Your atty's resistance has nothing to do with the installed resistor. For all intents and purposes, your atty is on a separate circuit.
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The YiHi SX350 35W Chip at Varitube
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I will be opening up and replacing my switch today when I figure it out ill post about it. But it looks like the drawing above should help.
Thats for picking that up. Strange though my browser which is just Chrome on Win 8 corrected it...interesting. Nontheless I corrected the link.....thanks again!
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Yihi just posted these specs on their Facebook page. 80 watts in bypass mode!?
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1A micro usb charger? I thought it was 500mah? What's this 0.09v battery output voltage?
Thanks, I like that method. Can you help out a first time newbie even further? I get those two wires you explained, but that is in additon to hooking up the positive and negative from the chip? Technically, what are the 4 posts on the LED switch? Positive, Negative, and what are the other 2?
Duh...I think I got it. There are +/- for the switch, and +/- for the LED. Right?
Wow, brain fart!!
Ha! This will be my very first mod and dont have electronics experience. So doing ALL of the research I can before diving in. You guys are a GREAT help!
OK so here is the LED lighted switch method I used. I followed the diagram that was posted.
Here is the back of the switch I wired the lead marked - to one of the switched leads. Lets call this the "jumper"
I then prepared a wire with a 100ohm resistor and some heat shrink. the wire end goes to the + on the back of the switch.
The resistor goes to the positive lead to the battery and the sx-350 board.
Using a multi meter I tested the sx-350 switch leads and found the one that is ground by using the ohms setting and the batteries negative point and attached it to the non-jumped point on the switch.
The other sx-350 switch lead goes to the jumped switch point.
All wired up. Not much room in there. Be careful you don't short anything. I used Kapton tape and heat shrink tubing.
IT WORKS!!!
Here is the back of the switch I wired the lead marked - to one of the switched leads. Lets call this the "jumper"
I then prepared a wire with a 100ohm resistor and some heat shrink. the wire end goes to the + on the back of the switch.
The resistor goes to the positive lead to the battery and the sx-350 board.
Using a multi meter I tested the sx-350 switch leads and found the one that is ground by using the ohms setting and the batteries negative point and attached it to the non-jumped point on the switch.
The other sx-350 switch lead goes to the jumped switch point.
All wired up. Not much room in there. Be careful you don't short anything. I used Kapton tape and heat shrink tubing.
IT WORKS!!!
Doesn't the ground (negative) switch wire go to the jumped tab on the switch? That is what the drawing shows.
No if you put the ground there the LED will be on all the time unless that is what you want.
With the sx-350 board powered up you can mesure dc voltage across the fire button wires the positive lead goes to the jumper the negative goes to the other switch wire. Im sure in the circuit that high or + gets pulled to ground across the switch. Exactly what we need to light the LED.
If the drawing is different than what I describe go with mine if you want it to light up when you press the button.
I worked it out with my meter and switch in hand and only the memory of the drawing.
I hope that all makes sense. It is really simpler than it sounds. You have a + going to the LED all the time and your switching in a ground.
I totally understand the concept. But now I'm even more confused. If the switching is in the ground, isn't that the jumped one? But you are saying to hook the positive switch lead to the jumped negative one?
Are the pins marked +/- on the switch the led pins? Or the switch ones? I guess I am confused about hooking + to a jumped -. This is opposite of the drawing provided. So just want to make sure I understand which is the proper method.
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Ah ok... yes the +- is the LED the ones with no marking are the normally open switch.
So did you put the positive switch lead to the positive switch pin, or to the jumped negative?
Your not really putting a positive voltage to the jumper as much as providing a groung to the LED and to pull that high down to ground when you press the button and close the switch. Its digital and doesnt care how it gets a ground to fire.
When you locate the +- wires that use to go to the tact switch that came on the sx-350 board the positive wire goes so the jumper. That jumper connects across one of the switch points and the leg marked with - the ground goes to the other unmarked switch lead on the switch.
I had bought 120 LEDs awhile back and can't find the paperwork or any info about them other than they are high intensity 5mm LEDs. Is there a way to find out their Voltage rating? Also, what is the formula for finding out what size resistor you need so you don't fry them? Probably a pretty basic question, and I took electronics back in high school but that was 20+ years ago and never really used any of that knowledge since lol
Thanks,
Nathan
Without any specs the only thing you could do is start with a high resistance and go down incrementally.
With specs the formula is (supplied voltage - LED forward voltage) / LED forward current.
The power dissipated by the resistor is resistance X LED forward current X LED forward current.
You want to choose one with at least 33% greater power dissipation than calculated and I personally like to use one with double.
Here is an online caculator
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