Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheBloke]

I heard you need to turn down your temp to offset the expected temp if your using it a device which isn't designed to use it in the first place because nickel and titanium have a different coefficient rating. You need to lower your temp by 90f. Also dry cotton will burn at 230c / 440f. So 90f is about 30c so take 230-30 that is what you should use or 440-90. As for your other 2 questions I don't know sorry

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He means 280°F which is already a large offset. (His Waidea can't do °C temps.) I use around 300°F on my Kangxin Mini VFs (same chip as the Waidea.) Sometimes up to 320°F.

@Angel Eyes I am not certain why you are getting singed cotton still. What atomizer? It might be an issue with static resistance in the atomizer, especially as you mentioned using a Subtank Mini which is known for not having the best connection.

If the vape is good and you don't get burnt hits when actually vaping, don't worry too much about the cotton. If 260°F or lower isn't a good enough vape, I wouldn't worry about lowering it and just keep vaping. It's the vape that matters, not the dry cotton test. And singeing is not burning.

 

[dwcraig1]

If you go without you can have 60W, and more importantly you get Nickel Purity allowing vaping of Titanium without temp offset, and Stainless Steel; the latter isn't possible on any other mod besides much more expensive Dicodes and DNA 200 chip mods. (Though you'll soon have the latter I know, so maybe not such a big deal any more.)

Or if you're the DIY type you could do what @dwcraig1 did and make your own Squonk from a standard VF clone. He did it with the Waidea, but you could do it just as well with the SXK.

Just a slight correction here, it was with a Kangxin flask, and because the chip died. I used an Evolv DNA 40. Still working good.

 

[TheBloke]

Oh yeah. Doing it with the Kangxin is even more of an achievement given the Hot Glue Jungle!

 

[SteveAdams86]

It doesn't. I meant if you were going to get a normal VF clone, the 60W SXK is the one to get rather than any other.

I'm sure you could find a modder to do the work for you if it's worth a lot to you to have one - though then you might be getting up to the cost of just buying a real Squonk

Otherwise it's 40W or nothing I think. I am not even sure if there's a 50W at all, even via Alibaba and/or in bulk: I just Googled again and the only one I see is the Yiloong, but that's 50W without TC. I think the Alibaba links will be that one, 50W with no TC.

Are you sure 50W is that important? Do you do a lot of VW? I honestly haven't noticed a vast difference having 50 or even 60W TC, I tend to keep it around 40 anyways. It's only the pre-heat for which it really applies. It might be a factor if you make big, heavy coils, but for any normal TC coil I can't see it being hugely noticeable. Especially not when it's only another 10W.

If I were to get a x2 18650 flask it would be the 60w one just to use on a variety of builds. I like to do a bit of everything really in my set ups. Got ni200 in a lemo 2, nichrome 80 in the new goblin mini, Clapton in an tobecco dripper, another dual kenthel in my velocity, dual kethal in my Goliath v2 kenthel quad vertical in my aromamizer rdta. Iv got soke titanium i look forwrd to trying also! The 40w temp control is probably the better one to get as you should be able to build to a lower resistance, even for kenthel builds. I'm hoping my friend won't mind me lending his for a while to see what its like as a try before you buy type thing. How ever a mech squonker could be equally interesting. Decisions decisions lol

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[Croak]

A DNA200 wont fit easily in a genuine Vaporflask, but there's a bit more room internally in some of the clones. And then there's the issue of the display, which would need a longer ribbon cable to even reach the top plate, and then you'd have to find some way to enlarge the display opening on the top plate, to make room for the much larger DNA200 display.

As for the Vaporflask 350J model, it is NOT a clone, for Christ's sake, it's a genuine Vaporflask, everything made in the US the same place the 1.0-2.1 versions were, but the board is Yihi, because they said feck Evolv and LiPo battery packs. They sold the DNA40 version rights to Vaporshark.

Anyway, the 350J has a titanium mode in the latest firmware releases (plus, yes, the firmware can be upgraded via USB).

 

[SteveAdams86]

Just a slight correction here, it was with a Kangxin flask, and because the chip died. I used an Evolv DNA 40. Still working good.

