Titanium wire, vaping and safety

[sando7]

the the zipfvde wire is strictly made for surgical implant applications and is cold rolled and polished, the Ringlord wire is for making jewelry and for some medical applications....they are both grade#1 wire the ringlord wire CP 1 is 99.7 pure and the german wire is 99.6....both are good wire to use except the ringlord is easier to work with......i did a bit of research on the German numbers listed for their wire and this is what i discovered. so both are good to use so no worries, this is the reason for the color/texture difference.

the numbers listed for the grade#1 30 ga German wire are "ASTM F-67"

info on this number is : ASTM F67 - 13 Standard Specification for Unalloyed Titanium, for Surgical Implant Applications (UNS R50250, UNS R50400, UNS R50550, UNS R50700)

CP Grade1 30ga Titanium info, the kind Ringlord sells
Unalloyed Commercially Pure (CP) Titanium - Fort Wayne Metals

 

[HolmanGT]

it has a dull textured finish - not shiny and smooth like the zipfvde wire...

Steve,

The reason I asked is because I expected the answer to be "not shiny and smooth".

The finish on the wire is more a product of the extrusion die reaching it's end of life and the lubricant applied (or lack of) during extrusion. It generally is not an indication of wire quality, grade or anything else that may be a cause for concern.

Example: I just received a spool of 26 Ga. Ni200 from Temco and is has a dull mat finish. Sort of shinny but not like I am accustom to seeing with Ni200. It also appears to the eye to not be smooth but it is definitely not anything you can feel by running it thru your fingers.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Steve,

The reason I asked is because I expected the answer to be "not shiny and smooth".

The finish on the wire is more a product of the extrusion die reaching it's end of life and the lubricant applied (or lack of) during extrusion. It generally is not an indication of wire quality, grade or anything else that may be a cause for concern.

Example: I just received a spool of 26 Ga. Ni200 from Temco and is has a dull mat finish. Sort of shinny but not like I am accustom to seeing with Ni200. It also appears to the eye to not be smooth but it is definitely not anything you can feel by running it thru your fingers.

Hi George,

thanx for that. To be honest it is a little confusing I guess. The seconf link in Sando7's previous post alludes to a pickling process which seems to givce rise to the finish I see on the 24g (which is intended for jewellery making but was advertised as gr1). I can say that the builds I have done with the 24 have come out pretty much spot on to the expected resistance from SE so I think its is ok! Your post gives me even more confidence. In any case, I am finding twisted 30 to be fun and will play with twisted builds (double and triple) a bit more I think!
I really think Ti is going to take off but it will be slow because of the bad press from peop[le using cheap alloyed wire and not the real thing. At least that is what I fear...

 

[sando7]

yep i was using the CP1 Grade#1 30 ga, not the 24

 

[HolmanGT]

Hi George,

thanx for that. To be honest it is a little confusing I guess. The seconf link in Sando7's previous post alludes to a pickling process which seems to givce rise to the finish I see on the 24g (which is intended for jewellery making but was advertised as gr1). I can say that the builds I have done with the 24 have come out pretty much spot on to the expected resistance from SE so I think its is ok! Your post gives me even more confidence. In any case, I am finding twisted 30 to be fun and will play with twisted builds (double and triple) a bit more I think!
I really think Ti is going to take off but it will be slow because of the bad press from peop[le using cheap alloyed wire and not the real thing. At least that is what I fear...

By the way Steve I am sure you know that the pickling process is just an acid bath cleaning to eliminate non organic impurities. So I don't know how typical that process would be for a metal that is already in the 99.6% pure form to start with. The pickling can leave some additional oxides on the surface of the metal. I browsed around a bit and didn't notice any hazardous concerns caused by Pickling but if you are the least bit concerned just draw a foot or two several times thru a Brillo-Pad (preferably the ones with the built in soap) making sure to rotate the wire to clean all 360 degrees of the wire surface. Then just rinse with tap water and pull thru a paper towel to dry it. The pickling process oxide layer is very thin in the molecule range so after you clean it you can be very confident that the wire is clean and safe to use.

The process I suggest may seem like a bit of overkill and probably is. However if for no other reason than you can be darn sure your wire will be free of the lube soap they use during the extrusion process. By the way I have never seen wire of any kind advertised as having been cleaned after the manufacturing (extrusion) process. You know how it is even if you buy a high quality Atty and don't wash it your changes of the first vape tasting like machine cutting oil it pretty good. "Been there done that" - yuk!

