sometimes the naked dance only works when there is a full moon 
Titanium wire, vaping and safety
- Thread starter TheotherSteveS
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well phone guy, i lied i fell to the pressure of buying another dna40 this time it's an rdna40 by VaporShark with the big screen up-grade and i got a heck of a deal in the classies i just couldn't say no, so of-course i bought a skin and a blk mini freak-show for it.....next is the REO and that's it i swear hehe 
Let's hope you did the funky dance around it and the leaking is fixed
I did but not with the windows open.
That's what I was going to ask you. I think there is an o-ring or something missing in the center pin assembly. On mine there is a screw that screws into the positive plate on the build deck and then there is the positive pin that screws into the item I just mentioned it is a copper straight slot screw. The leak I am having comes out around the positive 510 pin screw not out the normal air channel.
I sure hope you understand what I just said because I have no idea what I said. If it is as confusing as I think it is I'll send or post a picture tonight.
Anyway I am off to check the vape Mail and pick up some groceries.
I did but not with the windows open.
That's what I was going to ask you. I think there is an o-ring or something missing in the center pin assembly. On mine there is a screw that screws into the positive plate on the build deck and then there is the positive pin that screws into the item I just mentioned it is a copper straight slot screw. The leak I am having comes out around the positive 510 pin screw not out the normal air channel.
I sure hope you understand what I just said because I have no idea what I said. If it is as confusing as I think it is I'll send or post a picture tonight.
Anyway I am off to check the vape Mail and pick up some groceries.
I didn't understand half, sorry lol.
The deck has two screws to hold the coil. One is on the negative (ground) deck and the other screws into the positive block which is isolated by a delrin insulator (square looking). The air tube which is part of the positive block goes through the insulator and the deck towards the bottom. When looking from the bottom, you have a half round / half square metal block with 4 lateral slots for the air that has a hole in the center with a delrin insulator inside. The bottom screw goes through that block and screws into the bottom of the airtube. There are no O-rings in any of the mentioned area. The atty has 5 o-rings total:
2 around the fill holes, 1 on top of the chimney and 2 on top and bottom of the glass... 5 total.
Tony
That's what I was afraid you'd say. The leak is down the positive stem and out around the head of the copper screw i.e. the 510 positive contact. I don't know how to stop it without putting some kind of o-ring under the screw.
Why? Just because it leaks through the pin and not the air slots? The liquid is coming from the same place... The air hole below the coil. You need to fix the source, not the exit.
There are only two possibilities:
1. I sufficient wicking / low shoulders
OR
2. No negative pressure seal
In case of #1, do the naked dance and it will solve your problem or, in case of #2, you're screwed... Might be the O-ring over the chimney, the fill holes not sealing OR the aftermarket glass tank you've put on it is too long and the center O-ring doesn't have a chance to compress and seal the chamber. Any chance you can test the original plastic tank?
Tony
I still have the original Plastic tank... just have to find it. I am pretty sure when I got the glass tank I compared them with my calipers and if not identical they were very, very close. I should also be able to test the seal by sealing the base with my hand and suck on the mouthpiece. Although I don't think it is a seal problem at least not on the Chimney o-ring I can feel it engage after just a few turns of the top plate maybe the fill O-rings. I was never very impressed with them from day one. I do have some small slightly higher durometer O-rings I can replace them with.
Have a couple of errands to run and then I will deal with the ERLk AKA PITA which is what it should have been named in the first place.
PS - All the TC and Ni200, Ti threads have been dead for days now. What's with that?
Congrats to sando7 on the buy, I've gotten some great deals here on ECF.
Congrats to everyone else for not dying from Ti poisoning.
My ni200 wire just got here today and barely had time to build 1 coil for my ChiNA40 flask to play.
I've got a bunch of genuine dna40 chips on order from a co-op here. And several mods awaiting upgrades, for my son (who's 28) , his wife, and my wife. I got my other son a sx mini m class because he likes to be the "against the grain" kind and didn't want a DNA board. But so long as everyone stays on cigs I'm happy.
I will say this, having only just barely played with temp control on nickel wire, I perceived no difference in the vape from kanthal. Obviously cooler at 420f than I'm used to... Tried 500f which was more where I like the vapor warmth to be.
I'm excited to experiment and see what I like and compared against titanium.
And finally try nickel & kanthal twisted, which is supposed to offer good results.
On a side note and off topic for the titanium thread, I was shocked how soft ni200 is, almost like solder. Now I can understand why people wanted tempered or titanium. Just wicking the ni200 loosely felt like I bent it all up.
Congrats to everyone else for not dying from Ti poisoning.
My ni200 wire just got here today and barely had time to build 1 coil for my ChiNA40 flask to play.
I've got a bunch of genuine dna40 chips on order from a co-op here. And several mods awaiting upgrades, for my son (who's 28) , his wife, and my wife. I got my other son a sx mini m class because he likes to be the "against the grain" kind and didn't want a DNA board. But so long as everyone stays on cigs I'm happy.
I will say this, having only just barely played with temp control on nickel wire, I perceived no difference in the vape from kanthal. Obviously cooler at 420f than I'm used to... Tried 500f which was more where I like the vapor warmth to be.
I'm excited to experiment and see what I like and compared against titanium.
And finally try nickel & kanthal twisted, which is supposed to offer good results.
On a side note and off topic for the titanium thread, I was shocked how soft ni200 is, almost like solder. Now I can understand why people wanted tempered or titanium. Just wicking the ni200 loosely felt like I bent it all up.
Sorry I didn't read the discussion.
