat591

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I planned on doing this eventually as well, but in no rush to do so. Or until my warranty runs its course will I do it.
Agreed. Mine are holding up well so far but don't inspire confidence. DNA200 & RX200 at least have room to work a bit, but Evic VTC the 510 comes right down on top of the board. That is why I pretty much use the stock tanks on the VTCs.
 

Swede

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Well,

Got mine in today, LOVE it...

It's bigger and heavier than the VT40 that's been my ADV for the last 6mo, but compact enough that it fits comfortably in a jean pocket beside my wallet. (Jeans are my every day attire, and I don't wear hipster skinny jeans, just normal grown man pants :) ) Note 4 in once pocket, wallet/30ml juice/device in the other pocket... It's how I've been doing it for years. It's not appreciably heavier than my old VTR, and more compact than it or a vape flask clone.

The hobbyist in my loves the Escribe functionality which gives an inside look into how things are working, but the practical side of me knows that once I've got things dialed in I'll likely not use it much.

It's my first day, and I'm sure I'll learn more, but overall I'm very pleased with it. For those that already own DNA200 devices, this is old news, for those on the fence, GO FOR IT!!!

Thanks for the helpful links to the poster above, I used these and will run the case analyzer soon myself.

Cheers

Edit to add, man is this ever comfortable in the hand. If I feel the need for a cheap backup I might get a RX, depending on how the wifes VTC mini works out (similar joyetech chips and all...)
 
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Swede

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Great device for a modwomper? Not sure.

Me, I'm here (midway between a tootle and a cloudchuker?) this device gives amazing battery life. 3 days, yep, 3... LOVE that Try that with a LiPo in another DNA200 config, this is where it's at.

For the life of me, I haven't cracked the TC code yet, tried many times and keep bouncing back to Kanthal and loving it..

Unflavored nic with kanthal seems to net no benefit with TC, but massive batt life makes me still happy I got this one.

Any suggestions?
 
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TrueNorthist

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I am yet to actually buy this device but I am reading as much as I can in advance, so cheers to all for the tips and the discussion. Still lots more study to go but I have decided if the one I get has the ribbon issue I am going to try either gluing the ribbon together on the inside of the "loop" at some point to secure it away from the button, or fab up some kind of non-conductive clip for the same purpose — maybe with an insulator in between the ribbon? Not completely folding the ribbon over, just brining the loop together away from the button.

Hopefully the device I end up with will have been "fixed" prior to purchase and I will not have to bother. As for the wiring itself and the poor grounding(?) I will deal with those on an as-needed basis. I have not yet seen anything that puts me off buying this device, so I am still go for purchase.
 

Carnage9270

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Just an FYI. The ribbon issue everyone speaks of is not as critical as everyone makes out. The ribbon isn't mashed between the button, it is on the edge of the button and moves up and down ever so slightly when you fire the button. The amount of movement here is ever so slight. By the time the ribbon wears out, if it ever does (which I highly doubt), this mod will be so far out of date it will be in a museum. Ribbon cables are actually very tough, you just don't want to fold them or create sharp bends. This whole ribbon gate thing is way overblown. If you truly are worried about it, the fix is extremely quick and easy. The ribbon loops ---> this way, you pull the screen up slightly and make it loop <--- this way under the screen. Tucking it under the screen does not create a loop sharp enough to do damage, unless of course you follow some of the more ridiculous "guides" to doing it.

All I'm really trying to say here is if the screen "problem" is something that worries you about the device, just buy the damn thing and forget about it.
 
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Daddy

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Could someone please be so kind that shares their sony VTC5 discharge profile? found one but for some reason im unable to dload it from filedropper

Should probably run the battery analyzer yourself for your specific batteries. It is easy - I took two 18 inch pieces of wire and made "rabbit ears" and put them on an RDA (Velocity clone) and started the analyzer. The analyzer ran for about an hour and half and the wire never glowed at all - although I would certainly recommend monitoring the device while the analyzer is running.

Here is a picture similar to how I set my device up:

mIKeXd0.jpg


I do not use VCT5's - I use LGHG2's - and the device now charges and discharges my batteries to .01 volts within each other. For an hour's time it is definitely worth it - I wish all my devices had just THIS technology.
 

Daddy

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Just an FYI. The ribbon issue everyone speaks of is not as critical as everyone makes out. The ribbon isn't mashed between the button, it is on the edge of the button and moves up and down ever so slightly when you fire the button. The amount of movement here is ever so slight. By the time the ribbon wears out, if it ever does (which I highly doubt), this mod will be so far out of date it will be in a museum. Ribbon cables are actually very tough, you just don't want to fold them or create sharp bends. This whole ribbon gate thing is way overblown. If you truly are worried about it, the fix is extremely quick and easy. The ribbon loops ---> this way, you pull the screen up slightly and make it loop <--- this way under the screen. Tucking it under the screen does not create a loop sharp enough to do damage, unless of course you follow some of the more ridiculous "guides" to doing it.