PS - Tony, sent me some of his German Titanium 28 Ga. wire and when he sent it he coiled it and placed it in some folded over white printer paper. Well from the trip from Portugal to the Desert that God forgot here in Utah the wire left black smudges on the paper. Now remember this is the German ultra pure stuff and I am 100% confident it is as pure as they say HOWEVER no one said they washed and cleaned the surface.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

By the way Steve I am sure you know that the pickling process is just an acid bath cleaning to eliminate non organic impurities. So I don't know how typical that process would be for a metal that is already in the 99.6% pure form to start with. The pickling can leave some additional oxides on the surface of the metal. I browsed around a bit and didn't notice any hazardous concerns caused by Pickling but if you are the least bit concerned just draw a foot or two several times thru a Brillo-Pad (preferably the ones with the built in soap) making sure to rotate the wire to clean all 360 degrees of the wire surface. Then just rinse with tap water and pull thru a paper towel to dry it. The pickling process oxide layer is very thin in the molecule range so after you clean it you can be very confident that the wire is clean and safe to use.

The process I suggest may seem like a bit of overkill and probably is. However if for no other reason than you can be darn sure your wire will be free of the lube soap they use during the extrusion process. By the way I have never seen wire of any kind advertised as having been cleaned after the manufacturing (extrusion) process. You know how it is even if you buy a high quality Atty and don't wash it your changes of the first vape tasting like machine cutting oil it pretty good. "Been there done that" - yuk!

PS - Tony, sent me some of his German Titanium 28 Ga. wire and when he sent it he coiled it and placed it in some folded over white printer paper. Well from the trip from Portugal to the Desert that God forgot here in Utah the wire left black smudges on the paper. Now remember this is the German ultra pure stuff and I am 100% confident it is as pure as they say HOWEVER no one said they washed and cleaned the surface.

all sounds sensible. Maybe its not pickled but i am goind to have a good look at it and I'llpost what `i find.

As for the german stuff, i have exactly the same wire as Tony sent and it is very dirty with some kind of grease or oil.

 

[HolmanGT]

all sounds sensible. Maybe its not pickled but i am goind to have a good look at it and I'llpost what `i find.

As for the german stuff, i have exactly the same wire as Tony sent and it is very dirty with some kind of grease or oil.

The only thing I can think of on the Tony/German wire is the stuff the call "Soap" some kind of lubricant they use to extrude the stuff to the desired size.

No wonder it let the black marks on the paper he packed it in. To me the wire didn't look all that bad and even though I noticed the marks on the paper I just went ahead and used it as it came. No cleaning or Brillo-Pads just coil it and vape it. So this may be my last transmission depending on how long the toxins on the wire take to do their job.

 

[tchavei]

Lol. It's graphite (pencil) which they use as dry lube when extruding. You can check with a eraser on a smudge.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[HolmanGT]

Lol. It's graphite (pencil) which they use as dry lube when extruding. You can check with a eraser on a smudge.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Well I was going to say it looked like pencil lead but I thought that was too simple of an answer. Duh!

 

[tchavei]

Just wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol. 4 passages and it's whistle clean

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[d4gger]

I've gotta say generally metal products should come from the manufacturer with a touch of whatever lubricant they used. The product may sit in storage for years, and most products are not terribly resistant to corrosion.

 

[HolmanGT]

I've gotta say generally metal products should come from the manufacturer with a touch of whatever lubricant they used. The product may sit in storage for years, and most products are not terribly resistant to corrosion.

Just wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol. 4 passages and it's whistle clean

Regards
Tony

"I love the taste of Graphite and Cosmoline in the morning"... "It tastes like Victory" (Apocalypse Now - 1979)

 

[BNEAT]

"I love the taste of Graphite and Cosmoline in the morning"... "It tastes like Victory" (Apocalypse Now - 1979)

OK George, I think we both spend too much time on here: I'm sure I remember you using that quote before, but with something else inserted for "Napalm"

 

[tchavei]

Quick question guys.

I have a mutation x on which I did two titanium builds (single coil) using the through holes without hassle. Yesterday however I decided to make a dual-coil and it was a tightening nightmare. First two coils I made, were snipped at the legs as soon as I tightened down the screws. I sanded the screw ends round and chamfered a bit the through holes but no improvement. I tried several pieces of titanium (28g) and even kanthal but the damm screws kept cutting the wire in half.

In the end I was tired so I decided to just tighten down the legs under the screw heads which worked ok. It does look horrible though.

