Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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Nibiru2012

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OK, just placed an order for a flask & batteries, can you experts click and see if I done good?

Batteries - ($18 for the pair with shippin)

Great job! Those LG HE2 batteries get great reviews!

I was able to find the newer LG HE4 18650 2500mAh batteries for $14.95 per pair with plastic battery case & free shipping.
Thought I would give them a try since they're an improved version of the LG HE2 type. The LG HE4 is an upgraded LG HE2 battery.

Unlike the HE2 which would hit high temperatures during use it stays cooler and also has a continuous maximum discharge current of
20A and a maximum discharge current of 35A. So I thought I would give these a try.

Most folks will usually see them listed this way: LG DBHE4 18650 2500mah 35A Flat Top Battery
Although what is stamped on the yellow battery jacket is: LGDBHE41865
 

Tpat591

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Tpat,

I don't know how you find all these videos but I am sure glad you did. In show and tell part he shows how it is NOT possible to capture the coil under the screws there is almost no lip what so ever on the screws. I would have been disappointed if I bought and discovered that fact. I have had all the trouble I care to deal with trying to use post holes with Ni200

PS - I searched high and low for any reference to the Lemo 2 but after seeing the review of the device I can wait. I don't know that I think the top fill with the V2 is a big advantage my top filling Fogger is a real PITA. But I sure like everything else about it.

Regards

In Goliath Video He specifically mentions they had addressed the issues of shortcomings with the screws present in the Goblin, but your right they are a pain.

Probably better off with Fogger for duals & Taifun / Kayfun / Subtank w/ RBA for single nickel builds. Running Subtank w/ VS NI200 OCC coil right now myself as well as an old Taifun GT w/ NI200. Haven't attempted Duals yet myself w/ NI200 but when I do it will be in an RDA.

Lemo-II-Rebuildable-Atomizer-Kit-3.8ml-Silver
 
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cliff87

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Great job! Those LG HE2 batteries get great reviews!

I was able to find the newer LG HE4 18650 2500mAh batteries for $14.95 per pair with plastic battery case & free shipping.
Thought I would give them a try since they're an improved version of the LG HE2 type. The LG HE4 is an upgraded LG HE2 battery.

Unlike the HE2 which would hit high temperatures during use it stays cooler and also has a continuous maximum discharge current of
20A and a maximum discharge current of 35A. So I thought I would give these a try.

i found some of them as well and i have loved the he4 battery so far. i've noticed that my mod hasn't heated up as quick or bad while using them. however in my authentic vapor flask they are a tight fit but still can come out with a light tap. in my kangxin flask they fit alot easier, but performance wise i love them.
 

HolmanGT

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In Goliath Video He specifically mentions they had addressed the issues of shortcomings with the screws present in the Goblin, but your right they are a pain.

Probably better off with Fogger for duals & Taifun / Kayfun / Subtank w/ RBA for single nickel builds. Running Subtank w/ VS NI200 OCC coil right now myself as well as an old Taifun GT w/ NI200. Haven't attempted Duals yet myself w/ NI200 but when I do it will be in an RDA.

Eleaf Lemo II Rebuildable Atomizer Kit - 3.8ml, Silver

I just ordered the Lemo 2 from Heaven - hope God has Airmail. - Thanks for the tip albeit I really hate ordering from China.
 

WeirdWillie

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How'd this thread turn from VF clone discussion to batteries, Goliath's and Lemo ll discussions?

(Off the soapbox )
Have had my 3fvape silver 1659 for 5 days now and I must say it's kicking azz.
Does what my authentic DNA40's should do but don't which is work consistently without screen glitches.
Preforms fabulous with whatever RBA I put on it, some may see the adjustable screw center pin as a pain, but I feel it lends to better more secure contact than a spring loaded 510.
 

dwcraig1

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My 1659 from 3fvape finally arrived. It's beautiful. It passed the cotton dry burn test. Very happy so far with the vape.

One thing though... I see no evidence of any preheat function working. To be honest I really don't care too much, but was wondering if its supposed to have that functionality.

