unregulated mod tesla 2 sub mod
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Hi and welcome,
You would need to have a 510 threaded tank. But most tanks should fit.
What have you been using thus far?
Invest a few minutes on youtube to learn about your device.
cheers
I
You would need to have a 510 threaded tank. But most tanks should fit.
What have you been using thus far?
Invest a few minutes on youtube to learn about your device.
cheers
I
as long as its 510 threads ,. be like putting on a mech Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Do you like the Sapor? Why/Why not.
What features are you looking for in a tank?
Have you seen or heard of any you might be interested in?
Do you have a budget?
Would you like the tank to take pre-made coils (like a nautilus etc.) or do you want to coil it yourself?
What level nic do you use and what is the current set up on the Sapor? ( resistance, no. of coils, wire used, wick material)
Cheers
I
Short answer, yes you can. I use tanks on unregulated mods all the time. Whether or not it will work well, and do what you want it to, is another question. The problem with using any topper on an unregulated mod is the resistance is the only tool you have to change the vape. I personally don't recommend replaceable coil tanks on unregulateds for this reason. You really need to be able to adjust the coil values to tweak them. Of course, you might have a tank with a pre-made coil that happens to be right down your alley. If so, great. Go for it. But for me, all the tanks I use like that-- actually, all of them period-- are RTAs.
I just got one of these and I love mine. It's very small, the battery life is great and there is some built in safety so I don't have to worry too much when I'm on the go - and still enjoy my 'mech mod' experience.
Here's a thread I started with a photo of mine with a derringer on it: (Tesla Two Box Mod - yay or nay? | E-Cigarette Forum
I've mainly been using RDAs on mine but I've run it with a Kayfun as well with no problems at all - but I like to build my own coils so I can dial in my preferred vape experience - that's what I enjoy about unregulated mods.
As Suprtrkr stated this is an unregulated mod so you'll get the most out of it by building your own coils to whatever resistance works best for you and your personal tastes between 4.2 - 3.7 volts - which is where the Tesla Two operates at its best. After that you get the red fire button and I find I need to recharge it within half an hour or my vape starts to die off (for me).
Use the Steam Engine Vape calculator to punch in some numbers (eg 4.2 volts battery charge plus your preferred wattage) and it will give you the coil resistance to aim for. I can't see any reason at all why you can't use whatever tank and coil you want if the coil's resistance delivers the wattage that you like - whether they are coils you buy or coils you make yourself - so if you don't build your own coils that should not be an issue at all. It just comes down to a little bit of math at the beginning.
I like to build my Kayfuns at around 1.2 - 1.5 ohms - but my personal sweet spot for this device is 0.4 - 0.6 ohms with RDAs so far. But that depends largely on the RDA and a little bit on the juice.
The fun of an unregulated mod for me is building my own coils because you get to tweak your vape to exactly how you like it by experimenting with different coil builds and resistances. But I'm a tinkerer, which a drives everyone around me crazy, so I channel it into coil building. That's where an unregulated mod differs from a variable wattage device where you adjust the wattage to tweak your vape rather than the coil itself.
I'm waiting going to pick up a Goblin Mini later today as the tank topper for this - I think it will be a good match.
I hope this helps - if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
PS: Do NOT overtighten whatever topper you put on the spring loaded 510 connecter. Just tighten it until you feel a little resistance and then maybe a hair more. Your atty will sit flush without much effort - you don't need to get it tight - otherwise you'll mess up the spring loaded 510 and you'll have to open it up, unscrew the 510 housing and most likely find the o-ring in the base of the 510 pin has worked its way up the spring and requires repositioning back down into it's place - or so I've heard
Here's a thread I started with a photo of mine with a derringer on it: (Tesla Two Box Mod - yay or nay? | E-Cigarette Forum
I've mainly been using RDAs on mine but I've run it with a Kayfun as well with no problems at all - but I like to build my own coils so I can dial in my preferred vape experience - that's what I enjoy about unregulated mods.
As Suprtrkr stated this is an unregulated mod so you'll get the most out of it by building your own coils to whatever resistance works best for you and your personal tastes between 4.2 - 3.7 volts - which is where the Tesla Two operates at its best. After that you get the red fire button and I find I need to recharge it within half an hour or my vape starts to die off (for me).
Use the Steam Engine Vape calculator to punch in some numbers (eg 4.2 volts battery charge plus your preferred wattage) and it will give you the coil resistance to aim for. I can't see any reason at all why you can't use whatever tank and coil you want if the coil's resistance delivers the wattage that you like - whether they are coils you buy or coils you make yourself - so if you don't build your own coils that should not be an issue at all. It just comes down to a little bit of math at the beginning.
I like to build my Kayfuns at around 1.2 - 1.5 ohms - but my personal sweet spot for this device is 0.4 - 0.6 ohms with RDAs so far. But that depends largely on the RDA and a little bit on the juice.
The fun of an unregulated mod for me is building my own coils because you get to tweak your vape to exactly how you like it by experimenting with different coil builds and resistances. But I'm a tinkerer, which a drives everyone around me crazy, so I channel it into coil building. That's where an unregulated mod differs from a variable wattage device where you adjust the wattage to tweak your vape rather than the coil itself.
I'm waiting going to pick up a Goblin Mini later today as the tank topper for this - I think it will be a good match.
I hope this helps - if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
PS: Do NOT overtighten whatever topper you put on the spring loaded 510 connecter. Just tighten it until you feel a little resistance and then maybe a hair more. Your atty will sit flush without much effort - you don't need to get it tight - otherwise you'll mess up the spring loaded 510 and you'll have to open it up, unscrew the 510 housing and most likely find the o-ring in the base of the 510 pin has worked its way up the spring and requires repositioning back down into it's place - or so I've heard
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