Yeah I am starting to lean towards the thinking that it's to coil, since it happens if I tighten it to much. I think it's the coil since the legs are pressure held with a runner grommet. I think the flask is working right, and only messes up when I mess with the mini. The 510 isn't rotating or anything I think that maybe when I tighten it down it's messing with the coil in the mini base.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I don't know about you, but my STmini doesn't even come close to being flush on the Waidea. I'm not going to use it on there, I would probably overtighten it and mess up the 510.
Same here. I'm waiting for my dna40 chip, then when I open it I'll do everything at one time.
when you tighten the kanger on too tight you are actually loosening up the 510 center pin cap nut a bit causing a loose connection to the ground loop to show up. That is how Bloke caused his issue in the beginning. If it persists you will need to pop the cap & tighten the silver 510 center pin cap a bit & it should Stabilize. Till then don't over tighten it.
But he says the resistance becomes lower not higher.
might be causing the center pin to lean causing the positive solder joint at 510 to get too close to silver top cap & start to short it momentarily.
When he loosens it up he relieves the pressure, center pin shifts solder joint widens gap all is good.
Leaning of center pin in 510 can also cause center pin on mini to lean in 510 lowering resistance without immediately shorting, once excessive pressure is released so is problem.
When he loosens it up he relieves the pressure, center pin shifts solder joint widens gap all is good.
Leaning of center pin in 510 can also cause center pin on mini to lean in 510 lowering resistance without immediately shorting, once excessive pressure is released so is problem.
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Why not? Adding a Thin flat washer will keep it from twisting when tightening, It will make a solid electrical connection & you don't have to worry about a tabbed washer touching or damaging the ChiNA40 display ribbon cable (had to go there) & you can always put it back where it was if you want to send it back on warranty. This is a way to establish a solid connection for those not comfortable soldering a tabbed washer in or pulling the sled because it is relatively easy.
Might be tough to position loop with a socket w/o pulling sled. Open ended wrench would probably be easier to work with.
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510 shouldn't rotate because there is a positioning triangle under 510 flange. I doubt it is in the mini but it is possible I guess if you are squeezing that rubber grommet down so far it is losing its ability to insulate properly but I would think that unlikely. Easiest way to test if it is in mod is to disconnect tank & take a small screwdriver & see it you can shift 510 center pin on mod slightly by applying slight lateral pressure. If you can, you will eventually need to pull the top plate & tighten the large silver 510 end cap (smooth, big, silver). Reattach top plate applying downward pressure & snug up screws pretty good. Your problems will probably go away at that point.
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When you figure it out, let us know what you found. Hope it works out!
I'm betting grounding.
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Very good point. Missed this my 1st time through.
Could bearing down on a subtank w/ occ too much against a fixed 510 cause center pin on tank to rotate, in turn causing that to rotate bottom pin plate on coil, flexing it enough to cause 2 coils to touch? Sounds like a real stretch but NI200? I would think those long tails would flex 1st.
Never had it happen myself while actively using 3 subtank minis w/ ni200 occs & consider it unlikely, but strange stuff happens.
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I had ordered up a FD V3 Shorty & took my black Waidea flask out of operation to install it. All went well, but while I had it apart I soldered a Wire to the open GND terminal on the ChiNA40 board & drilled a 1/16" hole in the fattest part of the webbing between the battery tube & the chip well below the display to sink a screw in to ground to the case but my bit drifted too far to the side of the case to fit a screw head in properly & I'm afraid to take out too much material.
I've now got some of Willie's Silver Epoxy on order from Amazon as a plan B & when it is received I plan to fill the hole with the epoxy using a syringe and embed the ground wire in that. Ought to give a decent chassis ground and since I have a silver one & a Kangxin I can afford to leave it out of service for a while.
Really hate the look of the FD V3 on this as I really like the single slotted SS 510 look. ...... Waidea tapped the bottom of the 510 thread out to M8x.05mm(?) for the insulator for the fixed pin because it is just too big to finagle the proper mounting of the FD V3 Core in there easily. Height of the old 510 really shouldn't be a problem with the V3 shorty core (if anything it is too short without the insulator & too long with it) so I also ordered a 510 tap & die set as I have not yet given up on retaining my single slotted look. I figure I'll try & drill out the old insulator & tap that for the V3 core & if that falls apart, there is silver solder or JB Weld to fill in the larger threads & re-tap the lower threads to 510 to mount the V3 core into the old 510 adjusting the height accordingly.
Just waiting for tools & supplies that were ordered a little while ago. Vape mail blues setting in yet again!
I've now got some of Willie's Silver Epoxy on order from Amazon as a plan B & when it is received I plan to fill the hole with the epoxy using a syringe and embed the ground wire in that. Ought to give a decent chassis ground and since I have a silver one & a Kangxin I can afford to leave it out of service for a while.