Experientially, nearly pure Titanium doesn't turn to a clump of white rust until well above 900 degrees fahrenheit, and all e-juice burns (flame and all) before such energies are reached. A thin layer of oxide may be present on the surface of a piece of titanium ordinarily (no heating, etc) but it is hardly visible and cannot be scratched, scraped, or heated off until the afore-mentioned well-above-900-fahrenheit.
If significant TiO2 is being produced below 900 degrees fahrenheit (read: well above vaping temperature, well into VG/PG/Nic ignition energy), it's prolly not TiO2, but an oxide of lead (most likely, since its oxides form at low temps and resemble titanium's) or tin, or perhaps if hydrated environment, iron. So the product wasn't pulled, I'd guess, for TiO2 production, but for obvious oxidation in circumstances Titanium shouldn't oxidize so heavily.
I can confirm this. I need to torch a piece of wire for a LONG time until it glows almost white until a little dull grey area can be seen. I can't get any titanium dioxide form with regular heating or even short torching. It becomes blue, gold and any variation in between but far from dull grey and no chipping or flaking like seen in another picture around here.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
So all that's good right? Equals titanium not bad
Correct. Titanium grade 1 and reasonable alloys should be pretty darned safe.
If your titanium or alloy wire shows much flaky white after ordinary short torching or dry firing, it's not pure enough. Trash it and buy from someone who assays their lots before selling.
im beginning to wonder whether my original 24g was actually G2 on G1....it looks very different to the 28 and 30g I got from germany! Hmmm...
This was the response I got from the ring Lord about other gauge titanium wire.
I don't know enough about grades of titanium wire. So I don't know if grade 2 is worth messing with? I'm assuming grade 5 is probably not good for vaping?
I don't know enough about grades of titanium wire. So I don't know if grade 2 is worth messing with? I'm assuming grade 5 is probably not good for vaping?
grade#1 from RingLord is what you want, the 30 ga works fine all you have to do is take 2 to 3 strands and twist it in a drill and then wrap your coils.....this is also the way you can get higher resistances which imo is a much better vape.
edit: 7 wraps twisted with 2 strands on a 3/32 bit usually gets me in the ball-park of .25, .27 or so and it's 99.7% pure
edit: 7 wraps twisted with 2 strands on a 3/32 bit usually gets me in the ball-park of .25, .27 or so and it's 99.7% pure
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The German Ti (zivipf) is certified for purity and knowing that some Germans have sued their doctors for being late less than an hour for an appointment, I'm 99% confident in what they sell / claim. I lived there 10 years. You screw up / lie in something as fulcral as this, you're out of business.
My torch tests just confirmed what some knowledgeable folks on this thread have been saying. You don't get titanium dioxide leaching easily under normal operation.
The German one is rather shiny and springy.
Holman, the one you have is German
Tony
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
My torch tests just confirmed what some knowledgeable folks on this thread have been saying. You don't get titanium dioxide leaching easily under normal operation.
The German one is rather shiny and springy.
Holman, the one you have is German
Tony
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
The German Ti (zivipf) is certified for purity and knowing that some Germans have sued their doctors for being late less than an hour for an appointment, I'm 99% confident in what they sell / claim. I lived there 10 years. You screw up / lie in something as fulcral as this, you're out of business.
My torch tests just confirmed what some knowledgeable folks on this thread have been saying. You don't get titanium dioxide leaching easily under normal operation.
The German one is rather shiny and springy.
Holman, the one you have is German
Tony
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I know - I torched it pretty good and all I got was pretty colors.
I just got my Ni200 wire yesterday, I'm vaping on 3mm 30g I think it was 6 wraps in my Squape Reloaded at 0.14 ohms, 500f 25w on a Flask clone ChiNA40 chip, I get no temp warning message which according to the guys in the thread is common, but I can see the wattage jump around and the temp stay basically where I set it. I can tell the difference between temps, <400f is like vaping cool air with a hint of flavor
I'm also used to a warmer vape and I guess I like that. I can not tell ANY difference between Ni200 and Kanthal, but I am anxious to play with Titanium also. I'm still new to the TC game, and I'm sure different resistances will provide different vapes? I have not had the down time I usually have to sit and just BUILD and play. but I'm glad - vaping doesn't pay my bills (though I'm not sure my job is anymore either but that's another thread )My only complaint thus far is the softness of the wire, I know I read about NI200 being soft, but until you get it and use it you don't understand it. I used to use .6mm (I think it was) silver solder from Radio shack because its insanely thin and melts instantly with little heat, this NI200 wire reminds me of that (speaking of which I need to find a new source for my thin silver solder!!
)Wicking spaced fragile coils has been a challenge in the 2 builds I've done just because pulling cotton thru wants to move the coils. Today I had to reposition them with the precision screwdriver after wicking and of course I couldn't tell if the bottom side was still spaced properly or not (in the squape r).
I posted this before (not sure if in this thread or another thread) I'm still not 100% sure about TC... I get it, I understand why people want it - hell I suffer from Shiny-itis big time, new toy, must have - I get that TRUST ME
. And for new vapers who don't understand wicking - I'm sure it will be a god send. FOR ME, I'm not sure if its all its cracked up to be... Even at 500f its a cooler vape than I'm used to, not unsatisfying, just different. I'm able to take much longer lung hits than before with kanthal... I know some people have talked about flavor.. I'm a simple Texas boy, I'm not sure I have taste buds quite that developed or sophisticated to taste such subtle differences? I vape what I like, it either tastes good or bad to me...? I dunno. Like I said earlier, I'm still in the first couple days... time will tell.
it has a dull textured finish - not shiny and smooth like the zipfvde wire...
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