Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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soulseek

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the SV wire is significantly less springy that the CW. I got the 26g and it is very good but, as you say, expensive!

I just received one of my stealthvape orders (the one with the DNA200 is on its way :D ) and I agree. The sv Ti is by far the best, barely springy and very clean. :thumbs:
 

Sptz

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I just got my Ti from StealthVape as well. I have a couple of questions.

What's the best way to go about it on a DNA40? I might just have to push the Temperature up a bit compared to Ni200 right?

And in terms of maintenance, how do you go about when you need to change wicks? With Ni200, since you can't dry burn ever at all, I just brush it with an old toothbrush and what not and try to manually clean it as much as I can.
 

tchavei

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I just got my Ti from StealthVape as well. I have a couple of questions.

What's the best way to go about it on a DNA40? I might just have to push the Temperature up a bit compared to Ni200 right?

And in terms of maintenance, how do you go about when you need to change wicks? With Ni200, since you can't dry burn ever at all, I just brush it with an old toothbrush and what not and try to manually clean it as much as I can.
You have to go lower on temperature. About 80-100F for start. :)

Regards
Tony

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TheBloke

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I just got my Ti from StealthVape as well. I have a couple of questions.

What's the best way to go about it on a DNA40? I might just have to push the Temperature up a bit compared to Ni200 right?

Refer to this chart for accurate adjustments (though the rule of thumb Tony gave will give a good enough vape):




And in terms of maintenance, how do you go about when you need to change wicks? With Ni200, since you can't dry burn ever at all, I just brush it with an old toothbrush and what not and try to manually clean it as much as I can.

Same as Ni200 - you can't dry burn it, so you just have to clean it as best as you can. Like you I use a toothbrush, which I soak in alcohol (IPA).

If you want a wire that does TC like Titanium but can be dry-burned/cleaned like Kanthal, consider Resistherm. Check my "Beyond Ni200" thread for lots more details on that. It's expensive, about twice the cost of Stealth vape Titanium, but that might change in the future if demand grows. It's currently only available as 29G, so it's best twisted. (Or it can be bought vastly cheaper, and in different gauges, using its generic name of Alloy 120: but only in huge quantities - like hundreds of meters - from a site like ResistanceWire.com)
 

shatteredsoul76

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    I have previously tried nickel and it taste funny no matter what I have tried, the past few months Ive went back and only used kanthal.Im at it again and need a little guidance, I placed an order for some 26ga titanium wire to try on my VS rDNA40. I basically need to know the ins and outs of using Ti, I know about the temp difference between nickel but should I clean it with rubbing alcohol before using? Any other tips or tricks?

    I plan on using it with kayfun V4s as well as subtank mini RBA and only in a simple spaced single coil with rayon. Thanks for any and all help,sorry but couldnt read all 105 pages,too confusing.
     

    druckle

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    I have previously tried nickel and it taste funny no matter what I have tried, the past few months Ive went back and only used kanthal.Im at it again and need a little guidance, I placed an order for some 26ga titanium wire to try on my VS rDNA40. I basically need to know the ins and outs of using Ti, I know about the temp difference between nickel but should I clean it with rubbing alcohol before using? Any other tips or tricks?

    I plan on using it with kayfun V4s as well as subtank mini RBA and only in a simple spaced single coil with rayon. Thanks for any and all help,sorry but couldnt read all 105 pages,too confusing.
    My advice would be to clean ANY wire even if others say the wire comes in a totally clean condition. I rinse with detergent and alcohol wipe always.

    Duane
     

    Madnapali

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    I don't go as far as detergent, but always do wipe with IPA (either little swabs purchased pre-soaked with IPA, or else just spraying my own IPA from a bottle onto paper towel.)
    I'm not sure IPA has a high enough alcohol content to clean anything. Damn good to drink on a hot summer day, though.

    /s
     

    h00ligan

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    Has anyone compared stealthvape to unkamen supplies to wire? I'm guessing no given USA vs U.K. Maybe I'll grab some when I go back over to see my family.

    Also. Where can I find some factual data on titanium wire , oxidization, etc? Is there a resource with singular authority for vaping? I've read a lot of concern. And then a lot of eh it's fine..but all opinions where I'd rather read the data


    Right now there's a lot of confusion about usage , cleaning, temp tolerances, grades, etc. this thread is huge.

    Also. I would think white vinegar would clean well too. Then rinsed with hot water. I've been looking to switch to Ti due to finding flavor funky with nickel, a few manufacturers
     
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    alee132

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    So just got in my TI wire, got both 24 and 26g from stealthvapes. As per usual they also threw in a roll of 32g Kanthal for free! :) Good for making clapton's. Anyways, I have done ton's of Kanthal builds, ni200 builds, etc. I own a sx mini m and a dna200 mod I build and a dna40. But this is going to be really only for the dna200 since it's all I have been using since I got it and cannot imagine using the other's at this point. It maybe time to sell off all my other mods to make room for more dna200's I think.

    Point is, I need to know if it's best to do spaced builds with ti wire or if I can get away with contact coils with it as if so I would much rather do it as it makes it easier to fit coils in smaller decks obviously has been an issue somewhat with the ni200 but with addition of dna200 a little less so as it can go lower.
     

    tchavei

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    I use 96% isopropyl alcohol to clean any wire before building a coil.

    Regarding factual data regarding ti... You can read a few books about Titanium. You can read the study that lifted concerns about nano sized particles and you can read some input given by people that worked with Ti all their life and are PhDs in the field (Duane for example).

