right now im using .34 build and can use all 60w, im not exactly what means in relation to how low you can build to still use 60w
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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right now im using .34 build and can use all 60w, im not exactly what means in relation to how low you can build to still use 60w
So I seemed to recall not getting 20 amps so I did a little test.
Keep in mind that mine is one of the early SXK's with the resistance off by 0.05Ω.
My load is 0.11Ω but the flask reads it @ 0.06Ω.
Taking voltage readings off the post of the atty while firing I got 1.36 volts which translates to 12.27 amps.
It may well be much higher on the newer ones with the fixed resistance readings, I'm quite sure it would be much better.
I'm going to re-visit this tomorrow and make sure there's not a bad connection at the top plate as I expected to see 17 amps.
And of coarse temp was turned off.
I couldn't wait till tomorrow, checked the top plate to battery caps and got too much voltage, will fix tomorrow and re-test.
And the next morning, cleaned the top plate and top of case..better. No problem getting 60 watts using a 0.34Ω coil (reads 0.30) (13.29 amps)
I still could only get 15.08 amps with my 0.11Ω coil (reads 0.06Ω)
Keep in mind that mine is one of the early SXK's with the resistance off by 0.05Ω.
My load is 0.11Ω but the flask reads it @ 0.06Ω.
Taking voltage readings off the post of the atty while firing I got 1.36 volts which translates to 12.27 amps.
It may well be much higher on the newer ones with the fixed resistance readings, I'm quite sure it would be much better.
I'm going to re-visit this tomorrow and make sure there's not a bad connection at the top plate as I expected to see 17 amps.
And of coarse temp was turned off.
I couldn't wait till tomorrow, checked the top plate to battery caps and got too much voltage, will fix tomorrow and re-test.
And the next morning, cleaned the top plate and top of case..better. No problem getting 60 watts using a 0.34Ω coil (reads 0.30) (13.29 amps)
I still could only get 15.08 amps with my 0.11Ω coil (reads 0.06Ω)
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Does anyone else sxk over night forget its got a tank on? Everyday iv used this thing first time I powered it up each day it asks me is it a new coil
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Just thought Id post a pic of my old kangxin flask with its new Merkava atop. Still going strong! My first TP device and still one of my favourites!!
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Yeah, my Waidea is still one of my favourites, even with the non-adjustable 510 pin. It's been dropped plenty and is quite banged up. The only thing that doesn't work anymore is the usb port. A really durable mod.
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Yeah definitely. My Waidea is now very much part of my daily use. I didn't use it for a long time, a couple or months or so. At the time I only had a couple of tanks on the go at a time, and every time I thought of using it I'd find I'd get "Check Atomizer" because the pins wouldn't touch. Then usually if I adjusted the pin on the atomizer, I got way too high resistance.
Then a month or so ago I started buying lots more tanks, and got all my good tanks built at the same time. Now I use all my mods all the time, with different flavours in each, and because I have a lot more tanks on the go I can always find one that will work with the Waidea. Right now it's my SXK Squape Rs clone which has a massive, protruding 510 pin after I replaced the stock positive pin with a countersunk M3x16mm brass screw.
I have to say that in terms of appearance and feel, I prefer it to the SXK. The matte finish just feels nicer. I also prefer the Rayn chip in this Waidea to the one in my two Kangxin Mini VFs - they both have a mild annoyance with the Kanthal/TC detection. After sleep they always revert to being in Kanthal/non-TC mode. If I just pick them up and hold fire, it will almost always fire as a VW vape. So I have a procedure now where I pick them up, then tap three or four times: once to wake up, then two or three short fires which is what it usually takes to realise the coil is TC and show 300°F instead of X volts. To be fair to them they were expecting Ni200 and therefore a quicker resistance ramp up. But I don't have to do that in my Waidea, which is always in TC mode on wake up (or restart, as it should really be called.)
So although my Waidea is now just one of many mods, I'm definitely glad I got it. Oh, and it provides a convenient home for my two button-top AW 18650s that don't fit in many of my other mods
Then a month or so ago I started buying lots more tanks, and got all my good tanks built at the same time. Now I use all my mods all the time, with different flavours in each, and because I have a lot more tanks on the go I can always find one that will work with the Waidea. Right now it's my SXK Squape Rs clone which has a massive, protruding 510 pin after I replaced the stock positive pin with a countersunk M3x16mm brass screw.
I have to say that in terms of appearance and feel, I prefer it to the SXK. The matte finish just feels nicer. I also prefer the Rayn chip in this Waidea to the one in my two Kangxin Mini VFs - they both have a mild annoyance with the Kanthal/TC detection. After sleep they always revert to being in Kanthal/non-TC mode. If I just pick them up and hold fire, it will almost always fire as a VW vape. So I have a procedure now where I pick them up, then tap three or four times: once to wake up, then two or three short fires which is what it usually takes to realise the coil is TC and show 300°F instead of X volts. To be fair to them they were expecting Ni200 and therefore a quicker resistance ramp up. But I don't have to do that in my Waidea, which is always in TC mode on wake up (or restart, as it should really be called.)