I would like to rebuild that atty properly but I have no idea how to prevent the screw cutting off the leg.

I already spoke to Holman about this and he had a great idea using tube crimps (silver). I didn't had time to go to the store today so I would like to know if there is an alternate method for securing the legs.

Thx

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[HolmanGT]

OK George, I think we both spend too much time on here: I'm sure I remember you using that quote before, but with something else inserted for "Napalm"

BNEAT,

Yeah I don't know how I spend so much time on here my life is so absolutely full... I have been thinking of getting a scheduling secretary.

As far as the "Napalm" quote I do tend to abuse it. But it is one of my favorites. During that era I was a US Sailor and a Surfer and my best Bud was a River Gunboat Crewman so it just kinds of smacks of my mentality at the time; if you can't shoot it, bomb it or surf it what possible usefulness could it have.

Yes I know that I left one item out but this is after all a family channel. "I'll get my head right Boss just don't hurt me anymore".

 

[HolmanGT]

Quick question guys.

I have a mutation x on which I did two titanium builds (single coil) using the through holes without hassle. Yesterday however I decided to make a dual-coil and it was a tightening nightmare. First two coils I made, were snipped at the legs as soon as I tightened down the screws. I sanded the screw ends round and chamfered a bit the through holes but no improvement. I tried several pieces of titanium (28g) and even kanthal but the damm screws kept cutting the wire in half.

In the end I was tired so I decided to just tighten down the legs under the screw heads which worked ok. It does look horrible though.

I would like to rebuild that atty properly but I have no idea how to prevent the screw cutting off the leg.

I already spoke to Holman about this and he had a great idea using tube crimps (silver). I didn't had time to go to the store today so I would like to know if there is an alternate method for securing the legs.

Thx

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Tony, I now this requires the "Infamous Vape Mail" syndrome but it is the best I could do. By the way that have tons of them and several are just silver plated copper (non toxic) and Aluminum (non toxic). Also the ones for fishing you may be able to find in a local fishing equipment store considering that most of your country is bordered by the sea.

eBay links below:

Fishing Crimps

Jewelry Crimps

 

[d4gger]

tchavei, usually that problem comes of sharp edges. You could lightly sand the screw tips and maybe the post holes and that might fix it.

 

[tchavei]

Tony, I now this requires the "Infamous Vape Mail" syndrome but it is the best I could do. By the way that have tons of them and several are just silver plated copper (non toxic) and Aluminum (non toxic). Also the ones for fishing you may be able to find in a local fishing equipment store considering that most of your country is bordered by the sea.

eBay links below:

Fishing Crimps

Jewelry Crimps

Yeah, we have certainly those crimps. In fact, I'm 100% sure I have a full box of them (for prepping multi strand wire without soldering... A guy gave them to me years ago and I never used them)

Only problem... Since I moved, I have no idea where I put that stuff. I have a garage full of boxes to the ceiling and I don't know where half of my stuff is

Easier to go out and buy.

tchavei, usually that problem comes of sharp edges. You could lightly sand the screw tips and maybe the post holes and that might fix it.

Unfortunately, I already did that and no luck. I do have A2 steel hex screws (no head) which are machined rounded on the bottom that I haven't tried yet. Maybe those will work. I was really surprised to see my titanium wire snapping in half during tightening.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[druckle]

Quick question guys.

I have a mutation x on which I did two titanium builds (single coil) using the through holes without hassle. Yesterday however I decided to make a dual-coil and it was a tightening nightmare. First two coils I made, were snipped at the legs as soon as I tightened down the screws. I sanded the screw ends round and chamfered a bit the through holes but no improvement. I tried several pieces of titanium (28g) and even kanthal but the damm screws kept cutting the wire in half.

In the end I was tired so I decided to just tighten down the legs under the screw heads which worked ok. It does look horrible though.

I would like to rebuild that atty properly but I have no idea how to prevent the screw cutting off the leg.

I already spoke to Holman about this and he had a great idea using tube crimps (silver). I didn't had time to go to the store today so I would like to know if there is an alternate method for securing the legs.

Thx

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Is the hole in the post large enough so that you can fold over and double the titanium wire? I've done that with Ni200 and it has solved the problem for me.

 

[tchavei]

Is the hole in the post large enough so that you can fold over and double the titanium wire? I've done that with Ni200 and it has solved the problem for me.

It cuts double wire too

Really weird. It was a non issue last week...

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.