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The (un)Official countdown to UFS thread

Discussion in 'The GG' started by Major, Sep 8, 2011.

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  1. muddstar

    muddstar Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 12, 2009
    Spokane
    then the flat metal nut threaded end up, then the 2 tiny o rings, then the plastic piece cup side down. Is there a secret to getting the nut and cup apart?
     
  2. inquisitorj

    inquisitorj Super Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 24, 2010
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Mudd,

    Take the whole assembly out of the UFS first, this relieves the pressure. If you cannot get any of it out, use a socket on the flat metal nut first and the a pair of needle nose pliers on the plastic. You will not have to use much pressure, just enough to keep the pliers from slipping. This may leave marks in your plastic though. If you can fit a rubber band between the pliers and the plastic, it should keep from marking the plastic.

    Do NOT use too much pressure! You run the risk of breaking or deforming the plastic.

    If your center pin is not leaking, I would not even take it apart.
     
  3. inquisitorj

    inquisitorj Super Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 24, 2010
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Thank you for adding my instructions to the Wiki! I'm honored. I am glad they could be helpful.

    You may want to add a note to not take apart the center pin assembly unless it is leaking.
     
  4. muddstar

    muddstar Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 12, 2009
    Spokane
    Pulled the center pin and couldn't replace without tearing one ring. So I had to take it apart, got her done and all is well with my pin. Good thing I have extra rings. Thanks
     
  5. clyde2801

    clyde2801 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Just got mine in, thanks, Big! A simple question that I'm almost embarrassed to ask...I'm presuming screwing the center tank down (into the top of the ggts) decreases the juice amount to the atty, and screwing it up (ha, ha, ha) increases it I (like the air control ring)?
     
  6. muddstar

    muddstar Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 12, 2009
    Spokane
    It's the opposite Clyde.
     
  7. clyde2801

    clyde2801 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    OH, that would make a difference! Thanks, mudd!
     
  8. gredie

    gredie Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jun 23, 2011
    GG, Austria
    Added to the wiki pages.:)

    Thank you for sharing your expertise. This is what GG family makes invincible!:toast:
     
  9. strprswpr

    strprswpr Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 29, 2011
    Bronx, NY
    Just a little tip on taking apart that center pin......I used a socket to grap the steel nut and twisted off the plastic nut by hand....using a surgical glove to grip it. Came right off.
     
  10. Major

    Major Supplier Associate ECF Veteran

    Mar 22, 2011
    Panama City, Florida
    Yep, a 10mm socket is the exact for for both the center pin nut and the top of the power button. Using the method Strpr suggests preserves the plastic. Even if it is tough getting it off the first time, just use finger pressure to re-tighten that delrin insulator cap back down.

    Makes it a lot easier to get it off when next it is required too. ;) The good news is if you scar up the insulator cap. Bruce keeps them in stock if you're OCD like me about scratched up delrin inside my GGTS! :laugh:
     
  11. strprswpr

    strprswpr Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 29, 2011
    Bronx, NY
    I really don't like the idea of using pliers on plastic threaded parts......The gloves actually help on the whole assembly......My GG is a slippery little bugger...lol
     
  12. imeothanasis

    imeothanasis Unregistered Supplier ECF Veteran

    Feb 13, 2009
    Athens, Hellas
    They were so detailed inq. Maybe the best description I have even seen.!
     
  13. imeothanasis

    imeothanasis Unregistered Supplier ECF Veteran

    Feb 13, 2009
    Athens, Hellas
    Thats a nice trick str. I do that already. Those gloves are not slippery at all and they do the job.
     
  14. inquisitorj

    inquisitorj Super Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 24, 2010
    Santa Rosa, CA
    I'm sorry, I should have clarified. Only use the pliers on the shoulder above the threads. Never use pliers on threads, unless you don't want them to work any more. The pliers were only if the plastic insulator stayed in the connector after the hex nut is removed.
     
  15. inquisitorj

    inquisitorj Super Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 24, 2010
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Thank you so much Imeo! That means a lot coming from the master himself!
     
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