USB Charging question

[Mapultz]

I've amassed so many devices now that I have cords and wall warts all over the damn place. I'm trying to streamline and simplify! But knowing that batteries can be volatile things, I'm scared to use anything but the chargers that came with the devices. Is something like this a bad idea?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQOIXCC?psc=1

 

[ArdDarvis]

there are several things to consider.

first, and most importantly, what are you charging? For example, when you plug in your Innokin MVP, it is charging at whatever the Volts and Amperage are for the charger you plugged it into because the "charger" is just a wire, nothing else normally, powered USB ports are 5volts, .5-2.1amps (big difference)
buuuuuuut.... when you plug in your eGo battery, there is a module in the charger that regulates the Volts and Amps before it gets to the battery- I'm pretty sure it regulates it to 5v .5a
Or are you charging Sony, Samsung, etc, batteries? I like to charge those at .25 amps for safety's sake. (IDK if they even make USB powered chargers for those. NVM)
so, regardless, look at and KNOW what your charging first.

next, is USB hub you are interested going to be able to keep up with charging all your devices at once? (Remember, once charged, the charger is NOT a storage unit- devices should be unplugged upon full charge) The charger you are interested in is rated for 5volts 60watts 12amps, which looks like it will be fine, but I'm not an EE, so, ya know, please don't take my word for it.

It looks like a quality charger, and hopefully someone will give you a definitive "yes" or "no", but for the time being, maybe think about if you even NEED this USB hub at all...

 

[Mapultz]

I have 3 iSticks, an iTaste VV3 and my cell. While I don't *need* this, it would be nice to have.

I very rarely have all 5 things charging at once, but it's not uncommon for me to be charging 2 ecigs and my cell at the same time.

 

[ISGRidge]

From what I've heard, that should be good for anything. I've been thinking about mounting one of those inside an end table. So many devices... so little space on the table

 

[AttyPops]

Like ArdDarvis said...there's TWO parts...
1) The USB "hub' or DC adapter.
2) The charging cable/charger.

If it has a charger cable...there should be writing on the cable somewhere that talks about input and output voltages and amps.
If the device has a built in charger...look at the device and/or check the manual.

It should say something like "INPUT: 5v, 500 ma" (just an example). That's what it needs as an input. The OUTPUT part is what it sends to the battery/device. It can vary by device. So ALWAYS USE THE CHARGER THAT CAME WITH THE DEVICE. Always use the proper charger for the device. Match them up. Label them if you need to. Don't mix em up.

Now, back to the hub. The hub should have specifications where the amperage out is at least as big as the INPUT: noted above. So the hub may output at 5V and 1.5 amps or 1500 ma. If the charger only need 500ma, the hub is more than sufficient to output to the charger. The charger will only "draw" what it needs, but you don't want to starve it.

All standard USB connections are 5 volts. So that's easy. The "wall wart" just converts the input (wall plug or car power or whatever) to 5V. It must source enough current (amps).

What you don't want to ever do is charge an e-cig battery too fast. Don't put a charger on a battery that's designed for a different (particularly bigger) battery and over-amp the battery.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mapultz]

Like ArdDarvis said...there's TWO parts...
1) The USB "hub' or DC adapter.
2) The charging cable/charger.

If it has a charger cable...there should be writing on the cable somewhere that talks about input and output voltages and amps.
If the device has a built in charger...look at the device and/or check the manual.

It should say something like "INPUT: 5v, 500 ma" (just an example). That's what it needs as an input. The OUTPUT part is what it sends to the battery/device. It can vary by device. So ALWAYS USE THE CHARGER THAT CAME WITH THE DEVICE. Always use the proper charger for the device. Match them up. Label them if you need to. Don't mix em up.

Now, back to the hub. The hub should have specifications where the amperage out is at least as big as the INPUT: noted above. So the hub may output at 5V and 1.5 amps or 1500 ma. If the charger only need 500ma, the hub is more than sufficient to output to the charger. The charger will only "draw" what it needs, but you don't want to starve it.

All standard USB connections are 5 volts. So that's easy. The "wall wart" just converts the input (wall plug or car power or whatever) to 5V. It must source enough current (amps).

What you don't want to ever do is charge an e-cig battery too fast. Don't put a charger on a battery that's designed for a different (particularly bigger) battery and over-amp the battery.

Hope this helps.

The iTaste VV3 says they recommend a "high-quality 5V 500mA USB wall charger"

The iSticks just say "1A wall adapter".


Can you dumb down what you wrote? I'm having a brain melt today, apparently, and I'm not following

 

[AttyPops]

The iTaste VV3 says they recommend a "high-quality 5V 500mA USB wall charger"

The iSticks just say "1A wall adapter".


Can you dumb down what you wrote? I'm having a brain melt today, apparently, and I'm not following

The specs on the link you provided say:

MOST POWERFUL USB CHARGER on the market. Delivers an incredible 60W 12A of power through 6 ports, enough to charge 6 iPads at the same time.

so it will supply 12 amps. That's 12000 ma. The most you need per device is the 1a for the I stick (1000 ma). The total you need is 1500 ma. So there's plenty of power available to the devices. You should be OK unless that "smart" hub does something whacky that I can't fathom. Haven't used one to know for sure, but IDK why it would fail.

