Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Phone Guy]

Phone, it's a photo of the black Waidea you want?

You have a Kangxin then?

I don't know which one I have, I bought the flask as a broken device from another member who fried the chip in an attempt to do a soldering repair job. I bought it with full intentions of replacing the chinese chip with a DNA30, when I did that, I realized my brand new DNA30 has a flickering screen issue, so I had to use a DNA20 as it was the last chip left in my arsenal of spare parts.

My flask has a stainless 510 threading connector, battery caps DO line up when tightened, says VAPORPLASK in white on the bottom, and has like a coating of some kind, sort of like the istick 50w, but thicker if that makes sense.... you can clearly see the texture in the picture I posted above. That's why I wanted to see the pictures of the Waidea, especially close ups of the finish, because as I understand it, the genuine flask in black looks like BLACK BRUSHED METAL...?

Because I have fully operated on mine, I know it has a white plastic tray inside that has 3 switches mounted to it... when removing the top plate, there is no secondary plate like I've seen on one of the pictures early on in this thread, and ZERO hot glue of any kind anywhere. The up/down buttons have edges so they can not pulled out from the outside of the device, the fire dome switch you can remove but you need to take the top plate off and kind of push it out, but it has no such "lip" or edge to prevent it from coming out like the front mounted up/down buttons do. OH and it's common ground is the 510 ground, and uses the 4 top plate screws to conduct ground to the body of the flask... there is no ground wire/screw in the main body.

Again, I was not the original purchaser, so I don't even know if this one had temp control or was just a 30/40/50w device? I don't know.

 

[dwcraig1]

My first real post, been lurking on and off since the days when the Silver Bullet and the Chuck were the must have toys, Now I have something worth posting.. Just received my Waidea today from Focal, It was ordered 4/18, and guess what??? the pin is spring loaded!! Working like a champ, fit and finish are spot on, vaping a Very Nice Turkish Net @ 450F NI build @.09 ohm 28ga 5 wraps evenly spaced on my Kanger Sub Mini.. Have another one coming from the US warehouse I bought during the Easter sale, it was a race to see which arrived first.. Will see if I can get a Pic, posted if I am allowed... If someone already posted this, sorry for being redundant..

Maybe you mean 3-18 as 4-18 hasn't been here yet.LOL

 

[WeirdWillie]

Not sure if you can tell... This is a picture from my note 4 phone... The best I can do

Are those Phillip head screws on the top?
Where and when did you get it, those look to be aluminum buttons where the ones on my silver Waida are chrome, and the black looks painted instead of anodized.
Or is it just the picture and I'm imagining it.

 

[dwcraig1]

I just finished de-soldering the pads on my two Evolv boards before I send them for screen replacement. What a job, like a dumb a-thingy I snipped the wires real close to the board upon removal because I had no idea about fixing them. At least 2 hours. Anyways success.
(It got censored)

 

[TheBloke]

I don't know which one I have, I bought the flask as a broken device from another member who fried the chip in an attempt to do a soldering repair job. I bought it with full intentions of replacing the chinese chip with a DNA30, when I did that, I realized my brand new DNA30 has a flickering screen issue, so I had to use a DNA20 as it was the last chip left in my arsenal of spare parts.

No, my black Waidea doesn't have that 'painted' style finish. It is a little slippery, and picks up marks easily, but the finish doesn't look like yours at any angle that I can see.

I need to go to bed now but I can take more photos/videos tomorrow if the following phone photo doesn't clear it up.

This photo I took when I first dismantled it a couple of days ago. Pretty close up, with flash. You can see finger prints/marks all over, as an example of how it picks those up. But it doesn't look, I don't know, 'glossy' like yours does.

 

[TheBloke]

Kangxin doesn't have a spring either.

Oh, I thought one of the earlier ones did. So there's no VF TC clone we know of with a sprung pin?

 

[WeirdWillie]

I just finished de-soldering the pads on my two Evolv boards before I send them for screen replacement. What a job, like a dumb a-thingy I snipped the wires real close to the board upon removal because I had no idea about fixing them. At least 2 hours. Anyways success.
(It got censored)

Don't feel bad like and Idiot I did the same thing on one of my mods a couple months ago.

 

[Tpat591]

@Tpat: I'd love to see some close up pictures, especially of the finish. I have a black one, but its like coated... kind of slippery in the hand so to speak.

Gave it a try with my iphone but played with incandescent lighting to try & accent grain so color in some may appear off a bit.

You can clearly see the sealant Nicole spoke of at the top plate seam in these but it is not as noticeable in person.

Best I can do for now.

