Vandyvape Kylin Mesh best coils and thoughs

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Vilbourne

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Hey got this rta couple of days ago. Its very awesome, my new favorite rta. Clearly better than kylin2 and better than zeus x or equally good but this is buildable mesh. I have the profile rda and building this atleast equally easy. It worked on the first build and around 1000hits in and juice very sweet and yellow as dehydrated piss the coil is still good and smooth as new. It doesnt have any spitback at all and vapor is very flavorfull and smooth. Very airy full open just how i like it. Cant leak and work very constantly. Im a truck driver so i cant work with leaking attys. I dont get why people and some reviews claim this to be imposible to wick becouse you get dryhit. That is not true. Im not the best builder but with little common sense it works like charm. Upgraded wotofo profile xfiber cotton is just perfect. The original profile cotton is quite bad and way too much without thinning it. These is better than subohm and is very reliable vaper. Just wanted to share my experience and give opinion on something i like and need.

There are many mesh coils this size for buildables todays. Im using the 0.15 a1 it came with. I have some a1 nexmesh im thinkint is the new ss316l nexmesh coils worth it or should i order more of these same 0.15 A1s. Then there are some weird double mesh coils by vandyvape ment for this. I dont think tc is needed for mesh so its little weird but ss316l could be best for powermode aswell.
 

Vilbourne

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Yes that is right need to install coil straight and if you use too much cotton the spring under ceramic plate cant hold the wet pile of cotton in contact.

Kylin m has impressed me becouse it just works really flawesly and perform like a champion. There is no danger of dryhits, leaks. Even at 60w it drinks 4.5ml bubble glass empty really fast. Saturation works beatifully it starts bubbling soon as youve taken a hit. And it is very cheap to maintain compared to subohm coils some even cost 10e a piece.
 

bombastinator

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Yes that is right need to install coil straight and if you use too much cotton the spring under ceramic plate cant hold the wet pile of cotton in contact.

Kylin m has impressed me becouse it just works really flawesly and perform like a champion. There is no danger of dryhits, leaks. Even at 60w it drinks 4.5ml bubble glass empty really fast. Saturation works beatifully it starts bubbling soon as youve taken a hit. And it is very cheap to maintain compared to subohm coils some even cost 10e a piece.
In my experience too little cotton can be even more of a problem because the spring needs to be compressed in order to hold anything. The spring does help a lot though because it creates a much larger “sweet spot” where the wick is held against the coil by positive force, but is not so tight as to prevent juice flow.
 

Punk In Drublic

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Risks of receiving a dry hit is always present. The Kylin is no less susceptible and to mitigate any risks of dry hits we need to ensure a proper build.

Mesh is very low in mass with a large surface area – this means that hot spots can form almost instantly which can lead to a dry hit. We still need to ensure there are no voids between the mesh strip and wet wick, for any voids means the liquid is not acting as a coolant (for lack of better terminology), thus stabilizing the temperature across the entire surface of the mesh. Both the mesh and wick can deform with use, which can lead to a hot spot. Carbon buildup can also lead to hot spots
 
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Punk In Drublic

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In my experience too little cotton can be even more of a problem because the spring needs to be compressed in order to hold anything. The spring does help a lot though because it creates a much larger “sweet spot” where the wick is held against the coil by positive force, but is not so tight as to prevent juice flow.

The spring loaded pressure plate only does so much. I am of belief that the success of the Wotofo Profile design (and adopted by Vandy Vape), is due to not only employing a pressure plate, but also down to the use of smaller and or more ridged mesh strips. The implementation just mitigates the risk of hotspots – it does not eliminate them entirely. And of course, this is dependent on a proper build.
 

bombastinator

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Risks of receiving a dry hit is always present. The Kylin is no less susceptible and to mitigate any risks of dry hits we need to ensure a proper build.

Mesh is very low in mass with a large surface area – this means that hot spots can form almost instantly which can lead to a dry hit. We still need to ensure there are no voids between the mesh strip and wet wick, for any voids means the liquid is not acting as a coolant (for lack of better terminology), thus stabilizing the temperature across the entire surface of the mesh. Both the mesh and wick can deform with use, which can lead to a hot spot. Carbon buildup can also lead to hot spots
I agree though I would add the spring assists with making some of the problems inherent in mesh easier to avoid. Carbon remains an issue. Mesh in general is even more sensitive to carbon buildup problems than traditional coils. My experience with the spring system is with a profile, and one thing I noticed was that the mesh needed to be cleaned of carbon more often than the wick actually needed to be changed. I could often to this at least partially by scraping carbon from the outside of the mesh while leaving the wick in place. I could do this once, maybe twice befor I had to remove the wick just so I could properly clean or replace the mesh. The Mesh I was also very touchy to dryburn. (I was NOT using prepunched mesh plates but instead bits of #200 SS screen cut to size). I could only get a few dryburns out of a piece of screen before I had to replace it and doing that was a delicate process because if a hot spot formed it was likely to just melt right through and ruin the piece. Very short pulses were required. Still the stuff was very close to free however, and it would work with TC, unlike any prepunched plates I could find.

I did notice that when I did use prepunched plates instead of screen the carbon buildup was slower. I was getting maybe double the amount of use between cleanings than I would with a comparable wire coil based DL atty. for me that was about 4 days. Very much a YMMV thing though. Plates still didn’t dry burn well though so I was replacing them several times as often as I might with a 26g or 24g wire coil
 

Vilbourne

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I think when profile and kylin m is properly built they are dryhit proof and last pretty long. I built the profile so many times and learned from errors. Like wotofo upgraded their profile premade cotton and it is 10x better now becouse it is not that damn thick anymore. So many people build profile wrong with too much cotton or then they tight the cotton ends to the sides and doing so lock the spring in place. You know you had it right when you unscrew your meshplate and see how the spring lift coil and cotton. Rightly built mesh plate remain clean looking some may change color but if it starts to build crap then it must be wrong.
 

Vilbourne

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I simply cannot install nexmesh ss316l coil. It work in tc mode but nah and power mode it dryhit/bad contact. When i bend the mesh sheet over the tool it doesnt hold shape and has to be forced to fit in its place.i dont know if this is the reason it looks good and i have done this countless of times.

Overall A1 or ss316 nexmesh is not worth it they can cost over double than better coils like xfkm 0.15 mesh plates. Vv mesh is pretty good too and original wotofo and meshworks too. Prettymuch anything exept nexmesh is worth it. 10nexmesh coils can cost 11e lol. A1 0.15 mesh doesnt dryhit or spitback and vaporize 100ml of juice easily if built right. I completely agree with the design of this kind of deck. It just works perfectly when its right but it can be horrible and unhealthy if not properly installed.
 
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