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The YiHi SX350 35W Chip at Varitube

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DrBeaker

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How to figure out which wires go to what switch with an ohm meter.

2 of the wires are a ground and and will read 0 ohms the other two wires are your up and down switches.
Find the grounds and you will know which are the switch wires.



Hello everyone,
I have been lurking here for a while and I just finished building my first mod, an SX-350 of course! When I got it, I fired it up on the bench and got it updated and everything seemed to be fine. I soldered on one micro switch for my up/down and when I tried it the wattage went up, so I assumed I got the right 2 wires by chance and soldered up the other 2 but I didn't check it after I was done till after I had it all glued in. So, my problem is both switches made the wattage go up. I can go down using the gravity sensors so not a big problem. Now, I can get to the wires, a section of all 4 are outside of the glue so, is it possible to solder up the wires so it will only go up or did I get a bad chip? I need to figure that out before I start clipping wires.

Here are a few pics.
View attachment 376650 View attachment 376651 View attachment 376653

Thanks to anyone that can help.
Jack
 

Vlad1

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Anybody care to share what 18650 batteries have performed well up to 60W besides the Sony VTC5?

I've used 35a Efest and VTC5 and get about the same performance from both in single and dual. Have not actually done any time comparisons to see if either is better and I'm usually around a USB port to charge up throughout the day so I'm never really low but I would guess a charge would last me a full day at around 22 w before needing a charge. In single mode they both drop out at higher settings and caused the board to flash different settings presumably due to the battery's inability to keep up, I'm thinking it would do that over 50 watts or so when I was doing testing. I'm finding I'm dripping less and less these days and using Foggers most the time so I'm usually no where near 50 w so I'm not having any problems with either Efest or Sony's
 

chris85e

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Is there a way to tell what version is the chip?. Visually or using the Yihi software?

Enviado desde mi GT-I9300 mediante Tapatalk

Remove battery.
Press and hold the fire switch while putting back the battery and look at the boot up screen.

Sent from my SM-T705 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
 

DrBeaker

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I've used 35a Efest and VTC5 and get about the same performance from both in single and dual. Have not actually done any time comparisons to see if either is better and I'm usually around a USB port to charge up throughout the day so I'm never really low but I would guess a charge would last me a full day at around 22 w before needing a charge. In single mode they both drop out at higher settings and caused the board to flash different settings presumably due to the battery's inability to keep up, I'm thinking it would do that over 50 watts or so when I was doing testing. I'm finding I'm dripping less and less these days and using Foggers most the time so I'm usually no where near 50 w so I'm not having any problems with either Efest or Sony's

So your using a battery holder I take it because if you had that vtc5 soldered in and it is real it would not drop out even at 60w.... Still looking.... Is there nothing else that's an 18650 that performs as well or better than a vtc5?
 

Vlad1

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So your using a battery holder I take it because if you had that vtc5 soldered in and it is real it would not drop out even at 60w.... Still looking.... Is there nothing else that's an 18650 that performs as well or better than a vtc5?

Mathematically speaking your correct. But I don't think any single 18650 would perform at 60w for very long after a full charge. Don't forget these boards are being clipped so when your seeing 60 w the board is actually pulling 65+ watts according to YIHI's tests mine showed much more. Then add in efficiency & loss's and your not going to get very long vape time that high with a single cell. Battery technology has grown leaps and bounds since way back when I raced RC cars using NiCads but they still have limits. I read somewhere Samsung had released one comparable to the VTC5 but I don't remember where I read it and didn't look into them. What are you attempting to do that these don't meet your needs? Or are you just looking for more vape time between charging?
 

turbocad6

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yeah, I try to stay in the mid 30's myself because once you start going towards 50 & over the battery life just sucks when you're talking about a single 18650. it's easy to do a build that I like in the 50 & 60 watt range but not the most practical for daily use out and about. it's funny to see guys complaining that this "only" goes to 60 watts... but if it did 80 you'd be changing the battery every 20 minutes...

on multiple battery builds maybe it makes more sense, but then the answer to that is the new 100 watt chip anyway :)
 
Pictures aren't close enough to tell where you soldered the switches but I'd double check if I were you to make sure you put them in the correct pads. only 3 of the 4 pads are used, 1 is a common ground. Here's a image I snagged from Breaktru site.

View attachment 376703

Okay, thanks for the pic. With some other info I got I should be able to figure this out.

Thanks,
Jack
 
How to figure out which wires go to what switch with an ohm meter.

2 of the wires are a ground and and will read 0 ohms the other two wires are your up and down switches.
Find the grounds and you will know which are the switch wires.

Got it, thank you for the info. Should be able to figure this out now, just need to get the old fluke out.

Thanks again,
Jack
 

Onedesign1

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I'm running the same version and no problems at all. In fact I've handled this board way more than I'd like to getting it into this other enclosure. But if it were mine having a problem I would do a few things, first I'd reflash the chip with the current version and see if that helped. If not I'd reflash with the older version, if it was still locking I'd open it up and make sure nothing was around the switch, switch wiring or on the pcb where the switch wires attach that could be causing a short. It seems something is making the chip think the switch is being hit multiple times to get to lock or settings mode.

Thanks Vlad and everybody for all the input. I've been working on a side project and its killing me. I agree try reflashing and check exactly what Vlad here is suggesting. There;s nothing else to make go into lock. If you;re not using a clicky button its easy to get false positives on press....happens to me daily.
 

Onedesign1

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100W boards are in folks. I haven't had a chance to mess with them yet but I just listed them on the site. 1 thing is YiHi contacted me and told me not to sell the charging boards. They realized the stacked battery issue and are nervous about series charging. They are redesigning a balancing circuit of some sort. They even sent me a word doc they want me to make public about matching cells.....but I need to fix up the chinglish a hair.

Anyhow I plan on taking some physical measurements and checking against the 50W. Not sure when I will get a chance to put a box together but I do have all the parts so maybe tomorrow if I get a chance. I need to test and check against my write up on features in fact!

Here's the board Authentic YiHi SX350 100W Chip!
 

BadDaddy4007

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Thanks Vlad and everybody for all the input. I've been working on a side project and its killing me. I agree try reflashing and check exactly what Vlad here is suggesting. There;s nothing else to make go into lock. If you;re not using a clicky button its easy to get false positives on press....happens to me daily.
After running mine for a good day chain vaping, I'm happy to say that it hasn't locked up on me yet. So it seems that reinstalling the 2.4 firmware cleared it up.

Thanks Vlad.
 

Vlad1

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100W boards are in folks. I haven't had a chance to mess with them yet but I just listed them on the site. 1 thing is YiHi contacted me and told me not to sell the charging boards. They realized the stacked battery issue and are nervous about series charging. They are redesigning a balancing circuit of some sort. They even sent me a word doc they want me to make public about matching cells.....but I need to fix up the chinglish a hair.

Anyhow I plan on taking some physical measurements and checking against the 50W. Not sure when I will get a chance to put a box together but I do have all the parts so maybe tomorrow if I get a chance. I need to test and check against my write up on features in fact!

Here's the board Authentic YiHi SX350 100W Chip!

If you can't find time to test just send one my way and I'll help you out.:D
 
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