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Mudd,
Take the whole assembly out of the UFS first, this relieves the pressure. If you cannot get any of it out, use a socket on the flat metal nut first and the a pair of needle nose pliers on the plastic. You will not have to use much pressure, just enough to keep the pliers from slipping. This may leave marks in your plastic though. If you can fit a rubber band between the pliers and the plastic, it should keep from marking the plastic.
Do NOT use too much pressure! You run the risk of breaking or deforming the plastic.
If your center pin is not leaking, I would not even take it apart.
Take the whole assembly out of the UFS first, this relieves the pressure. If you cannot get any of it out, use a socket on the flat metal nut first and the a pair of needle nose pliers on the plastic. You will not have to use much pressure, just enough to keep the pliers from slipping. This may leave marks in your plastic though. If you can fit a rubber band between the pliers and the plastic, it should keep from marking the plastic.
Do NOT use too much pressure! You run the risk of breaking or deforming the plastic.
If your center pin is not leaking, I would not even take it apart.
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Thank you for adding my instructions to the Wiki! I'm honored. I am glad they could be helpful.
You may want to add a note to not take apart the center pin assembly unless it is leaking.
You may want to add a note to not take apart the center pin assembly unless it is leaking.
Pulled the center pin and couldn't replace without tearing one ring. So I had to take it apart, got her done and all is well with my pin. Good thing I have extra rings. Thanks
Added to the wiki pages.
Thank you for sharing your expertise. This is what GG family makes invincible!
Just a little tip on taking apart that center pin......I used a socket to grap the steel nut and twisted off the plastic nut by hand....using a surgical glove to grip it. Came right off.
Yep, a 10mm socket is the exact for for both the center pin nut and the top of the power button. Using the method Strpr suggests preserves the plastic. Even if it is tough getting it off the first time, just use finger pressure to re-tighten that delrin insulator cap back down.
Makes it a lot easier to get it off when next it is required too. The good news is if you scar up the insulator cap. Bruce keeps them in stock if you're OCD like me about scratched up delrin inside my GGTS! 
Makes it a lot easier to get it off when next it is required too.
The good news is if you scar up the insulator cap. Bruce keeps them in stock if you're OCD like me about scratched up delrin inside my GGTS!
Yep, a 10mm socket is the exact for for both the center pin nut and the top of the power button. Using the method Strpr suggests preserves the plastic. Even if it is tough getting it off the first time, just use finger pressure to re-tighten that delrin insulator cap back down.
Makes it a lot easier to get it off when next it is required too.
I really don't like the idea of using pliers on plastic threaded parts......The gloves actually help on the whole assembly......My GG is a slippery little bugger...lol
They were so detailed inq. Maybe the best description I have even seen.!
Thats a nice trick str. I do that already. Those gloves are not slippery at all and they do the job.
I'm sorry, I should have clarified. Only use the pliers on the shoulder above the threads. Never use pliers on threads, unless you don't want them to work any more. The pliers were only if the plastic insulator stayed in the connector after the hex nut is removed.
Thank you so much Imeo! That means a lot coming from the master himself!
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