Either method works fine although I have found that if you set up your coil at an angle like how the manual displays the coil layout I like to set up the wicks before I put on the chimney. I think if you set up the coils so it's just completely perpendicular to the posts you can put in the wicks after you put on the chimney. At least for me is because at an angle the wick when placed after the chimney is put on doesn't seem to position as well, also when I initially set up the coils before putting on the chimney I tend to wet the wicks with juice and press them against the posts but after the chimney is set in place I take a thin needle 20gauge and push the wicks back out so they lay directly over the juice channel so that they aren't up against the posts. hope that helps
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Either method works fine although I have found that if you set up your coil at an angle like how the manual displays the coil layout I like to set up the wicks before I put on the chimney. I think if you set up the coils so it's just completely perpendicular to the posts you can put in the wicks after you put on the chimney. At least for me is because at an angle the wick when placed after the chimney is put on doesn't seem to position as well, also when I initially set up the coils before putting on the chimney I tend to wet the wicks with juice and press them against the posts but after the chimney is set in place I take a thin needle 20gauge and push the wicks back out so they lay directly over the juice channel so that they aren't up against the posts. hope that helps
I've had my 91 for about 2 months now.. Just yesterday did I break down and fix the damn center pin/post.. this is a million times better.
If you were struggling with the screw not making contact with your mods and/or the bridge moving around on you, take the time and fix it up. So much better now.
If you were struggling with the screw not making contact with your mods and/or the bridge moving around on you, take the time and fix it up. So much better now.
Further explanation? I will be getting mine new soon and I would like to make sure I have everything set up right the first time.
In the build videos I have watched they seem to say that you should keep the wicks clear of the juice channels?
I make sure my wick is laying on the deck but away from the channels. after the first part of the chimney is on I take a tiny screwdriver and make sure they're on the deck and against the wall
imo you don't want to block the juice channels but at the same time you want the wick on the deck to soak up all it can
So in theory when its all assembled the deck will have a some mm of juice in it? I had been wondering if the juice just kind of sits at the top of the juice channel or if it actually comes in and fills up the deck platform area to some extent ?
The center pin is actually two pieces.. A screw (that you see) and then further into the device, that screw connects to a rod that threads into the deck holding that bridge in place. They come very tightly connected from the factory, so that if you need to adjust the center pin (raise or lower it to make contact with your mod), adjusting it can loosed the bridge from the deck.
Basically if you notice the bridge moving when you are adjusting the center pin (this can wildly change your resistance), take the entire center pin apart. Screw in the rod and tighten it so the deck doesn't move, then put the screw back into place.
Here's a diagram, might be easier to understand that way.
http://ukvapers.org/attachment.php?aid=17552
From this thread (worth a read) - Russian 91% Issues
If you go on the kayfun lite thread I forgot where read around page 500+ look for donnah post quoting turbocad6 he talks about laying the wicks on top of the juice channels because when you pull in liquid it will soak up the juice right away if it's closer to the posts any juice that doesn't get soaked up will fall back down and not be used. As long as you don't use a needle and push / jam the wicks into the juice channels you won't have a problem with blocking the juice channels. try both methods and see what works best for u
^I've had the best luck with covering the channels. I got lucky a few times with just placing them by it, but I mostly got a ton of flooding.
Does anyone subohm? I have a 0.7ohm coil, but I can only use it if I pull really hard. If I hit it normally, it tastes burnt. Can I file out the drip wells or something? It's way too cold and airy with lower power use. Thanks
Does anyone subohm? I have a 0.7ohm coil, but I can only use it if I pull really hard. If I hit it normally, it tastes burnt. Can I file out the drip wells or something? It's way too cold and airy with lower power use. Thanks
getting my russian 91 tomorrow in the mail...from the looks of it im gonna prob have to refinish it if i want it to look good with my black provari mini. Thing is ive never finished anything lol so if someone can guide me through the steps... which scotchbrite/3m pad used? Clean it after brushing: Polish creme/cloth used?... etc
Also... I plan on getting a MTank with it for visual aspects so ill probably be refinishing less parts of the russian, right?...but if i refinish the piece that has the Russian 91 print on it.. will it also come off? Reason i ask is that i kinda wanted to keep the print
edit: im ordering my "mtank" from here as its cheaper and cheaper shipping http://coolvape.com/products/aqua-clear-tank-by-centuri the vaperev mtank is plastic anyways but does any one object?
Also... I plan on getting a MTank with it for visual aspects so ill probably be refinishing less parts of the russian, right?...but if i refinish the piece that has the Russian 91 print on it.. will it also come off? Reason i ask is that i kinda wanted to keep the print
edit: im ordering my "mtank" from here as its cheaper and cheaper shipping http://coolvape.com/products/aqua-clear-tank-by-centuri the vaperev mtank is plastic anyways but does any one object?
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My KFL+ has a 0.8Ω vertical chimney coil that tastes great whether on my vv device or on my mech even with a fresh battery. Lots of cotton around the coil that keeps it plenty wet no matter how hard I pull. I haven't tried going below that, though.
I'm not sub, but right at the 1ohm range.. when I get 'burnt' or consistently 'off' hits, I unscrew the top piece a bit to break the vacuum seal, and then put it right back on. That usually fixes things for me. By top piece, I'm referring to the top 'cap', or the top-most portion of the tank parts.. it's the very top of the tank section, just about a few mm in height, before it turns into the slimmer portion. I unscrew the whole thing, everything above it still attached, and then put it right back.
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Did anyone have a weird taste with there r91 out of the box? I ended up boiling it in hot water yesterday and the flavor is normal now.
Also, Brandon, the first screw that goes into the deck; how tight do you tighten that into it? I try to screw it in as tight as possible, but it can still move slightly with decent pressure.
Also, Brandon, the first screw that goes into the deck; how tight do you tighten that into it? I try to screw it in as tight as possible, but it can still move slightly with decent pressure.
I got it in pretty tight.. I took the metal bridge piece off completely and put the rod/screw though, and made sure it was sticking through the plastic insulator a bit a bit, then put the bridge piece back on and tightened it up. I could probably still move the bridge piece if I wanted to do, but not without some effort. As long as adjusting the center pin doesn't adjust the bridge, you're OK. That was the main problem.. if it was too loose, adjusting the center pin would move the bridge, causing resistance to jump up quite a bit.. my 1.1 ohm coil went to 6.5 ohms because of that movement.
Good to hear. Yea, I mean I have to put a decent amount of pressure on it for it to move.
Btw, if any of you guys get a little bit of a dry hit, are you suppose to put your finger over the air hole and suck in? This seems to resolve any dry hits, but if done to much has caused me flooding with liquid coming out of the airhole.
Not sure if you ordered yet? I just ordered one literally a minute ago from Vapor Kings.
$85.77 shipped with coupon code "shanty" (10% off)
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BTW... considering I Just ordered minutes ago from Vapor Kings, does anyone know If I'll be receiving the V1 or V2? Will be happy either way, but just curious. Is it marked on the box or how would I identify which one it is?
Should be the latest version. That's what the guy at vapor kings told me.
I have received what is suppose to be the v2, i dont have v1 but for what i can tell the v1 have machining marks on the tank and the chimy is satin sandblasted like the finish on the body, my "v2" have a very smooth finish and the chimey is mirror like shiny finish.
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