 

[dwcraig1]

Regarding the spring loaded center pin on the 25 mm Kanger Subtank. Except for the spring loaded pin the "floating" 510 pin is the same on all three models.
Where one could run into a problem with the spring loaded one would be on a mod that has a spring loaded 510 pin, in which case I would suggest to remove the spring loaded pin from the Subtank. Just how one would go about removing it I don't have the answer just yet, give me a couple minutes.

I'm looking at it now and have no good answer as to how to "nicely" remove it.

So here's what I did with mine, cut off the little pin with flush cutters (old pair) and built up the end a bit with silver solder then sanded it down some on a flat surface.

I've put it on my VS rDNA40 and it's flush, maybe later I'll throw a nickel build in it.

I'm thinking this needs to come back up to the front. Probably just snipping off that spring loaded pin would be sufficient, no way do you want your connection made through it when using Ni200 especially with a spring loaded 510 in the mod.
Today I shall do the nickel coil in my 25 mm ST RBA head. the mini I did this morning, got to twist up some 30, I'll be back.

I haven't tried it yet.

Note that I had to angle the coil to fit it in there well. Also the juice channels are larger. Prior to putting either ST attty on my mod I push the 510 pin inward on the ST first.
It works well on my Hcigar DNA40,0.12Ω @ 20 watts and 450F
Went up to 27 watts, then 35 watts, now 40 watts....no TP as yet and this one shows it.

 

[RUG GUY]

Says DNA40 on start up, I changed my order to the Waidea, I had the Kangxin as my original order, but changed it due to the fact the ship date kept getting pushed back, and also, from the posts in this thread about Hot glue... Doris @ Focal was very accommodating. I believe this is a Waidea, maybe they did a new batch run with the spring loaded pin?? If these pics post, you tell me?? Hope my US shipped unit is of same batch. The Kanger sits tight flush... The other mod is an IPV Mini 2 with a Freak show on it, the Freak show came in the same order... You know the old saying if it aint broke dont fix it??? well I had a original Lava tube until about 6 weeks ago and was putzing along, then my B&M guy asked if I ever tried a air flow tank??? I said "a what???" bought a Kanger mega, and started doing a little online research...Yea the credit card is a little thin but look at the Toys!! the advancements in Vape gear blows me away....

 

[RUG GUY]

Yea sorry, I live in a cave, days and dates don't play a big part in my life

 

[Phone Guy]

Are those Phillip head screws on the top?
Where and when did you get it, those look to be aluminum buttons where the ones on my silver Waida are chrome, and the black looks painted instead of anodized.
Or is it just the picture and I'm imagining it.

See this post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...k-v3-dna40-clone-thread-217.html#post15613715
SHORT ANSWER: I bought it used as broken to replace the chip with a genuine DNA, I don't know anything except it came from fasttech and is no longer listed.

Yes, they are phillips head screws and somewhat stripped, I really need to get some replacement screws for the top plate...have not had time to go to the hardware store.

It looks anodized INSIDE when I had it apart, but the outside has some kind of coating - very hard to explain.

 

[Phone Guy]

I just finished de-soldering the pads on my two Evolv boards before I send them for screen replacement. What a job, like a dumb a-thingy I snipped the wires real close to the board upon removal because I had no idea about fixing them. At least 2 hours. Anyways success.
(It got censored)

So you FIXED your issue? or just cleaned it up to send back to evolv?

 

[Phone Guy]

Oh, I thought one of the earlier ones did. So there's no VF TC clone we know of with a sprung pin?

Mine is a stainless 510 with brass spring loaded center pin.

 

[Phone Guy]

Gave it a try with my iphone but played with incandescent lighting to try & accent grain so color in some may appear off a bit.

You can clearly see the sealant Nicole spoke of at the top plate seam in these but it is not as noticeable in person.

Best I can do for now.

Man that finish looks amazing.... Looks expensive ME LIKE!

 

[Ry4life]

Without having to read 218 pages of this thread , which is the better flask the Kanxin or the wadeia ?

 

[Phone Guy]

Without having to read 218 pages of this thread , which is the better flask the Kanxin or the wadeia ?

Everyone love's the Waidea (or however you spell it), go back 1 page and see the pictures Tpat just posted of his he received today from Focal

 

[TheBloke]

Mine is a stainless 510 with brass spring loaded center pin.

Let us know when your Alibaba page is live

 

[dwcraig1]

So you FIXED your issue? or just cleaned it up to send back to evolv?

I put three boards into my Kx clone squonker DIY project, I broke the screens off the ribbon on the first two due to improper placement of the board. I'm sending those two in for new screen but first I wanted to make sure I could get wires into them again.
I haven't sad much about it since finishing it but it was a success, I use it daily.

 

[Croak]

Rug Guy, are you sure it's spring loaded? Done the screwdriver test? Not doubting you, but your picture doesn't look any different than the solid pin version from Waidea.