VaporShark rDNA

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jazzvaper

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tc1

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Weird ... now it's firing more like it should. Hopefully this isn't a sign of the perceived inconsistency some people have with the chip.

Maybe it's my build. I was starting to think that it was the Atomic rda. I mean ... it IS a smaller, thicker, stainless steel (maintains more heat which could cause temperature buildup), and smaller air flow atty. But it seems odd that it's throttling a bit better all of sudden. I've had this puppy BARELY pump out any vapor. In fact, I had to replace my original nickel build because it kept "sputter firing" all of a sudden.

Odd ... just odd.
 

Woofer

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How did you fix the adjustable pin on your r91? I have an authentic and it's fine with kanthal and jumps all over with nickel

After tightening the Positive block in the addy until the insulator is starting to deform I added a little piece of brass tubing to the adjustable 510 screw.
I expect a tiny piece of plastic pen refill tube would probably work too.
Tighten this while holding the positive block on the build deck.

If you have the spring adjustable 510 that some early version 2 r91s had it is probably best to get the replacement parts and then do the above.
I have 4 'fixed' r91s coiled with Ni200 and no problems.
 

Woofer

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Weird ... now it's firing more like it should. Hopefully this isn't a sign of the perceived inconsistency some people have with the chip.

Maybe it's my build. I was starting to think that it was the Atomic rda. I mean ... it IS a smaller, thicker, stainless steel (maintains more heat which could cause temperature buildup), and smaller air flow atty. But it seems odd that it's throttling a bit better all of sudden. I've had this puppy BARELY pump out any vapor. In fact, I had to replace my original nickel build because it kept "sputter firing" all of a sudden.

Odd ... just odd.

Not odd at all, this is exactly what unstable connections do.
 

Woofer

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I took everything apart, cleaned it really well, let it dry and then put it back together really tight. It worked well after that.

Also remember that you cannot put an atty in when its at all warm and expect an accurate base resistance. Also, I've found that I usually get about a tank out of any atomizer before the nickel has worked Itself slightly loose and I need to tighten the legs of the coil. After that, it's good.

Excellent point, I have notice this too, I check the coil screws every time the deck is open.
 

Woofer

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I did try cleaning both the VS 510 and the post of the Marquis. I did notice the post on the Marquis was a little scratchy I guess you'd put it. Like it just wasn't machined well (not surprised being a clone). Could also be part of the issue.

The thing that boggles me though is I just put it on and have been running my orchid for 2 days with kanthal and I was not asked if it was a new coil. Despite my orchid being .55 ohms and the Marquis being .11

Nothing to be boggled about. The DNA40 only asks if it is uncertain about a coil change.
 

Elyptic

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Excellent point, I have notice this too, I check the coil screws every time the deck is open.

Usually, after one tank and a good tightening, I'm good to go. But every once in a while I find that's it's worked itself loose again. Long story short, every time the deck is open check the screws. Couldn't agree more.


Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
 

Elyptic

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Nothing to be boggled about. The DNA40 only asks if it is uncertain about a coil change.

I'm not sure what algorithm is used, but I've found that if the coils are very different (say nickel and kanthal) it won't ask. But two nickel builds that are similar it usually will. Or the same nickel build where something wonky is going on....


Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
 

Jbryant705

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Genesis top and no bottom? Reminds me of bottomless Dance Clubs. ;)

Not enough change for duplication of this atty. BTW you can find and will enjoy the long DT for the Origen at VaporKings.

Maybe not. Their site has really blowup since I last visited.


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That's just how Norbert works though. They don't change a ton. Just do like 2 runs then stop producing. So almost just like another run
 

tc1

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Tried a nickel build in my Plumeveil with similar results as the Atomic so I don't think it's the RDA construction itself. Tried the post screw instead of the post hole ... just about everything I can think of.

In the end, don't think it's possible to get the vape I enjoy in the 400-420 temperature range.

hMToajnm.jpg


That's a 30 gauge, 6 wrap, and 3mm coil build. Reads out to 0.14 ohms on my rDNA. At 22-40 watts in this temperature range my vape isn't warm at all, nor do I get the vapor volume I'm use to at those wattages.