I don't want to get into hub reviews and personal opinions...but IDK what it's so "smart" about for supplying necessary current at 5 volts. Probably more applicable to phones and i-pads. Just a guess, as I have no specific experience with it. Just use the cable that came with your e-cig ...and use the proper ones for the e-cig device, unless you're 100% sure you know you can use another cable and that that cable is OK.

I've amassed so many devices now that I have cords and wall warts all over the damn place. I'm trying to streamline and simplify! But knowing that batteries can be volatile things, I'm scared to use anything but the chargers that came with the devices. Is something like this a bad idea?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQOIXCC?psc=1

View attachment 411713

 

[ian-field]

there are several things to consider.

first, and most importantly, what are you charging? For example, when you plug in your Innokin MVP, it is charging at whatever the Volts and Amperage are for the charger you plugged it into because the "charger" is just a wire, nothing else...

Sweeping generalisations can be dangerous!!! - the most common variety of USB charging adaptor contains a current limiting resistor, a computer USB port is limited to 500mA anyway but "just a wire" could overwhelm the charge cutoff MOSFET in the battery unit - if that fails short circuit, you'll end up with an overcharged battery and some fairly entertaining end of life performance!

There's also usually a transistor that samples the volt drop across the current limiting resistor to operate the red/green LED charge indicator.

 

[Mapultz]

The specs on the link you provided say:


so it will supply 12 amps. That's 12000 ma. The most you need per device is the 1a for the I stick (1000 ma). The total you need is 1500 ma. So there's plenty of power available to the devices. You should be OK unless that "smart" hub does something whacky that I can't fathom. Haven't used one to know for sure, but IDK why it would fail.

I don't want to get into hub reviews and personal opinions...but IDK what it's so "smart" about for supplying necessary current at 5 volts. Probably more applicable to phones and i-pads. Just a guess, as I have no specific experience with it. Just use the cable that came with your e-cig ...and use the proper ones for the device, unless you're 100% sure you know you can use another cable and that that cable is OK.

Thank you!!

I guess I was confused because I was under the impression that the cables didn't matter - that they were just carrying the power that is supplied to the device. It's the device and the supply (hub/wall wart/etc.) that matter.

 

[AttyPops]

Thank you!!

I guess I was confused because I was under the impression that the cables didn't matter - that they were just carrying the power that is supplied to the device. It's the device and the supply (hub/wall wart/etc.) that matter.

Well, some are standard cables, but see above for cautions. Basically, unless the vendor tells you that you can use a standard cable, get the right cable for the e-cig device. Some "cables" are actually chargers, for example. So keep track of what-goes-with-what.

 

[ArdDarvis]

Sweeping generalisations can be dangerous!!! - the most common variety of USB charging adaptor contains a current limiting resistor, a computer USB port is limited to 500mA anyway but "just a wire" could overwhelm the charge cutoff MOSFET in the battery unit - if that fails short circuit, you'll end up with an overcharged battery and some fairly entertaining end of life performance!

There's also usually a transistor that samples the volt drop across the current limiting resistor to operate the red/green LED charge indicator.

excellent point, and I agree completely. I intentionally over simplified for the sake of understanding, but that's not a good habit to fall into.

 

[dimo]

Hopefully this doesn't get taken the wrong way from anyone.

Long version:
That charger will supply 5V regulated output. Standard for USB connections. It also has 12A capacity to share across 6 ports. There is no mention of a max amp draw per port. That means it potentially has 12A capability on a single port. They advertise it as having the ability to charge 6 ipads at a time. iPads require 2 amp chargers so with 6 of them connected that share the 12A by taking to each. Typical USB chargers are just simple power supplies. They have a volt rating (5V for USB chargers) and an amp rating. There is no limiting built in to them. When you try to draw too much amps, it gets overloaded and the output voltage drops.

As far as devices are concerned (phones, tablets, ecigs), they also have ratings that they like. Any device with built in charging capabilities should be able to connect to any charger that has the same amp capabilities or greater than the device requires. So in the case of an istick, it says 1A charging. That means will take take no more than 1A. So in the case of the above charger, a connected istick will take 1A, leaving 11A left over for other devices to use via the other ports. The output of the charger doesn't matter whether it's 1A or 100A. The device has a built in requirement of 1A, and that's all it'll take. I have verified this with a bench top power supply. My hana has requires 500ma minimum and draws only that. My vaporshark uses 1.85A (vaporshark says 2A charger required).


Short version:
The device limits incoming power and takes only what it needs. If it doesn't, you shouldn't trust or use the built in charger. If the device calls for 1A, your charger at a minimum should supply it. Anything left over is simply not used.

Analogy:
The charger is a water hose. The bigger the charger, the bigger the water hose.
The device is the water valve (water spigot). It controls how much water comes out of the hose. The device only opens the spigot and allows just enough water to get the job done.