    If you're looking for concrete vaping oriented studies that incorporate the use of titanium as the resistance, there aren't any yet as far as I know so it will be always a leap of faith... Just like with nichrome and kanthal.

    Regards
    Tony

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    tchavei

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    Has anyone compared stealthvape to unkamen supplies to wire? I'm guessing no given USA vs U.K. Maybe I'll grab some when I go back over to see my family.

    Also. Where can I find some factual data on titanium wire , oxidization, etc? Is there a resource with singular authority for vaping? I've read a lot of concern. And then a lot of eh it's fine..but all opinions where I'd rather read the data


    Right now there's a lot of confusion about usage , cleaning, temp tolerances, grades, etc. this thread is huge.

    Also. I would think white vinegar would clean well too. Then rinsed with hot water. I've been looking to switch to Ti due to finding flavor funky with nickel, a few manufacturers
    Duane has both. I'm sure he will chime in here soon to give a comparison.

    Regards
    Tony

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    tchavei

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    So just got in my TI wire, got both 24 and 26g from stealthvapes. As per usual they also threw in a roll of 32g Kanthal for free! :) Good for making clapton's. Anyways, I have done ton's of Kanthal builds, ni200 builds, etc. I own a sx mini m and a dna200 mod I build and a dna40. But this is going to be really only for the dna200 since it's all I have been using since I got it and cannot imagine using the other's at this point. It maybe time to sell off all my other mods to make room for more dna200's I think.

    Point is, I need to know if it's best to do spaced builds with ti wire or if I can get away with contact coils with it as if so I would much rather do it as it makes it easier to fit coils in smaller decks obviously has been an issue somewhat with the ni200 but with addition of dna200 a little less so as it can go lower.
    Contact coils do work if you torch the wire first. Be careful as the color of the wire will change. It will start by going gold, then blue, purple and suddently grayish dull. Avoid going over blue. You certainly don't want the grey dull as it is a thick TiO2 layer that can flake off.

    Regards
    Tony

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    TheBloke

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    Contact coils do work if you torch the wire first. Be careful as the color of the wire will change. It will start by going gold, then blue, purple and suddently grayish dull. Avoid going over blue. You certainly don't want the grey dull as it is a thick TiO2 layer that can flake off.

    You still find you need to torch to create contact coils even using SV wire, which is (I'm told) barely springy at all?

    I had thought the reason to torch was just to get it to conform to a contact shape? With my CW wire, I can get it pretty much contact without torching, and apparently SV wire is even less springy than that? That said, I haven't actually tried the resulting contact coils, as I tend to go for minimally spaced these days. But they did seem to hold their shape when I tested it after first getting the wire.
     

    tchavei

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    You still find you need to torch to create contact coils even using SV wire, which is (I'm told) barely springy at all?

    I had thought the reason to torch was just to get it to conform to a contact shape? With my CW wire, I can get it pretty much contact without torching, and apparently SV wire is even less springy than that? That said, I haven't actually tried the resulting contact coils, as I tend to go for minimally spaced these days. But they did seem to hold their shape when I tested it after first getting the wire.
    I don't use contact coils anymore but it seemed logical doing it to create an oxide layer and avoid shorting across the coil.

    Nowadays I don't torch Ti anymore because, as you noted, I can make coils easier with sv Ti and don't use contact coils.

    Regards
    Tony

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    h00ligan

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    I bought rio grande 24 gauge. It has no spring whatsoever. If your buikd can handle the gauge it's incredibly easy to wrap spaced.

    I'm still a little lost on the whole don't dry burn due to oxides vs making blue coils in this thread.

    With the 24 and 26 gauge I have neither changes color at vape able temps without a dry burn. The 26 gauge from ukamen is very springy and shiny. The 24 gauge is matte and like wrapping liquid.

    On a six wrap 3mm coil the 24 gauge from rio grande went from .16 to .18 registering on a DNA 200 chip after pulsing.

    I don't know what info may be helpful about the wire I bought so I figure I'd just leave some observations.
     
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    tchavei

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    As promised:


    Everything starts with a clean atty

    88e47b73f2d39d235e24a068bf8be0ca.jpg


    Next we get our wire

    8c8bd1cf4b3be448d43a8bce653efae0.jpg


    Which we use to make a 7 wrap, 3mm id spaced coil (0.24 Ohms)

    caa83ee7fca0cc84ca33a2ab406ca46b.jpg


    We slap it on our cleaned atty making sure the coil doesn't touch any part of it except the post screws (it's huge btw)

    4aa3c1c36460eb5e1c64065d28089021.jpg


    263ca21a7c7f2c6bcb0b9fd31615117e.jpg


    Then we wick it with some rayon

    8c652ee4587e63dc18f05d9aab664410.jpg


    And take a final macro shot before assembling the atty

    cfdf33324a7d1f981c4ed82fc8a88dd4.jpg


    It vapes great btw. Requires about 30% more wattage than the 0.4mm Ti wire used previously.

    Regards
    Tony

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    druckle

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    I've used both Unkamen and Stealth Vape wire and the major difference is that some of the Unkamen wire (if not all) is acid etched for cleaning. The acid etching leaves the surface slightly rough on a micro scale and somewhat more grey in color. The Stealth Vape wire is more "polished" / silvery in color and more or less smooth on a micro scale.

    The only difference I'm seeing between the two wires is that the deposits that form during vaping are a bit easier to remove from the Stealth Vape wire. Neither of their coils are difficult to clean but my opinion is that the Stealth Vape wire is a bit easier. Rio Grande also has a smooth annealed 24 gauge wire in the U.S. and is essentially identical to the Stealth Vape wire except that it is considerably softer

    Duane
     
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