How hard was it to convert? Don't suppose you have any photos or anything of how you did it?

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[dwcraig1]

How hard was it to convert? Don't suppose you have any photos or anything of how you did it?

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For starters:

That's all I have.
I broke the screens off of the first two boards, it has the 3rd board. I sent the two boards to Evolv for screen replacement and they sent back two new boards.
Oh, how hard? More than I planned.

 

[TheBloke]

What tool(s) did you use to cut out the bottle window in the VF, @dwcraig1?

 

[dwcraig1]

What tool(s) did you use to cut out the bottle window in the VF, @dwcraig1?

Started with a Dremel cut off wheel, then burr in a drill, then file and sandpaper.

 

[dwcraig1]

Today I put dual Ti coils in my Nuppin and proceeded to vape my DIY squonker flask. This has been getting unused since getting my Opus 200. Now it looks as the Opus might get a break. This is my first Ti coils in the Nuppin'.

Nah, I'll use both of them.

 

[MJ.7]

sorry for the question, but the thread is 256 pages,


could anyone point me where to find (how to open the flask and take the chip out) I couldn't figure how to slide it out and didn't find pic's.

 

[TheBloke]

sorry for the question, but the thread is 256 pages,


could anyone point me where to find (how to open the flask and take the chip out) I couldn't figure how to slide it out and didn't find pic's.

Here's @WeirdWillie 's guide to dismantling the Waidea.

I don't know what flask you have, I think I remember it's the SXK? It might be a bit different to the Waidea, but most of the principles will be the same.

 

[SteveAdams86]

To squonk Vapor Flask Squonk Style 40W E-Cig TC Box Mod-57.40 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

Or not to squonk, that is the question! (In my best Shakespear impression) SXK Vapor Flask Style 60W E-Cig TC Box Mod-59.16 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

40w single battery tc & squonk VS 60w dual battery & tc. Both cost near enough the same near enough $60 / £38

Edit

Can't get links to bloody work damn it

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[MJ.7]

Here's @WeirdWillie 's guide to dismantling the Waidea.

I don't know what flask you have, I think I remember it's the SXK? It might be a bit different to the Waidea, but most of the principles will be the same.

great memory bro, yes I have two SXK a 50 & a 60W, I dropped the 60W so hard on the edge of the battery door something got wrong in it, it is only firing up to 40W now, I'm not using the 50W flask, So I am thinking I'll move the 60W board to the 50W body and keep the remains as spare parts cause I don't use both of them


" the guide is for changing the 510 which I don't need, I need to know how to slide out the whole chip with the top part, because I won't need to change it or solder it again"

I need to know how to do this:

 

[dwcraig1]

The 60 watt SXK would be my choice between the two.
Links work.

 

[TheBloke]

@MJ.7 here's another post by WW with a brief mention of removing the board: Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

 

[SteveAdams86]

The 60 watt SXK would be my choice between the two.
Links work.

I couldn't get them to load on my mobile for some reason!

I do quite fancy a squonker and the flask looks like a great form to do it in and the 60w one looks like great value, too good to ignore. But then I'll soon have a 200w mod and iv already got a rdna40. I can't see why China can't make a 60w+ flask squonker. Sigelei can get 75w from a single 18650 so I can't see why more high power variants dont exist. 60w & squonking I would snap up in a heart beat

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[TheBloke]

There's no issue with a single battery 60w - SXK have several 60W single battery clones (Zero, Nebula, rDNA).

It's just that only a couple of firms (Waidea and Yiloong) have so far been interested in making a Squonk, and both chose to use a 40W Rayn chip rather than the 50W Rayn or the 60W SXK.

No technical reason, they just thought it should match the original and/or it was a commercial decision based on the cost of the chips or preferred supplier or whatever other similar reason. Also, at the time the Squonk clones were being designed, the SXK was very new and both Yiloong and Waidea already had mods out using the 40W Rayn chips so they may have preferred to just use what they knew (and maybe already had existing stock of.)

 

[MJ.7]

@TheBloke

that is usefull thanks, I will try it when I get home.

 

[SteveAdams86]

I ordered the 40w squonker just now. The waiting begins

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