Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I have the 1:1 VaporFlask clone made by Waidea, and I wore the first one out and ordered another 6 months later and they had improved some quality control things, such as the original 510 that likes to get loose.
So what I would like is basically a real DNA40 board that is titanium-aware to drop in to this unit.
Because the ergonomics of this vaporflask are perfect and since I vape at only 18.5W, I don't really need a DNA 200 etc. I just need a genuine DNA40 board that is titanium aware! - when will they make it? - does DNA75 fit?
PS- if anyone wants an awesome upgrade for your VF clone or genuine VF, I sell the highest quality German-made stainless Torx screws for it! - they look nearly identical to the originals, except German made quality, stainless, and stronger, and size Torx T5 - so you will never strip one out again!
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No such animal as an original Evolv DNA40 Ti Aware. But the Dna75 Has been released, Works with Escribe, but you will need to widen the screen orifice to a large screen.
I have seen where people have installed DNA200 in a Waidea but he had to extend the usb & screen by soldering so I wouldn't call it a drop in install. Not sure how he got around the body ground and turned it to 2s but you wouldn't have that problem with a DNA75. Scuttlebutt is Evolv is working on a DNA50 but that is rumor.
View Single Post - Zif socket and cable - Evolv DNA Forum Here is one guy that was working on flask
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I never had any problem using titanium with the DNA40, just have to set the right temp. I'm using SS 430 with it right now. (with two of them)
The DNA75 is very different in size to the DNA40 though, and I don't think that external buttons are easily soldered to the board. I can't imagine a retrofit being easy. If it is, I definitely need to do it as well.
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not impossible. Remote buttons easy. Usb Extension more Challenging, Screen Extension not impossible-I have done it with ribbon cable and ZIF Socket on the VTR200, Widening Screen aperture and re anodizing to proper finish is probably hardest part.
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Definitely too advanced for me. I don't thin that even remote buttons would be easy for me...
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I don't even use the USB port, faster for me to just grab hot batteries out of the charger
Yes, you can vape with titanium on DNA40 by setting a lower temp, but because there is an associated temperature/resistance curve, this is far from ideal. The device really needs to have the titanium map already inside its programming to work well.
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what is the name of the processor board/chip in the Waidea VF clone and who makes this chip and what are its advantages/disadvantages to current small screen genuine DNA40?
They were labelled Rayn v3 or V4 depending on the model. No advantages. Half second delay on fire, TC not as accurate, intermittent or lazy pre-heat punch.
If you do a search of this thread though there were links to where you could buy the SXK chips that had the nickle purity settings/adjust ability. Evolv is rumored to be working on a DNA50 for smaller format mods but again that is rumor. Joyetech also sells their chips upwards of $60us
the ryan boards were the closest 1:1 board that I found at that time of release. they did have their quirks but all around not a horrible board. did the job just fine with kanthal, Ni and Ti (with temp offset). my silver waidea still works fine. a little nicer, aesthetically, with the FDV 510 transplant.
edit.......all this talk made me throw a couple fresh vtc4's in her and take her out for a vape. working just fine maxed at 40 watts, 320°F into a 24g 7 wrap Ti coil in the old school Delta II.
edit.......all this talk made me throw a couple fresh vtc4's in her and take her out for a vape. working just fine maxed at 40 watts, 320°F into a 24g 7 wrap Ti coil in the old school Delta II.
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do you think that a genuine original DNA40 board is a worthwhile upgrade if the price on it is cheap and you don't mind the labor to replace the stock silver Waidea board? (I use titanium and TC exclusively)
I just like the feel in the hand of the Waidea VF clone better than *any* mod that has come out since, but performance could be better, probably for the reasons stated above.
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i love my both my waidea flasks. one is silver with the stock board and upgraded FDV 510. the other is my black waidea flask with the evolv dna 40 and FDV 510 guts only (to make the stock spring loaded). the black flask gets used more because.......well it's that much closer to the authentic flask. the board is that much better as well.
so yes, i'd say the time i spent tearing out the old board and stock, non spring loaded 510 was worth it. i had a chance to handle a real dna 40 flask, and honestly the only difference between the real one and mine is the up and down buttons are flush on the real one and stick out 1-2 mm on mine. differences end there.
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You need a set of my awesome German-made hardened stainless steel Torx T5 screws - the Waidea screws will eventually strip out, besides, these look very cool and are the exact size and flush fit as the Waidea screws, but very strong and classy looking.
I only vape at about 19 watts - does anyone know if there is any advantage to the DNA25 over the current small screen DNA40?
the torx screws on the black one are pretty much shot. i have to hammer a micro flat head screwdriver into where the torx bit would normally go if i want to unscrew the top plate.
the dna 28 is less money than the dna 40. that's about the only diff. and i think it only has °F no Celsius. i don't think it has atty lock either.
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