I notice that as soon as I start firing, the wattage drops considerably, flashes the Temp Control screen, and continues to lower the wattage as low as 3 watts until the fire shut off triggers. Not sure if anyone elses does this? Mine does it even if I let the device sit and cool.

To ME, the difference between say 25 watts to 40 watts in temp control mode is minimal compared to the difference in standard regulated mode.

Another odd tidbit was when I put my Plumeveil on my rDNA (believe the resistance was slightly different ... 0.15 ohms) it never even asked me if it was a new atty.
 
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jazzvaper

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Tried a nickel build in my Plumeveil with similar results as the Atomic so I don't think it's the RDA construction itself. Tried the post screw instead of the post hole ... just about everything I can think of.

In the end, don't think it's possible to get the vape I enjoy in the 400-420 temperature range.

hMToajnm.jpg


That's a 30 gauge, 6 wrap, and 3mm coil build. Reads out to 0.14 ohms on my rDNA. At 22-40 watts in this temperature range my vape isn't warm at all, nor do I get the vapor volume I'm use to at those wattages.

I notice that as soon as I start firing, the wattage drops considerably, flashes the Temp Control screen, and continues to lower the wattage as low as 3 watts until the fire shut off triggers. Not sure if anyone elses does this? Mine does it even if I let the device sit and cool.

So yeah, I'm not sure it's possible to get even close to the vape experience I'm use to while using temp control in the "no cotton charring" temp range.

Another odd tidbit was when I put my Plumeveil on my rDNA (believe the resistance was slightly different ... 0.15 ohms) it never even asked me if it was a new atty.

May I suggest you ADD two (2) wraps and try again.

There is nothing "magical" about six wraps, or, a resistance of "0.14". I'd bet you get closer to the vape you desire at 0.18-0.20. You may also need slightly LESS cotton, assuming that's what the photo shows...same if it's rayon.

Let us know whether that is more satisfying.


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tc1

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May I suggest you ADD two (2) wraps and try again.

There is nothing "magical" about six wraps, or, a resistance of "0.14". I'd bet you get closer to the vape you desire at 0.18-0.20. You may also need slightly LESS cotton, assuming that's what the photo shows...same if it's rayon.

Let us know whether that is more satisfying.


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Getting ready to go back to the hospital to see my new baby boy (been there most of the day) so I will try that once I get home and report back.

I dunno, perhaps I'm experiencing a placebo effect. lol The thing is, I tend to take slower ... long ... lung hits. So that could be part of the problem. But then again, I don't get much "loud crackling" like you normally do with a wet wick, even as I initially fire. If I take a short 3-4 second pull, the vapor is rather whispy compared to what I'm use to in normal mode.

Will report back later ... and I appreciate the recommendations.
 

Jbryant705

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Getting ready to go back to the hospital to see my new baby boy (been there most of the day) so I will try that once I get home and report back.

I dunno, perhaps I'm experiencing a placebo effect. lol The thing is, I tend to take slower ... long ... lung hits. So that could be part of the problem. But then again, I don't get much "loud crackling" like you normally do with a wet wick, even as I initially fire. If I take a short 3-4 second pull, the vapor is rather whispy compared to what I'm use to in normal mode.

Will report back later ... and I appreciate the recommendations.

Congrats!!!
 

Ariel_MX

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First setup with nickel wire on the Vapor Shark + Tilemahos v1.

12 wraps of 28 AWG Nickel Ni200 around 2.5mm rod: 0.16 ohms.

Wick: CelluCotton 100% cotton.

So far it is working good, I have to play with watts and temperature settings.

Current configuration: 230°C (446°F), 17 Watts.

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Ridilen

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Finally joined everyone. Got my rDNA40 in the mail today.

Running a HOBO and Dark Horse both running quad coils around .2ohm with 26AWG Kanthal at 7 wraps. Using 30/70 juice. Running 25-35 watts.

I have to say I am impressed with it, but would also like a little more output. Only thing I can think is that I have used too much cotton.

Anyone have any suggestions.

Thx.
 
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