Tugboat mech mod firing continually

[Ryan G]

I am not new to mechanical mods by any means and im confinident in my ability to use them, but recently while using my authentic tugboat box mod i encountered some issues. While firing it i took my drag and noticed it was still firing and wouldnt stop. After seeing this my insticts kicked in and I assumed that somehow i had began to vent my batteries. Quickly i took them out and put them a fair distance away and began to assess the situation. After some trial and errors and confusion i concluded that it wasnt my batteries but my mod. So basically while i had the batteries in it was fine but when i pressed the button it fired and wouldnt stop until i took them out. Any help would be great and keep in mine my sauder points were good and there was no damage.

Batteries: 2x hg2
Mod: Authentic Tugboat mech by Flawless
Rda: Sapor by Wotofo

 

[sonicbomb]

As long as your builds amp amp requirements are within the CDR of your battery, then they will not vent, you will just burn out your atomizer.
1. Inspect your atomizer and coils and put on a resistance meter. Is there a short on the deck/coil/510.
2. Strip and check the switch mechanism.
3. Check the mod battery sled and 510 mod for obstructions.

 

[deltas4]

its sounds like the mosfet transistor has failed effectively welding the switch open. switches are only capable of handling small amperage the mosfet compensates for this so you dont get the issue you have now. if it was me i would send it back to the vendor for a replacement or if out of warranty just solder a new switch and mosfet plenty of you tube vids to show you how hope this helps

 

[IMFire3605]

I have to agree with sonicbomb, as long as the load of your atomizer doesn't exceed 20amps Continuous, which is the max continuous on the LG HG2 being in series on the Tugboat Tuglyfe, the batteries will not go into thermal runaway. I'd inspect that the insulator on the rda is not melted down or have any burs of any sort to cause a short. Check and inspect the mod's 510 connection for burs and errant wire and the insulators there are in good order, and if it has one its Mosfet circuit. From the 510/Mosfet follow the wiring down to the battery sled and switch assembly, check all insulation, wrapping, and solder points for possible exposed wire or pieces of solder that could be making contact with the mod body.

My personal opinion it is sounding like it is in the switch though, doesn't do anything until fired initially, so when the button is let go it is not instantly springing back to open the circuit back up. Something can be gumming up the mechanisms inside, not enough throw to make adequate space to open the circuit properly. Strip it down if you can and clean it up, inspect the spring thoroughly, it should have enough force to spring back into shape, if it doesn't or feels weak, replace it with a new one. Myself, I'd be buying a new switch I can maintain and solder it in to replace the faulty switch, though I do have experience soldering in switches and stuff in other electronics.

Mechanicals are simplistic enough to be broken down into respective parts and replaced/fixed relatively easily, though they do take a lot of advanced and pre-advanced knowledge to maintain and use properly and can be dangerous if not handled with respect.

 

[Ryan G]

Well while going through the process of trying to find the issue i actually switched out the rda with another rda whih was the same to see if it was an rda issue (i have two sapors because the paint was chipping on one and they are so cheap i said why not). The problem still occured and i attempted to strip it internally and its proving to be a problem, i was able to unscrew the battery sled but i need very thin plyers to be able to unscrew the switch and everything else from the mob because there isnt much room to move around in there. I do think it is the switch though, possibly the spring to be more specific. Also, all sauder points are good and there are no exposed wires, and another question would be, if its the spring being the issue because it wont go back, then why is it that when i remove the batteries and reinsert them it doesnt start to fire? What i mean is, if it was the spring not working then why does it go back to normal when i remove the batteries and reinsert them? Shouldnt it still be firing if the switch was stuck in fire?

 

[AzPlumber]

Sounds like a bad resistor on the mosfet.

 

[Ryan G]

It makes a horrid burning smell within the box, the only time you smell it is when you open it up. Also the first time it happend it was sitting for a few seconds before i relaized what was happening and when i opened the box there was a thick grey/black smoke that rolled out (hince why i thought it was a venting battery at first)

 

[Ryan G]

Also it heats up the box extremely fast. The batteries get hot if left for a while while it does this but the box is burning hot. Something similar to joule heating on a tube mod but im not sure how that would happen with a box. And i do clean my mod regularly in depth.

 

[IMFire3605]

It makes a horrid burning smell within the box, the only time you smell it is when you open it up. Also the first time it happend it was sitting for a few seconds before i relaized what was happening and when i opened the box there was a thick grey/black smoke that rolled out (hince why i thought it was a venting battery at first)

That would be the Mosfet what that is sounding like there. If you are hearing a slight whine or buzz from the mod then the mosfet is bad if it is continue to fire and you had smoke in the mod case as described. Mosfets are cheap relatively speaking. Locate what model it is and find someone that sells the replacement mosfets. If you know nothing about soldering electronics, find out if any of your friends and relations do to have them remove and install the new mosfet.

 

[BrotherBob]

Welcome and glad you joined.