 

[r77r7r]

I use one of those chargers, before they got Smart you had to pick which port to use. I got mine so I don't risk messing up my PC using the USB hub I have.

Yeah, I have cords all around the living room and bedrooms what with having multiple tablets, MP3 players and such. I get the 6 foot cords and wallwarts from Amazon. They also have some nice plug-in adapters for outlets that have USB ports.

My next living-room furniture better have USB charging ports integrated, lol. With my Isticks and VV3's I don't have charging times, wherever I sit- I plug it in...

 

[AttyPops]

dimo: Why would anyone take that the wrong way? That's pretty much what we said too. Although IDK if it would supply a full 12A on one port.......

 

[amoret]

What Dimo said. The VVs and the Isticks will regulate the power they receive. And since they are designed for Micro USB connectors, any standard USB to micro USB cable will work fine. I have two (one for my living room end table and one for my headboard) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KY5JA8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which have 1 amp and 2 amp ports.

After a huge and somewhat heated debate on this topic on another thread I started experimenting, and the charge time on my VVs, starting from the same level of charge, was exactly the same on a .5 amp wall wart, a 1 amp port or a 2 amp port. Someone else on the same thread had done an even more detailed and precise comparison with the same results.

With that said, all electronics can fail, so you really shouldn't charge anything, using any power source, unattended.

 

[Mapultz]

ECF is, as usual, very helpful. Thanks everyone!

 

[dimo]

dimo: Why would anyone take that the wrong way? That's pretty much what we said too. Although IDK if it would supply a full 12A on one port.......

I mentioned it because it may go against what others any day and what I've read from past threads on the subject.

I also don't think it will provide 12a to a single port but as same time I didn't read anything saying it limits the ports. Only that it has 12A max output.

My background is in electronics and have been in the industry for 17 years. I know what I say is correct based on previous tests I've conducted. Simply didn't want to offend anyone who has a different opinion.

 

[amoret]

dimo: Why would anyone take that the wrong way? That's pretty much what we said too. Although IDK if it would supply a full 12A on one port.......

Note the bolded part in my post below. I was trying to be super polite when I said somewhat heated.

What Dimo said. The VVs and the Isticks will regulate the power they receive. And since they are designed for Micro USB connectors, any standard USB to micro USB cable will work fine. I have two (one for my living room end table and one for my headboard) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KY5JA8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which have 1 amp and 2 amp ports.

After a huge and somewhat heated debate on this topic on another thread I started experimenting, and the charge time on my VVs, starting from the same level of charge, was exactly the same on a .5 amp wall wart, a 1 amp port or a 2 amp port. Someone else on the same thread had done an even more detailed and precise comparison with the same results.

With that said, all electronics can fail, so you really shouldn't charge anything, using any power source, unattended.

 

[AttyPops]

What Dimo said. The VVs and the Isticks will regulate the power they receive. And since they are designed for Micro USB connectors, any standard USB to micro USB cable will work fine. I have two (one for my living room end table and one for my headboard) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KY5JA8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which have 1 amp and 2 amp ports.

After a huge and somewhat heated debate on this topic on another thread I started experimenting, and the charge time on my VVs, starting from the same level of charge, was exactly the same on a .5 amp wall wart, a 1 amp port or a 2 amp port. Someone else on the same thread had done an even more detailed and precise comparison with the same results.

With that said, all electronics can fail, so you really shouldn't charge anything, using any power source, unattended.

Yeah. It's the charger's resistance that determines the amp draw. Dimo said that too.

Same reason mech-users vary the ohms. The battery can put out a lot of amps, but it's the resistance of the coil that determines the amp draw. (to a point...of safe capability of the battery). And the resistance of the charger circuit that determines the amp draw for the e-cig charger/device.

So not at all surprised that you got the same result. HOWEVER, if the device is able to use higher amps than, say 500ma, then it would be starved on a .5A wall wart (and it would stress the wall wart...such "stress" results probably vary by design of the wall wart transformer). I'd rather have a 2 amp wall wart for all my single-device charge stuff, personally, rather than the .5 amp or 1 amp transformer.

 

[dimo]

Yeah. It's the charger's resistance that determines the amp draw. Dimo said that too.

Same reason mech-users vary the ohms. The battery can put out a lot of amps, but it's the resistance of the coil that determines the amp draw. (to a point...of safe capability of the battery). And the resistance of the charger circuit that determines the amp draw for the e-cig charger/device.

So not at all surprised that you got the same result. HOWEVER, if the device is able to use higher amps than, say 500ma, then it would be starved on a .5A wall wart (and it would stress the wall wart...such "stress" results probably vary by design of the wall wart transformer). I'd rather have a 2 amp wall wart for all my single-device charge stuff, personally, rather than the .5 amp or 1 amp transformer.

You mention stressing the wallwart if it's under powered for what a device needs. You are absolutely correct. Under lab conditions an underpowered charger will start to drop voltage as a result of being overloaded. Good chargers will most likely be fine but will get warm to hot if run that way. Cheap chargers can overheat and catch fire.

With that said hopefully no one is hooking up a device with a 1A or 2A charge requirement to a cheap 0.5A wall charger.