Vamo V5 Owners Lounge

[DavidOck]

I have been using my Vamo 5 now for a few weeks. Its working really well but I have a question.
As far as ohms, should I believe whats etched on the coil itself or what my vamo says?
I have a package of Kanger coils that say they are 2.2 ohms, however my vamo reads 2.5-3.3, the same coil will read 2.5 one hit, then 3.3 the next hit. None of my other coils do this, just this box.
All the other coils I have read what they should, give or take a .1.
Its not a big deal because its vapeing great but, did I just get a dud box of coils?
They do have 2.2 etched into them so they arent just packaged wrong.

Can't say which to believe, but your Vamo is believing what it sees, and regulating according to that...

Factory coils may or may not be as marked, probably depending on who was running the machine, what they did the night before...

But if the value is changing between draws, it suggest a poor connection somewhere. Might be you're attaching it to the Vamo too tightly. While that sounds counter-intuitive, the excess compression can cause problems.

Might be that the head is a bit loose in the base, I've had them get that way just from opening up to refill. That moves the coil up a hair, and can cause connection problems as well as increasing the chances of a leak.

 

[Garrett1234567]

I have a vamo v3 and 2 VTRs, the vamo seems to read my coils the same as the VTRs, but like David said, factory coils don't always match what's printed on them. I'd try another coil and see if you get fluctuations in readings and if you have a local shop, go and see if the have an ohm meter and would test them for you.

 

[curmudgeon1]

Thanks guys, all my other coils read what they say. Just this one package, they must have been made on a friday.
I took two coils apart, one that reads true and one that reads off.
The off one seems to have been wrapped too many times. The good one have six wraps, the high reading one has eight, very tight wraps.
Its time to start building my own.

 

[rangerrobin]

Howdy folks,

Pardon me if this question has already been asked and answered. I didn't read through the whole thread.

A couple weeks ago, I bought a used Vamo 5. Since then, the only tank I can get to work with it, and half-heartedly at that, is a Nautilus?! I've used 1.6 - 2.0 coils and have set it from 8-11 watts, as well as from 3.8-4.3 volts.

My tanks work perfectly on other devices and my Vamo clone that works great.

Suggestions?

 

[jp001]

A couple weeks ago, I bought a used Vamo 5. Since then, the only tank I can get to work with it, and half-heartedly at that, is a Nautilus?! I've used 1.6 - 2.0 coils and have set it from 8-11 watts, as well as from 3.8-4.3 volts.

My tanks work perfectly on other devices and my Vamo clone that works great.

Suggestions?

IMO the worst aspect of the Vamo V5 is the 510 connector, followed by the bottom spring. So, I'm not surprised that you are having problems with some atomizers.
I've had mine short and also not work with my Kayfun.
To fix it I had to raise the positive pin (use an appropriate tool), make a thin washer from a piece of bicycle tube and place it under the head of the pin.
This raised the pin enough so that it now makes contact with all my atomizers.
Let me know how you solve your problem.

 

[b.m.]

Another way to lift the pin and keep it up is to use a #60 o-ring.Put a slit in the o-ring,then lift the pin far enough up that you can push the ring in under it.I had to do this on both of my vamo's and my mvp 2.0.Solved the problem on all 3 of them.

 

[rangerrobin]

IMO the worst aspect of the Vamo V5 is the 510 connector, followed by the bottom spring. So, I'm not surprised that you are having problems with some atomizers.
I've had mine short and also not work with my Kayfun.
To fix it I had to raise the positive pin (use an appropriate tool), make a thin washer from a piece of bicycle tube and place it under the head of the pin.
This raised the pin enough so that it now makes contact with all my atomizers.
Let me know how you solve your problem.

Another way to lift the pin and keep it up is to use a #60 o-ring.Put a slit in the o-ring,then lift the pin far enough up that you can push the ring in under it.I had to do this on both of my vamo's and my mvp 2.0.Solved the problem on all 3 of them.

Since I don't understand the above terminology, I went to a local B&M during my lunch break. Turns out that some tanks do work on it, but only the ones that bring the coli further into the "middle part". See, not savvy.
I don't even know what that part is called. lol I'm just glad it's not broken! Thanks for your advice!

 

[jp001]

Since I don't understand the above terminology, I went to a local B&M during my lunch break. Turns out that some tanks do work on it, but only the ones that bring the coli further into the "middle part". See, not savvy.
I don't even know what that part is called. lol I'm just glad it's not broken! Thanks for your advice!

