Maybe its just me but anything that is "poisonous if ingested" I wouldn't put anywhere near my devices let alone on or near one of my RBA's.
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Maybe its just me but anything that is "poisonous if ingested" I wouldn't put anywhere near my devices let alone on or near one of my RBA's.
yes, the k-nano kits will work on a 91%
I have two R91% and two nano steel kits from ecig mod factory. The steel tank pieces work but the chimney top piece does NOT thread on to the chimney tube of the R91%. It does work with my Kayfun light plus and Ehpro kayfun clone.
not to derail the current conversation, but I just got my 91 today built a nice 1.4 micro coil and loaded her up with pink spot swagger and im in vaping heaven !!!!
the flavor is amazing!!!!!!
the flavor is amazing!!!!!!
Is there any way to tell what version of the Russian you have?
Also, if I wanted to get a clone for backup does anyone have an opinion on which is best? Ehpro vs tobeco vs hcigar vs ?
Also, if I wanted to get a clone for backup does anyone have an opinion on which is best? Ehpro vs tobeco vs hcigar vs ?
ahh good show! hard to beat a KF with a micro and cotton.not to derail the current conversation, but I just got my 91 today built a nice 1.4 micro coil and loaded her up with pink spot swagger and im in vaping heaven !!!!
the flavor is amazing!!!!!!
Yeah I had a v1 and a v2 and looked at them side by side, I should have taken pics.. but with the v1 you can tell the machining on the tank kit is different I guess because of the lower grade SS. With the v1 it feels like U can see lines going across the satin finish, with the v2 it seems seamless I can't see any lines it looks very smooth. Other than that I couldn't really tell at a quick glance
does anyone else have a problem with there 510 connection screw? When I tighten the screw to tighten the positive post so it doesn't move around my 510 connection isn't flush with the bottom base anymore so it doesn't make connection with my mods.. I'm wondering if I got a defective unit if anyone else is having this kind of problem.. I never had this kind of problem with my original KFL or KFL+
you gotta take the little screw out first, then snugly tighten the screw/post that threads into the positive post. after that's tite then add the little 510 screw, if you have to add a second tiny oring to bring it out more...
So you're saying it works differently than the KFL+ 510 scew? with the KFL I just screw the 510 screw while applying opposite pressure on the positive post so it stays align and do that till it's tight
actually wont really know till tomorrow, when my kfl+ arrives...
but I know i'v seen it posted here to screw the positive post screw down first then add the small screw.. least that's how I did it with my 91
The R91% is a two piece design. Unscrew 510 connector, tighten center post while holding positive block in place, replace 510 connector.
KFL+ is one piece center post and 510 connection. Tighten while holding positive block in place.
KFL+ is one piece center post and 510 connection. Tighten while holding positive block in place.
Yeah, OK, the Russian is amazing. I built a chimney coil and tried using the silica wick. Not really feasible. So I built a horizontal coil, 30 Ga 11/10 around a 3/32 drill bit (1.4 ohms) and I ran it at 45degrees like I saw on some YouTube video, and tried the silica. Again, a no go. The silica is worthless. So I went to Rite Aid and grabbed some rolled sterile cotton and wicked my horizontal coil. I have to pat myself on the back, my first functional coil looks beautiful. I'll snap some images when my tank runs dry, I am so proud of it.
I can't believe what I have been missing. The flavor at 7.2 watts is ridiculous. It is like I am drinking the liquid after it has been warmed up. The clouds are massive. The draw is nice and airy, and the throat hit is solid, but smooth not overwhelming or harsh at all.
My thoughts on the construction and use of the unit are almost all positive. The center pin is seriously annoying, I do have to admit. It comes beautifully boxed with kanthal, silica, various assorted o-rings and screws, a nice enough screw driver, and a juice bottle with a needle. The finish seems decent to me, I am not experiencing the issues I have seen complaints about in this thread, but it is a fingerprint magnet. My unit does not whistle or make any more noise than any of my other tanks. In fact it is almost dead quiet. So far I have no leaks aside from when I first got it going. I just put too much liquid in the chamber and a little built up in the air bleed. After getting the excess cleared out I have experienced no issues. The fitment is all pretty good, although I admit I did expect the threads to be a bit smoother. But I know that in time with removing and replacing components that the threads will not be so grainy.
I am interested in seeing how the Kayfun stands up in comparison, with so many people saying it is of better quality. We'll see when it gets here.
I can't believe what I have been missing. The flavor at 7.2 watts is ridiculous. It is like I am drinking the liquid after it has been warmed up. The clouds are massive. The draw is nice and airy, and the throat hit is solid, but smooth not overwhelming or harsh at all.
