Using a multimeter on atties for the first time - need help

[Vaporologist]

This is the first time ever I've attempted to use a multimeter to measure ohms on my atomizers and I'm not sure I'm using it correctly. I just bought it from Radio Shack and need to figure out if it's defective or if I'm not educated to use it properly.

The multimeter is on the 200 OHM setting. I inserted the positive (red) end inside the battery side hole of the atty and held the negative (black) end against the atty threads. The reading is very inconsistent. First, the numbers are bouncing all over the place and after a few seconds start stabilizing. I've tried using it on 510 LRs and regulars, 901s, 801s. For example, on a 510, it will show 1.9 and a couple of seconds later it will be as high as 2.4 ohms.

Any qualified help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[mamacat]

Have you touched the leads together to see if there is a difference? It should read .0. If it reads .1, .2, etc. then you subtract that from a steady ohm reading.

ETA: For example, if it reads .2 and you test the atty and it reads 1.7 then it is really 1.5 ohms. Hope that helps. I am not technical at all but have got this and testing batteries down on my multi-meter. lol

 

[sanfordf]

Keep the contact points as steady as you can. If you have Parkinsons, you will have a difficult time doing a good measurement. Sliding the tips causes some of those fluctuations. Measure without the cart attached. I usually do this when the atties or cartomizers are new to weed out any DOAs and to check the ohm range. Also handy to see if an atty is really dead after it stops working.

 

[Vaporologist]

Thank you both for your help. I'm starting to think that maybe my unit is not functioning properly. When I touch the two leads together without the atty, numbers are jumping all over the place from 0.02 to 3.4 and really fast. Any thoughts?

 

[boxhead]

Check battery in meter maybe ???
But sounds like funky meter. The 4$ meter from harbor freight has .02 zero reading and jumping readings, but when the batt symbol shows up it starts fultuating #'s and zero reads .08.. Cheep meters, r ok, when you know what to trust, don't trust it for 110 volts house power... Unless u know meters little foils ...

 

[Charged]

In order to measure resistance the meter must supply a small voltage. Inside your meter you will have a battery that does this. Make sure the battery is snug in the holder and making good contact. Also make sure the test leads are inserted well in the meter and making good contact (you may try twising and plugging them in and out a couple times). The battery could be just bad, try replacing it.

 

[volunteer vapor]

Thank you both for your help. I'm starting to think that maybe my unit is not functioning properly. When I touch the two leads together without the atty, numbers are jumping all over the place from 0.02 to 3.4 and really fast. Any thoughts?

Sounds like one of the leads are broken..or about to break

 

[Vaporologist]

The multimeter and the battery are brand new, I bought them about 5-6 hrs ago. I paid $20 for it. Is that considered a cheap meter? Should I purchase something else/better?

Based on what you all wrote and what I have been able to test, I'm suspecting that the problem might be with the unit itself. When on the 2K, 20K, 200K and 2 M setting, the meter reads 0.0 ohm when I connect the two leads. It's only on the 200 setting that it's acting funky and of course that's the one I need to be accurate. Maybe I should just take it back and exchange it if you all think it's a good unit?

 

[boxhead]

Ah yeah leads going wonkey... Yeah did not think of that.
Higher settings are just that, so any broke wire might not show... A real good meter is very costly they let u zero leads. Temp adj. Way too much 4& harbor freight works well... And rs meter's are 10 time better in construction mostly...
Try new good bat try new lead if no joy tell rs to give u diff meter...

 

[Vaporologist]

Well, I guess I'll just go back to RS and see if a new one does the trick. Thanks for your help everyone!

 

[candre23]

I've owned several multimeters over the years, and a few - particularly the cheap ones - had lead issues. For whatever reason, the lead tips had some sort of coating on them that messed with the readings. Scouring them a bit took the coating off and they worked fine after that.

 

[Quick1]

all the above. a $20 RS meter should be just fine for e-cig measuring. The one I use is (I think) a $34 RS meter that they don't sell any more... really slick clamshell design with the lcd and dial in the cover and a coil for the leads in the bottom. closed it's about cigarette pack sized and half as thick with everything inside . My other meter is a $400 Fluke (so I don't blow up my car) but it doesn't fit in a pocket.

 

[boxhead]

is the almost credit card in size except fot thickness....man that was my best pocket meter, somebody took it about 5 years ago. it was a purfect little meter...

i had a fluke, for work for strain gages...i liked that you could zero the leads...and get temp readings from point contact...

 

[Vaporologist]

Just an update: I took the meter back to RS and it was acting funny at the 200 ohm setting and also voltage readings were off by 0.05 V less than what they should be. The new one is working perfectly. Now I actually feel like I know what I'm doing, Thank you all very much for your assistance!

 

[DaveP]

Even my Fluke 87-5 ($150 meter) shows .7 ohms with the leads shorted. I need new leads for it, but you get used to making the adjustment for lead drift.

I like the Northern Tools MAS830L I picked up for home use. It's under $20 and has all the features I need, including a beeper for glance free continuity checks. It comes with a rubber slip on cover for shock protection like the Flukes. It reads .3 on shorted leads. Few meters with non-adjustable zero will actually read zero on resistance settings and it's not a problem. I used Simpson, Fluke, Weston, and several others in 36 years of tech work and they all have their little personalities.