My advice at this point is that you ask other people. The advice you got seems, in the least, inaccurate.

 

[rangerrobin]

My advice at this point is that you ask other people. The advice you got seems, in the least, inaccurate.

Could you be more specific?

 

[Nick N]

I understand what you are saying. For example, the Mega has a wide flat 510 pin in the center. The Mini Protank 3 (MPT3) has a thin protruding pin. Sometimes the Mega doesnt register correctly but the MPT3 does almost every time. I have "upgraded" (by necessity) the stock Vamo insulator with the Danco #60 rubber washer mentioned in an earlier post.

So basically it has been screwed down too tight or the stock insulator has worn down.
Common problem on the ol' Vamo, as others have mentioned.

 

[DavidOck]

My advice at this point is that you ask other people. The advice you got seems, in the least, inaccurate.

Could you be more specific?

At the least it was incomplete.

I think the part you're referring to is the threaded part at the bottom of the topper, which are the 510 threads if it looks like a very short bolt, or the Ego threads if it looks like the threads on the inside of a nut.

Yes, some toppers have longer 510 threads than others, but they should ALL work on your Vamo. I, too, think the #60 O-ring is what's needed.

 

[rangerrobin]

At the least it was incomplete.

I think the part you're referring to is the threaded part at the bottom of the topper, which are the 510 threads if it looks like a very short bolt, or the Ego threads if it looks like the threads on the inside of a nut.

Yes, some toppers have longer 510 threads than others, but they should ALL work on your Vamo. I, too, think the #60 O-ring is what's needed.

Well, I'm now 2 for 2 with used Vamo's not working properly.
After work, I'll head to a different B&M, since the one I went to yesterday did not really help.

 

[rangerrobin]

UPDATE; I took both Vamos to a different B&M and a guy there gently pulled the center pin out on the Vamos. Now, all my tanks work on them! Thanks for your responses

 

[DavidOck]

Since that did the trick, it does seem like it might be time for the #60 O-ring, to prevent them from being crushed back down.

 

[jp001]

I'm glad you got it figured out.
It's great when something has an happy ending.

 

[rangerrobin]

Since that did the trick, it does seem like it might be time for the #60 O-ring, to prevent them from being crushed back down.

Several of you have mentioned this. Where would I find these and a good "how to install video"?

 

[DavidOck]

In the faucet repair section of any good hardware store.

Try a google search on something like "fix vamo center pin", and "double back" to the ECF posts or vids.

Here's one: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/375871-vamo-ohm-error-fix.html although I'm not sure it links to good vids (or any).

 

[Nick N]

And it can be put on without cutting it. I originally cut a slit in it that made it easy to install but it constantly needed adjustment. But by all means try the slit if you can't get it to go on there.

If you have not done it before you will think that you are going to pop the pin out but be patient and don't gorilla the thing. It is somewhat fragile.

One other thing. If you ask for assistance in locating it be prepared to discuss e-cigarettes.

 

[Andrew LB]

I'm looking at upgrading from my iTaste VV 3.0 because I'd like better battery life and I already have the new 2014 model NiteCore D4 Intelligent charger, as well as a few 18650 batteries that I use in my modded Surefire E2D-LED flashlight. After reading this thread, It looks like this may be the choice for me especially since I want to be able to use my 18650 batteries and to keep the length as short as possible. If i'm not mistaken, the 5-1/2" length of the Vamo V5 is one of the shortest setups that use that battery. Other contenders were the Sigelei Zmax V5 but that dang thing is over 7 inches. I may bite the bullet and go with the Sigelei 20Watt since it's 5-1/4"... but i'd like to avoid spending that much.

And it can be put on without cutting it. I originally cut a slit in it that made it easy to install but it constantly needed adjustment. But by all means try the slit if you can't get it to go on there.

If you have not done it before you will think that you are going to pop the pin out but be patient and don't gorilla the thing. It is somewhat fragile.

One other thing. If you ask for assistance in locating it be prepared to discuss e-cigarettes.

If it's anything like the connector problem that was frequent on the eGo-T batteries, I found out that there was enough slack in the wire going to the center pin to pull the pin completely out, desolder the wire, slide in an uncut rubber gasket, resolder the pin, and press it back down into the connection. I'm not sure how much slack these Vamos have, perhaps someone has experience with taking one apart that can help.

 

[specter9mm]

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