My thoughts on the construction and use of the unit are almost all positive. The center pin is seriously annoying, I do have to admit. It comes beautifully boxed with kanthal, silica, various assorted o-rings and screws, a nice enough screw driver, and a juice bottle with a needle. The finish seems decent to me, I am not experiencing the issues I have seen complaints about in this thread, but it is a fingerprint magnet. My unit does not whistle or make any more noise than any of my other tanks. In fact it is almost dead quiet. So far I have no leaks aside from when I first got it going. I just put too much liquid in the chamber and a little built up in the air bleed. After getting the excess cleared out I have experienced no issues. The fitment is all pretty good, although I admit I did expect the threads to be a bit smoother. But I know that in time with removing and replacing components that the threads will not be so grainy.
I am interested in seeing how the Kayfun stands up in comparison, with so many people saying it is of better quality. We'll see when it gets here.
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So basically if you can see machining lines its a V1? Anyone else able to do this to tell the difference? Is the general consensus the first version was better or the second?
I will be getting my first russian 91% (first kayfun of any kind) this week hopefully. Are there any tips or tricks I should know? I have already watched videos on how to put a coil/wick on it so I think im ready for that aspect but im a little hazy on how the adjustable 510 connection part works.
When I get my v2 back from KP i'll take a side by side macro pics of them, I think they should both preform the same but the finish to me seems a little bit better on the v2 like the exterior finish the matte finish seems a lot smoother on v1 it seems a little gritty I can tell a difference but the threads felt the same. I think I just had a bad unit..
Oh I found an example of what i'm talking about u see what i'm talking about the lines? the v1 quality every so slightly looks like that and the v2 seems like very smooth can't see any lines.
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100% see what you mean. The V1 has lines something like the squape has on its tank cover aka you can see where the cutting tool cut them out. Cool, something to look for when I get my russian.
I have some more questions. Does anyone know if the russian is made in china or is it made in germany? Also, how clean was your russian when you got it? Did it require intense soap scrubs and alcohol soaks like some stuff or have they already got the machine oil / swarf out pretty good?
I have some more questions. Does anyone know if the russian is made in china or is it made in germany? Also, how clean was your russian when you got it? Did it require intense soap scrubs and alcohol soaks like some stuff or have they already got the machine oil / swarf out pretty good?
The Russian is made in China.
According to this thread some people complained of a lot of machine oil and some material in their units. Some also complained of their units not being assembled at all.
My center post did have a slight ribbon in the center post vent hole that I removed with the screwdriver included in the kit. Mine also came completely assembled, except for the coil, of course.
As far as machine oil or swarf, my unit had none of either. However, I did perform a quick wash with soap and water just to ensure that it was clean.
According to this thread some people complained of a lot of machine oil and some material in their units. Some also complained of their units not being assembled at all.
My center post did have a slight ribbon in the center post vent hole that I removed with the screwdriver included in the kit. Mine also came completely assembled, except for the coil, of course.
As far as machine oil or swarf, my unit had none of either. However, I did perform a quick wash with soap and water just to ensure that it was clean.
OK, I had a tiny hiccup.When I pulled the Russian off my eVic to refill it last night I had the tiniest amount of dampness at the fill screw. I assume it was from the drastic temp change from outside to inside. I took one of the tiny o-rings included in the kit and positioned it near the base of the fill screw and tightened it back down. It sealed correctly and was a perfect fit. No issues today and it is a hell of a lot colder today then yesterday. It could have possibly been that the fill screw wasn't tightened all the way (I did get a slight turn when I tried to snug it down) but I wasn't taking a chance.
Question for my upcoming first build. I see a mix of people saying they just kind of tuck the wicks down after putting the base of the chimney on (like pbusardo did in his video) and then i see people that wet & position them before putting the chimney on (like the manual says and i think rip trippers does in his video). Anyone have any pictures / advice for my initial set up?
You'll be fine using that on the 510 threads of the R91 and others like it. I've been using DeOxit on my mods for the same purpose. And all my atomizers get the air flow from the side rather than through the 510 connection. Even if flooded, the R91 doesn't leak through the 510 pin.
Naturally, you'll want to clean it thoroughly if you put one of those other devices on there. I clean it and other electrical contacts regularly with 99% Isopropyl alcohol anyway.
Naturally, you'll want to clean it thoroughly if you put one of those other devices on there. I clean it and other electrical contacts regularly with 99% Isopropyl alcohol anyway.
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