Really hate the look of the FD V3 on this as I really like the single slotted SS 510 look. ...... Waidea tapped the bottom of the 510 thread out to M8x.05mm(?) for the insulator for the fixed pin because it is just too big to finagle the proper mounting of the FD V3 Core in there easily. Height of the old 510 really shouldn't be a problem with the V3 shorty core (if anything it is too short without the insulator & too long with it) so I also ordered a 510 tap & die set as I have not yet given up on retaining my single slotted look. I figure I'll try & drill out the old insulator & tap that for the V3 core & if that falls apart, there is silver solder or JB Weld to fill in the larger threads & re-tap the lower threads to 510 to mount the V3 core into the old 510 adjusting the height accordingly.
Just waiting for tools & supplies that were ordered a little while ago. Vape mail blues setting in yet again!
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That wouldn't bother me too much, since it'll always have an atty on it anyway, I don't just put it on a table and admire it sans atomizer.
I will say I'm far happier with the fixed 510 on the Waidea than the adjustable on the Kangxin, it just works with everything I've thrown at it, with minimal gaps, it's not press-fitted and it's steel threading, just overall a better experience.
So I'm not too fussed about upgrading to a spring loaded 510 even though I have a couple sitting here I could throw in it.
EDIT: You know Tpat, you could also reach out to Waidea and see if they would be willing to sell you just the spring loaded 510 assembly from the updated versions, if they are indeed going that route. Would solve all your problems without any hackery.
I will say I'm far happier with the fixed 510 on the Waidea than the adjustable on the Kangxin, it just works with everything I've thrown at it, with minimal gaps, it's not press-fitted and it's steel threading, just overall a better experience.
So I'm not too fussed about upgrading to a spring loaded 510 even though I have a couple sitting here I could throw in it.
EDIT: You know Tpat, you could also reach out to Waidea and see if they would be willing to sell you just the spring loaded 510 assembly from the updated versions, if they are indeed going that route. Would solve all your problems without any hackery.
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On the Kx clone the usb is held in place with a screw, if Waidea did it the same way couldn't that screw be used for a ground?
So question is, how is the usb held in place on the Waidea clone?
So question is, how is the usb held in place on the Waidea clone?
There's a milled "tube" that the USB connector board sits in, the lip of that might be a good spot to drill for a ground, but it's so deep inside it'll be a ..... to get at for drilling or wiring.
That was my first plan but it looked like a compression mount was holding it in there. Willies pics didn't give me that impression but with the anodizing on the tube & what looked like a compression mount, I didn't trust it for a proper ground.
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I agree in retrospect I might not have changed it at all but I nipped the leads before I pulled the sled & realized I was reluctant to ground to the usb. I can still reverse it & your right most of the time I will never see the 510, but I will always know its there!That wouldn't bother me too much, since it'll always have an atty on it anyway, I don't just put it on a table and admire it sans atomizer.
I will say I'm far happier with the fixed 510 on the Waidea than the adjustable on the Kangxin, it just works with everything I've thrown at it, with minimal gaps, it's not press-fitted and it's steel threading, just overall a better experience.
So I'm not too fussed about upgrading to a spring loaded 510 even though I have a couple sitting here I could throw in it.
EDIT: You know Tpat, you could also reach out to Waidea and see if they would be willing to sell you just the spring loaded 510 assembly from the updated versions, if they are indeed going that route. Would solve all your problems without any hackery.
Agree about the 510 over Kangxin. Fixed pin doesn't bother me like it does the guys on AAEC because they can't use their KF4 clones on it. Every time I thread on Kangxin im so frigging worried about mis-threading it. Waidea I don't even think about it and it just works. It is hands down my favorite.
You are of course right about getting adjustable from Waidea IF they add it with stability enhancements from ground enhancement but I think they reworked the 510 already to put in the fixed pin when the adjustable failed to meet expectations due to the ground.
Between that and the added cost of fixing the ground and warranty replacements, I don't think they will switch back any time soon.
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I'm at work but have my trusty T5, I pulled out the screws and saw that the sled was going to have to come out very delicately using something I don't have here. I don't want to mare the edge of the case. I'ts back together and still works.
Wait, I have a steak knife.
Wait, I have a steak knife.
I 'mared' the edge of my chassis a little, and I didn't even manage to get the sled out
A bit annoyed about that. That was when I very first opened it, while it was still not working, and I wasn't quite sure if the sled would just pop out. I used a rubber coated screwdriver but it was still hard enough, with my wiggling to get leverage, to make a noticeable mark on the top edge of the chassis. Only visible if you look hard for it, but it is visible even with the top plate on.If I ever try it again, I assume the best way is to first loosen the 510 nut so the top plate comes away fully, then come at the sled from directly above with something that can grip both edges and pull without touching the edges of the chassis.
Bottom line is for most people, it would probably be best just to leave the existing 510, open up the top, take the 510 cap off, take the existing 510 grounding loop, remount it below the 510 retaining nut, put it back together & keep you top plate tight. Should be adequate under most circumstance & it is the easiest, cheapest solution. It is also reversible to preserve your warranty.
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