@lil_buddy , set your coil like this, if you haven't alreay tried it. This is a Origen little deck btw.
Oh, I see what you got! The air hole should line up with the coil, I would start with 30g SS wire, 2mm ID, 8 wraps would put you at about 1 ohm, 2.5 mm ID would bring resistance up to 1.2 or so. Same parameters with Kanthal would be 2.0 ohms and 2.4 +/_ respectively. Personally, I prefer SS wire. You'll probably have to tinker a bit with coil location, I'd start with the coil low, close to the deck. The air should hit the upper part of the coil, the wick tails should be short and allow for good wicking.This is what the Igo-l deck looks like. The hole is actually too tiny I guess and it does not line up over the coil at all. I was thinking about maybe adding another hole or making the current hole bigger - either way I'm not sure what a good way of doing that is.![]()
The hole is so low, it is right over the edge of the deck but the slots where the coil gets held on are like pretty high above thatwhen I used to use thee ole Igo-L, I was stunned by "if you move the hole just a mm away from center of coil" how harsh it became... !
I always made sure I kept it as close AND centerd over the coil...
View attachment 703519
The deck looks very much like that on the VA Cyclone. You have to mount the coil close to the deck and the air would hit the coil's center .The hole is so low, it is right over the edge of the deck but the slots where the coil gets held on are like pretty high above that
I don't think the hole would be high enough to go over the very bottom of the coil in your pic
The hole is so low, it is right over the edge of the deck but the slots where the coil gets held on are like pretty high above that
I don't think the hole would be high enough to go over the very bottom of the coil in your pic
YAY and kudos to @Katdarling !!! That's a HUGE milestone! I hope you're doing something VERY nice for yourself!!! Way to go, darlin'!![]()
.You rang? Ah, the IGO-L, yup, I love em. Build them with 29 or 30 Ga Kanthal, to 1.4-1.6 ish ohms, 3/32 inch ID. I like the wraps tight together, and locate the coil very low in the deck, so the enlarged air hole sends the incoming air into and over the coil. I pull one of the o-rings and this allows me to spin the cap, while holding a flashlight aimed directly at the air hole, so I can line up the airflow to hit the coil square in the middle. Another way I do this is to hold the light up top aiming down into the attie, and look through the air hole till I can see it is lined up at the center of the coil, this is also the way I check the height of the coil.LOL!!!!!! January, dahlink! But thank you!!!!!! I love and will appreciate every step of the way!
Woah, the igo L! I "drilled" out the hole with a triangle file. But my mentor (who might just drop by here) is @ENAUD -
Yeah, that center post is friction fit in there, you can push it down with some effort and the handle of a small screwdriver, or gently tap it down, then if you wrap some thread around the pin, it will keep it from being seated further up again.Hey Kat. I was going to post a congrats on your profile page. You can unblock me now.
If ever the iGo-L doesn't make contact, unloosen the post screw a little and slightly tap it with a phillips screwdriver and hammer. That's how I got it to work with my MVP2.
Yeah, that center post is friction fit in there, you can push it down with some effort and the handle of a small screwdriver, or gently tap it down, then if you wrap some thread around the pin, it will keep it from being seated further up again.
My switch was just like yours and I'm so glad it was!