Hi there,
I haven't been around for a while. All is great. Rebuilding coils with great success wrapping 9/8 around a 5/64" tooth pick with Kanthal A1 30GA and wicking with cotton from cotton balls.
2 Vamo V5 with Protank 2, and 2 Vision Spinner II with mini protank 2.
About 4 days ago my second Vamo V5, the newer of the 2, started reading the coil ohms higher than what they actually are. A general example would be seeing a 2.1 as a 4.8.
Even so, vaping performance was still good.
The next step in the failure process is battery life.
Yesterday it went through a fairly new(31 charge cycles) AW IMR 18650 2000mAh in less than a day.
My average is more than 3 days before a charge, since I usually have 2 Vamos and 1 Spinner II running on my desk at all times. Even so, vaping performance still good.
Today I woke up and had a few good hits on it and the battery was dead again.
I put a freshly charged one in and it lasted about 5 minutes and it was getting pretty hot before it drained the battery.
Generally, I've been using 2.1 to .23 coils with a voltage setting of 3.4 to 3.7 and getting great results,
so I've not been pushing it hard.
It's a floating pin version and I keep the top fairly clean around the pin, soaking up the minor drippage with q-tips.
-----
I'd love to save it.
I can solder, but can't seem to find a way to get the board out of this, short of a dremel with a cutting wheel.
The joint right below the fire button unscrews and I can see inside. I thought of blasting it with some Deoxit DN-5 but that's gonna make a mess. ( I wish the original "Blue Shower" was still available ... the one that left absolutely no lube or residue behind )
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Thanks in advance for any comments or discussion.
Steve
UPDATE:
Pushed and tugged on the fire pin with a set of stats and also cleaned around the pin.
Pin is moving as it should.
Checked it with a multi meter.
Fire pin to the pin that touches the positive side of the battery was reading as connected and current flowing wide open. That doesn't seem right.
I shot some compressed air into it where I could see the board.
Now that pin to pin connection is reading zero on the multi meter, but the Vamo won't even boot up.
I'd guess a cold solder joint somewhere. I wish I could figure out how to get the board out of it.
P.S. The reason I lke the Vamo is that it reads coil omage.
Replacement suggestions are welcome!
I haven't been around for a while. All is great. Rebuilding coils with great success wrapping 9/8 around a 5/64" tooth pick with Kanthal A1 30GA and wicking with cotton from cotton balls.
2 Vamo V5 with Protank 2, and 2 Vision Spinner II with mini protank 2.
About 4 days ago my second Vamo V5, the newer of the 2, started reading the coil ohms higher than what they actually are. A general example would be seeing a 2.1 as a 4.8.
Even so, vaping performance was still good.
The next step in the failure process is battery life.
Yesterday it went through a fairly new(31 charge cycles) AW IMR 18650 2000mAh in less than a day.
My average is more than 3 days before a charge, since I usually have 2 Vamos and 1 Spinner II running on my desk at all times. Even so, vaping performance still good.
Today I woke up and had a few good hits on it and the battery was dead again.
I put a freshly charged one in and it lasted about 5 minutes and it was getting pretty hot before it drained the battery.
Generally, I've been using 2.1 to .23 coils with a voltage setting of 3.4 to 3.7 and getting great results,
so I've not been pushing it hard.
It's a floating pin version and I keep the top fairly clean around the pin, soaking up the minor drippage with q-tips.
-----
I'd love to save it.
I can solder, but can't seem to find a way to get the board out of this, short of a dremel with a cutting wheel.
The joint right below the fire button unscrews and I can see inside. I thought of blasting it with some Deoxit DN-5 but that's gonna make a mess. ( I wish the original "Blue Shower" was still available ... the one that left absolutely no lube or residue behind )
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Thanks in advance for any comments or discussion.
Steve
UPDATE:
Pushed and tugged on the fire pin with a set of stats and also cleaned around the pin.
Pin is moving as it should.
Checked it with a multi meter.
Fire pin to the pin that touches the positive side of the battery was reading as connected and current flowing wide open. That doesn't seem right.
I shot some compressed air into it where I could see the board.
Now that pin to pin connection is reading zero on the multi meter, but the Vamo won't even boot up.
I'd guess a cold solder joint somewhere. I wish I could figure out how to get the board out of it.
P.S. The reason I lke the Vamo is that it reads coil omage.
Replacement suggestions are welcome!
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