Are you using nickel for your coil?. That is the model I have and the preheat works, if it didn't it would be quite evident.
I guess if it passed the dry cotton test you are using nickel...duh:)
 

dwcraig1

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Someone, I believe in this thread, asked if the battery icon stopped moving when fully charged. At the time they asked I would have said it continues to show charging even when fully charged. That would have been wrong because mine does stop when finished, it just take a while longer than one would expect.
 

squag

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Are you using nickel for your coil?. That is the model I have and the preheat works, if it didn't it would be quite evident.
I guess if it passed the dry cotton test you are using nickel...duh:)

How do you tell it works? I don't see the power increase higher than the set power like I do on a dna40. And yes, this is for nickel.
 

dwcraig1

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How do you tell it works? I don't see the power increase higher than the set power like I do on a dna40. And yes, this is for nickel.

I used a volt meter on the atty posts, it clearly went beyond the setting. Used an Ohm's Law calculator as well.
The voltage would spike much higher then back down to the "expected" voltage till it would limit at TP setting and back off even farther.
If it didn't work that 1 second delay would be more like 3 seconds, that's quite a job to fire a coil that's near a dead short.
 
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squag

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I used a volt meter on the atty posts, it clearly went beyond the setting. Used an Ohm's Law calculator as well.

So the screen does not show a power greater than the set power level? When you did your calculations, did you take into account the temperature dependent resistance. Even without preheat, the voltage should increase as the coil heats up to compensate for the increased resistance. That way power stays the same. P=V^2/R
 

dwcraig1

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I'm looking at the initial voltage when fired and then voltage it settles to before the wattage starts backing down. The wattage on the display will not always go above wattage setting even on the Evolv board is all situations.
I am looking at this again right now to see what I can find out more.
I had to enlist the help from my son on this , guess I could have used a mirror (VS rdna 40)couldn't see the screen on the VS when drawing on it during firing. My setting are the same on the VF clone and the rDNA, the setting is 27 watts. The rDNA climbs quickly to 39 -40 watts then back to 27. The VF clone stays in the 27 watt range. This is where the voltage readings taken off the atty comes in, it shows what it really happening as opposed to the display.

So when using the Evolv chip or the KX chip, except for the one second delay I find no difference to speak of between the two.

This is stuff falls into the category of "my conclusion " , my opinion, something like that but I did do tests on it but lack sophisticated equipment and only have basic electrical knowlege.
 
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squag

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I'm looking at the initial voltage when fired and then voltage it settles to before the wattage starts backing down. The wattage on the display will not always go above wattage setting even on the Evolv board is all situations.

Ok, have you ever seen the kangxin chip display a power greater than the set power?

I don't think the voltage measurements imply pre-heat is working. What you describe should happen even without preheat.

Did I tell you how much I love this mod? Worth the wait.
 
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dwcraig1

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Ok, have you ever seen the kangxin chip display a power greater than the set power?

I don't think the voltage measurements imply pre-heat is working. What you describe should happen even without preheat.

Did I tell you how much I love this mod? Worth the wait.

No I don't think that I've seen the wattage display higher than it's setting, again that's where the voltage reading off the atty come in. I didn't know just how high they would go but on the clone they would spike just a bit higher than the Evolv board. It was close enough to say they acted the same even though the Evolv board's display showed higher wattage during ramp up.
 

squag

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No I don't think that I've seen the wattage display higher than it's setting, again that's where the voltage reading off the atty come in. I didn't know just how high they would go but on the clone they would spike just a bit higher than the Evolv board. It was close enough to say they acted the same even though the Evolv board's display showed higher wattage during ramp up.

Ok, I see. I agree if the voltage spikes are the same for both boards then pre-heat is working. To be honest though, I just don't feel the same quick burst of vapor from this clone as i do from the dna40. Maybe it's just the delay.
 

dwcraig1

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Ok, I see. I agree if the voltage spikes are the same for both boards then pre-heat is working. To be honest though, I just don't feel the same quick burst of vapor from this clone as i do from the dna40. Maybe it's just the delay.

Just hit the fire button before hand by 1 sec.
I figure the delay has to do with the 5 clicks to lock/unlock
 

squag

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dwcraig1

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Thanks. I assume the spike in the first .5 seconds is the preheat.

There is another clone scope trace in this video at the 20:40 mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9Eg9mSOVLw

There is no spike, but he's also running at 35 watts - not much room for preheat to act.

This test is not with nickel coil so there is no pre-heat


I'm sideways here, it 's nickel
What I was looking at wasn't nickel though
 
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