All I'm really trying to say here is if the screen "problem" is something that worries you about the device, just buy the damn thing and forget about it.

So, is there truth to your post? I ask because I've read the hysteria as well. I assumed (for no good reason) that the ribbon issue might fall under the 1 year warranty so I did not bother myself with it. I figured the risk of me opening up the case and trying not to break something exceeded the risk that the cable would break and not be covered under warranty.

Your post puts me at ease that the issue is being blown up for no good reason. I just hope you are right.
 

retird

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KenD

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Just an FYI. The ribbon issue everyone speaks of is not as critical as everyone makes out. The ribbon isn't mashed between the button, it is on the edge of the button and moves up and down ever so slightly when you fire the button. The amount of movement here is ever so slight. By the time the ribbon wears out, if it ever does (which I highly doubt), this mod will be so far out of date it will be in a museum. Ribbon cables are actually very tough, you just don't want to fold them or create sharp bends. This whole ribbon gate thing is way overblown. If you truly are worried about it, the fix is extremely quick and easy. The ribbon loops ---> this way, you pull the screen up slightly and make it loop <--- this way under the screen. Tucking it under the screen does not create a loop sharp enough to do damage, unless of course you follow some of the more ridiculous "guides" to doing it.

All I'm really trying to say here is if the screen "problem" is something that worries you about the device, just buy the damn thing and forget about it.
This. Has anyone actually experienced a ribbon failure on the Reuleaux? I seem to recall that some Hanas had that problem, but don't think I've heard anything such on the Reuleaux. I'll be getting mine soon and I feel really uncomfortable doing the ribbon fix. With my luck I'll break the thing.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

TrueNorthist

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This. Has anyone actually experienced a ribbon failure on the Reuleaux? I seem to recall that some Hanas had that problem, but don't think I've heard anything such on the Reuleaux. I'll be getting mine soon and I feel really uncomfortable doing the ribbon fix. With my luck I'll break the thing.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
All I have seen so far is anecdotal, but the subject is discussed at length at the Evolve Forum here. Lots of references to "plenty" of these devices failing, but I am yet to read or hear about a failure first hand from someone who experienced it for themselves. Plus, Wismec supposedly has made changes so either there is the potential or they are simply dealing with the panic in the only way they can.

It sure would be nice if it's just hysteria, but for me the "issue" is moot as the fix — if needed — is simple. I am more concerned about the 510 but even that won't stop me buying one. I considered just the board, but I like this mod a lot (I have an rx) and even if I have to modify it I will still be satisfied. Besides, I like to tinker anyway.
 

khrone

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Should probably run the battery analyzer yourself for your specific batteries. It is easy - I took two 18 inch pieces of wire and made "rabbit ears" and put them on an RDA (Velocity clone) and started the analyzer. The analyzer ran for about an hour and half and the wire never glowed at all - although I would certainly recommend monitoring the device while the analyzer is running.

Here is a picture similar to how I set my device up:

mIKeXd0.jpg


I do not use VCT5's - I use LGHG2's - and the device now charges and discharges my batteries to .01 volts within each other. For an hour's time it is definitely worth it - I wish all my devices had just THIS technology.
So might as well run the analyser for my self to get accurate readings... cant hurt though... any specific wattage to let it run or just plain defaults?

Lähetetty minun SM-G901F laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 

Daddy

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So might as well run the analyser for my self to get accurate readings... cant hurt though... any specific wattage to let it run or just plain defaults?

Lähetetty minun SM-G901F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

Default is 40 watts and that seems to work good. Just try to make a large enough loop that it doesn't get hot. If I recall correctly 2 18 inch loops of 24g Kanthal came out to 1.5 ohm or thereabouts.

The test automatically fires the box for 4 or 5 seconds (I forget which) and rests for 4 or 5 seconds and then repeats until the batteries are drained. Start with fresh fully charged batteries.
 

khrone

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Default is 40 watts and that seems to work good. Just try to make a large enough loop that it doesn't get hot. If I recall correctly 2 18 inch loops of 24g Kanthal came out to 1.5 ohm or thereabouts.

The test automatically fires the box for 4 or 5 seconds (I forget which) and rests for 4 or 5 seconds and then repeats until the batteries are drained. Start with fresh fully charged batteries.
Just now having my batteries charge for the test, probably gonna get it done tonight. Thanks for the help

Lähetetty minun SM-G901F laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 
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JimScotty0

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Someone posted a link a few pages back, but they were on Ebay. I know the seller has a website called cigreen.com. The listing on Ebay is priced way high (like out of stock high) place holder price.
I found one on eBay. They state they are specific for either DNA200 or RX200 for $12.95. Tons of colors to choose from and free shipping. Must be the firing buttons that are a little different as well as the screen window.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Ca...hash=item41a2150a7b:m:mC-rw2vVC2hF2rMmAoVtBZw
Silicone Case for Wismec Reuleaux DNA 200 Sleeve DNA200 Cover Skin Wrap

Just bought a Red/Black one. :w00t:
 
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