So although my Waidea is now just one of many mods, I'm definitely glad I got it. Oh, and it provides a convenient home for my two button-top AW 18650s that don't fit in many of my other mods
My vf mini does the same thing. I have it set to 30w on my subtanks though, and they can easily bracelets handle 30w so the first fire in vw mode is ok.Yeah definitely. My Waidea is now very much part of my daily use. I didn't use it for a long time, a couple or months or so. At the time I only had a couple of tanks on the go at a time, and every time I thought of using it I'd find I'd get "Check Atomizer" because the pins wouldn't touch. Then usually if I adjusted the pin on the atomizer, I got way too high resistance.
Then a month or so ago I started buying lots more tanks, and got all my good tanks built at the same time. Now I use all my mods all the time, with different flavours in each, and because I have a lot more tanks on the go I can always find one that will work with the Waidea. Right now it's my SXK Squape Rs clone which has a massive, protruding 510 pin after I replaced the stock positive pin with a countersunk M3x16mm brass screw.
I have to say that in terms of appearance and feel, I prefer it to the SXK. The matte finish just feels nicer. I also prefer the Rayn chip in this Waidea to the one in my two Kangxin Mini VFs - they both have a mild annoyance with the Kanthal/TC detection. After sleep they always revert to being in Kanthal/non-TC mode. If I just pick them up and hold fire, it will almost always fire as a VW vape. So I have a procedure now where I pick them up, then tap three or four times: once to wake up, then two or three short fires which is what it usually takes to realise the coil is TC and show 300°F instead of X volts. To be fair to them they were expecting Ni200 and therefore a quicker resistance ramp up. But I don't have to do that in my Waidea, which is always in TC mode on wake up (or restart, as it should really be called.)
So although my Waidea is now just one of many mods, I'm definitely glad I got it. Oh, and it provides a convenient home for my two button-top AW 18650s that don't fit in many of my other mods
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
I also am a Kangxin victim, the plus poles shorted so it constantly fired, and after insulating them it doesn't detect my Lemo anymore ("No Atomizer"). I read about boards having been killed by that shortage and problems with the grounding, but having no electrician's equipment, how could I find out what the problem really is?
I own the genuine $300 Vapor Flask as well as the Waidea, both in the silver color, and as far as quality, fit and finish, I cannot tell them apart, in fact I often get the two mixed up - however those pics posted on page 256 in post [HASHTAG]#5110[/HASHTAG] by dwcraig1 look like something from the dollar store! - seriously? - yikes!!
The clones have indeed turned out very well - all of them. You must be very surprised
that's funny! - the DNA 40 is patented and software encrypted, do you really think it can be cloned like an RDA? - get real
I challenge someone who has one to post a video doing a dry burn on Japanese cotton (I would expect a fire!)
the clone circuits have turned out better than expected, but they are no DNA40 - I have the pick of the litter (the Waidea) and the TC circuit works pretty well overall, but it is not up to par with my genuine Vapor Flask, by a long shot. The fit and finish are fine, but it requires periodic disconnection of the Kanger RBA in order to get the "atomizer open" message in order to prompt a new "new coil?" message so that it can take a newer (more accurate) resistance reading.
Also it does go flaky sometimes, resulting in a burned hit, and the solution is to kind of perform a "hard reset" by removing and reinserting the batteries. (and of course now you have to rewick) This is not unlike a cell phone, when it goes nuts and you have to turn it all of the way off and back on again (or remove the battery on those models that are removable)
I have more than one of these and they both exhibit the symptoms above.
So yeah, the Chinese got it 90% nailed, and in pretty much record time, but it's still no Evolv DNA40, but it isn't priced like it either!
Also it does go flaky sometimes, resulting in a burned hit, and the solution is to kind of perform a "hard reset" by removing and reinserting the batteries. (and of course now you have to rewick) This is not unlike a cell phone, when it goes nuts and you have to turn it all of the way off and back on again (or remove the battery on those models that are removable)
I have more than one of these and they both exhibit the symptoms above.
So yeah, the Chinese got it 90% nailed, and in pretty much record time, but it's still no Evolv DNA40, but it isn't priced like it either!
Help, I have two sxk boards I would like to install but need a diagram of the wiring.
Can't seem to find it on the net and thought someone here would have a copy.
Thanks in advance
Gary
Can't seem to find it on the net and thought someone here would have a copy.
Thanks in advance
Gary
I have tried reading as much as I can, but this thread is epically long!
I am in the uk and can only really get the Kangxin 40w clone. Is it generally recommended to not get this version?
Yes I know, the answer is here, but you try reading over 200 pages...
Thanks all.
I am in the uk and can only really get the Kangxin 40w clone. Is it generally recommended to not get this version?
Yes I know, the answer is here, but you try reading over 200 pages...
Thanks all.
Waidea or SXK seem to be the flasks of choice these days. Waidea if you are looking for the closest to 1:1 clone although they still have fixed 510 pins. SXK if you want higher wattages up to 60 and NP setting to adjust to different wire types. Focal sells both.
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Thanks for the quick reply. Annoyingly I cannot find Waidea over here and the only 60w clone available doesn't list the manufacturer. May consider ordering overseas, but factoring in the customs charge, it can get pricey.
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