Titanium wire
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At the moment I'm vaping in temp control with a Kangxin mini and a Tugboat v2 clone rda. The build is 28 guage titanium, 3.0mm inside diameter and about 12 wraps spaced, 1.0 ohm, 390 degrees (480 actual I presume), 20 max watts. 1.0 ohma in temp control is the highest the Kangxin will go according to the specs. I got lucky with the build and nailed it. What I'm after is battery efficiency similar to what I got with Kanthal. So far so good.
When I vape kanthal (rarely these days) I built 1.5 ohm coils and fired them at 20 watts. An iStick 50 watt would fire that for days. That kind of endurance spoiled me. I want the same from temp control.
When I vape kanthal (rarely these days) I built 1.5 ohm coils and fired them at 20 watts. An iStick 50 watt would fire that for days. That kind of endurance spoiled me. I want the same from temp control.
Istick TC40W and KS RTA. 26 gauge titanium, 2.5mm ID coil, 8 wraps. Comes out to 0.25 ohm. I vape it at 320 F setting, with a 40 watt fire level. It's a flavor machine!
There is nothing special about the wire. I got it on fasttech.com. My mod reads the coil at 1.0 ohm in TC mode and the steam engine calculators confirm the ohms based on the wire and wraps. The wire wizard calculator will tell you that when that 1 ohm Ti coil is heated to 480 degrees it's creating 2 ohms of resistance. That might mean my Ti builds are more energy efficient than my 1.5 ohm kanthal builds or at least about the same. If I keep max watts low (20w) and ohms high I can use 3,000 mah batteries instead of 2500 mah batteries, another bonus. Using higher capacity batteries may be why Evolve capped their first TC chip at 40 watts.
Recently I watched some youtube videos of vape batteries deliberately vented to show what happens. I'm impressed. Don't be stupid with power. Use what's needed, not more.
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I'm using 26ga spider silk on three setups.
1. 5-6 wraps 2.4mm ID @ .2-.3 in a Kanger STM updated RBA @3-40watts @350-400f.
2. 8-10 spaced wraps 2.4 ID in a velocity gets me .15-.2. 65-80watts/joules 450-550f.
3. I have a Crown with RBA built same as the STM in #1. I'll run that at higher wattage with more airflow.
I love the stuff, for me it's like nickel, kanthan and Gplat/SS316 all combined with their best attributes. I wick with KGD or Rayon depending on the build. Flavor is always there clouds are 1st class and the builds last much longer. I'm waiting for Spider Silk to release their 24ga as that would be the sweet spot me, it would be much easier to re wick especially the spaces coils and get that rayon in there thicker.
1. 5-6 wraps 2.4mm ID @ .2-.3 in a Kanger STM updated RBA @3-40watts @350-400f.
2. 8-10 spaced wraps 2.4 ID in a velocity gets me .15-.2. 65-80watts/joules 450-550f.
3. I have a Crown with RBA built same as the STM in #1. I'll run that at higher wattage with more airflow.
I love the stuff, for me it's like nickel, kanthan and Gplat/SS316 all combined with their best attributes. I wick with KGD or Rayon depending on the build. Flavor is always there clouds are 1st class and the builds last much longer. I'm waiting for Spider Silk to release their 24ga as that would be the sweet spot me, it would be much easier to re wick especially the spaces coils and get that rayon in there thicker.
You should only use Grade 1 Commercially Pure Titanium. 24 and 26 gauge is what most people run (26ga for single coils). I bought mine from here. There are a few other places that carry it too, like here.
It sells all over now as it's becoming more popular I picked up a few meters do £4 ebay
I would not vape anodized wire. Whatever they use to make the oxide change color is IMO very unlikely to be as safe as not having it there
I like Ti for TC setups. It's harder than Ni so it's easier to clamp the wire down without breaking it and still get a good connection. I have not built for a subtank, but I have for a couple of other tanks and a couple of RDAs.
I use the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator to design my setups with. Here's an example of a dual coil 28 gauge Ti build at 0.2 ohms on 3mm pins I built for a Mutation X. It vapes well at between 30-50 watts depending on your vape preferences.
I'm in Canada so shipping cost is a significant factor as opposed to shipping from/to the US. I bought Ti and Ni wire from www.zivipf.com in Germany. They sell 80 feet of 28 gauge grade 1 Ti for $9.90 EUR. That worked well for me and might be a good option for you too since you're in the UK, but I would wait a bit and see what others suggest before buying from them.
Hope that helps.
I agree... I had to pick up some anodized parts from a company and the guys who were placing new parts on the racks were wearing full protective gear ( suits and respirators) by the tanks of "fluid" the parts were to be processed in.... dont know if the tank was an acid wash area or the actual anodizing tank.... the rack did have a electrical cable attached to it tho...I would not vape anodized wire. Whatever they use to make the oxide change color is IMO very unlikely to be as safe as not having it there
If I were to build a TI build today in a subtank 26g what would you recommend? Can you pulse the wire and pinch it like kanthal? TC is usually around 0.1/0.15ohms
I have a 26ga TI build in my STM right now. 2.4-2.5 ID, 5/6 spaces wraps reading .25ohms wicked with KGD.
If you do a contact coil yes, you can pinch it. Just be sure to go to wattage mode and turn it way down. Slowly pulse, (you don't want it glow like kanthal, just really quick fires) the wire will start to turn blue, yellow- don't go past that as it will turn white and form that powder layer- not good stuff to vape. I like the spaced coils because they wick easier and don't gunk as fast, plus you just need to strum them to get them glowing even and inside to out. A bit harder to re wick without deforming coil, just have to take extra care when pulling wick out.
It's on an istick 40tc @ 40 watts with the temp set to 370f. The istick doesn't have an official TI mode so the temp is set about 100-120 degrees lower than it would be on a TI supported device. It vapes real nice though, warm good clouds and excellent flavor no dry hits or wicking issues. When I rewick my STM, and Crown later this evening I'll take some pics.
Good stuff, I heard TI needed less power but it's funny how my mod allows 50j for NI and 120j for TI lol
I will give a spaced 5/6 wrap build a go tonight, hopefully I get it right, love playing about with wire lol
From my playing with TI it needs more power. My dual 9 wrap in the velocity won't perform until about 55j. This is mainly temp mode though, in wattage mode it doesn't take much to get it popping. Strange, but that's been my experience.
Wattage mode will be unsafe yes?
I have a dual 7 wrap 26g in billow and your right I need around 60j for it to be on par with my NI builds
It won't really get hot enough with a wet wick to glow or oxidize. It actually says right on spider silk container/or their website that it's okay for regulated and unregulated devices. Just don't let it glow too long.
I haven't had any problems with TI thus far. I will say I found TI to be kind of sporadic and aggressive in wattage mode. It's really picky about power, in power mode a couples watts too much and it's snapping and popping juice, too little and it won't perform. In tc too little power and it won't produce, too much power and it ramps up and goes to pulsing almost instantly to control temp. Really have to dial it in.
I'm trying to find the sweet spot with it in the Crown now. STM I have dialed in, have it dialed in the velocity with multiple builds and of course such flexible options for airflow.
In my velocity right now I have a 6/7 wrap of twisted 26ga kanthal and TI, it's amazing but a real juice hog. Just experimenting.
I actually ordered some 24ga TI from Sweetspot Vapors, I think that will work better in the crown RBA, 26 just doesn't get warm enough with all that airflow. Will also be much easier to wick and clean.
Long post, my bad, I got carried away.
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