Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Some of those cheap automotive brush type battery terminal cleaners would probably do a pretty good job on those threads also.
I'm currently giving my squonker flask a little love as all my stuff has been being neglected since the arrival of the SXK flask.
Speaking of which, the main selling point of the SXK was it's ability to fire @ 0.06Ω. That translated to dual 28 gauge Nickel coils and would have made a great squonker and real easy at that.
But I guess I should just be happy that it even works. End
I'm currently giving my squonker flask a little love as all my stuff has been being neglected since the arrival of the SXK flask.
Speaking of which, the main selling point of the SXK was it's ability to fire @ 0.06Ω. That translated to dual 28 gauge Nickel coils and would have made a great squonker and real easy at that.
But I guess I should just be happy that it even works. End
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Zephyrus Sub Ohm Tank by Youde
Might be worth a look. Cheaper than FT
Oh I forgot FT lowered the price, about the same before shipping.
Might be worth a look. Cheaper than FT
Oh I forgot FT lowered the price, about the same before shipping.
Nice tank especially like they way they did the coils in the head. However, I'm in the market for something that has an rba. Coil heads get expensive. The aqua is the one where the cotton drapes out of the sides? I want to order that, just lookin for a good price. Are there different versions of the aqua? Which is better IYO?
So I was slightly inebriated the other night and managed to somehow lose the center pin of the 510 connector on my Kangxin flask. Any ideas on where I can get a replacement? Or did I just jump myself forward to the FDV v3 swap? Lol
@dwcraig1 , @Quantum Mech : You guys were busy yesterday on the SXK Flask! Great Discussion! Learned a lot about the SXK. Not seeing the up side of jumping on that bandwagon just yet.
@JAlexander Great Pics! Thanks for posting. Hope you were successful!
Good stuff guys!
@JAlexander Great Pics! Thanks for posting. Hope you were successful!
Good stuff guys!
Some of us have a life outside ECF sorry for that
Thought it was established after the video that the battery caps to case threading was the issue ?
Did we miss much
I was just reading the posts for the first time and admiring your efforts on behalf of JAlexander and thought I would express that.
Nothing at all to be sorry about.
Nothing at all to be sorry about.
the waidea 60w tc black clone from FC was working just fine in ni200 with the original subtank v1 (floating pin), reading the ohms and temp protection just fine.
However this changed when I bought a bell cap with subtank mini base and used a brand new authentic kanger occ ni200 coil, after screwing the atty on waidea, it started showing really high ohms and getting out of the temp mode, tried screwing out and in, firing few times and the readings were all over the place 0.5, 0.3, 1.4 etc.
I thought I read it at some point, before the SXK took over the scene, there are potential issues with waidea - just not sure if this fits into that 'known' pattern.
As I didnt have the proper screwdriver (what type of screwdriver one needs to unscrew the top, is it torx t8?), i tried to further test with a dripper base and ni200 build that I knew worked perfectly ok.
I did few fires to get an ohm reading and it read 0.2 then immediately started acted weirdly - jumping the ohms higher. When I stop firing the button, the screen doesnt show a firing action but the coil started glowing.. as if someone firing it. Im pretty sure it was not like fire-button-press was simulated as the screen didnt update or give any such indication. I waited for few seconds and coil glowed more and then stopped.
After that I took out the atty and kept the mod aside.
Does any of these findings correlate to the reported or known issues about waidea (black) 60w from FC ?
Also if i manage to top cap which part should i look for the bottom contact or under the top-cap. Is sanding necessary ? Little confused after reading pages of SXK troubleshooting.
Would greatly appreciate if one can shed some light and guidance on what to do from here.
However this changed when I bought a bell cap with subtank mini base and used a brand new authentic kanger occ ni200 coil, after screwing the atty on waidea, it started showing really high ohms and getting out of the temp mode, tried screwing out and in, firing few times and the readings were all over the place 0.5, 0.3, 1.4 etc.
I thought I read it at some point, before the SXK took over the scene, there are potential issues with waidea - just not sure if this fits into that 'known' pattern.
As I didnt have the proper screwdriver (what type of screwdriver one needs to unscrew the top, is it torx t8?), i tried to further test with a dripper base and ni200 build that I knew worked perfectly ok.
I did few fires to get an ohm reading and it read 0.2 then immediately started acted weirdly - jumping the ohms higher. When I stop firing the button, the screen doesnt show a firing action but the coil started glowing.. as if someone firing it. Im pretty sure it was not like fire-button-press was simulated as the screen didnt update or give any such indication. I waited for few seconds and coil glowed more and then stopped.
After that I took out the atty and kept the mod aside.
Does any of these findings correlate to the reported or known issues about waidea (black) 60w from FC ?
Also if i manage to top cap which part should i look for the bottom contact or under the top-cap. Is sanding necessary ? Little confused after reading pages of SXK troubleshooting.
Would greatly appreciate if one can shed some light and guidance on what to do from here.
Response to my email to SXK, pretty vague and non-committal:
I'm so appreciated to your email.
I have told our engineers about what you told me. They said we will try to improve our chips.
Any information I will tell you immediately.
I will reply to him pointing him to @Matty316 's post indicating he will return the device due to low resistance.
I'm so appreciated to your email.
I have told our engineers about what you told me. They said we will try to improve our chips.
Any information I will tell you immediately.
I will reply to him pointing him to @Matty316 's post indicating he will return the device due to low resistance.
There was some posts saying that the 510 live pin was shorting, causing auto firing
Have you tried this?:
Screw on the caps without batteries inside.
Take a multimeter on ohm setting and hold one terminal to one of the brass caps and the other terminal to the ground part of the 510 connector. Repeat for other battery cap.
What readings do you get?
Screw on the caps without batteries inside.
Take a multimeter on ohm setting and hold one terminal to one of the brass caps and the other terminal to the ground part of the 510 connector. Repeat for other battery cap.
What readings do you get?
i get a reading of 00.5 ohm, on both bat caps to 510 ground, batteries of.
While I'm not sure, I think that procedure was meant for jalexander.
BTW, is that also the reading you get when you touch the two probes together? Or does your meter auto zero?
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can i check real quick what type of screwdriver needed to top cap off (torx t8?) and screwing off and then back on is enough for waidea shorting? Im not even sure if they symtom i mentioned falls under the same..
any feedback would be appreciated.
T5 I think it is, because that's 1.4mm which is what @dwcraig1 measured the screw heads as
A 1.4 mm hex but a t5 torx works good
OOPS
Gee I'm not sure now
Post is correct now
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